loriscribe

I've owned a 2005 Itasca Cambria 26 foot for ten years. I'd like to have a newer one but don't trust the quality of manufacture anymore. My Cambria has never -- NEVER -- had a quality problem. Doors and drawers function properly. All systems just keep chugging along as they should. In all that time the only thing I've had to replace is the door lock to the house door. That said, one of the minor "wishes" for a design change would be the low black/gray water connection location. The outlet that connects to your sewer hose is only about 14 inches from the ground and so doesn't have much of a slope to your sewer hose ground fixture. I've been able to work around that, but it still requires me to be on my knees for a good part of that task. Nothing has ever malfunctioned -- except the occupant occasionally. I've been informed that all manufacturers of RVs have cut back on their Quality Assurance teams in order to collect more of a profit, and that's too bad because the word is out among RVers that newer RVs will spend a great deal of time in the shop getting retrofitted for quality that should have been done at the factory. I would comment, also, that this is a motorhome that probably shouldn't house more than two or three occupants since its overall length is 26"6".

Ooops. I hit some wrong buttons. Brett and Tom, you BOTH helped me solve my dilemma. Thanks.

Many thanks, Brett -- once again -- for your expertise and clarity. Lori

At various rallies over the past few years, I've heard experts in their fields make contradictory statements about the ability and nonability of generators to charge house batteries in a motor home. Discussions with RVers haven't resolved the veracity of either side of that subject. Guidance, please, along with explanations. Thanks, Lori

I've had the Duallyvalve kit on my dual tires for years. Both valve stems can be easily accessed from the exterior. These are valve stems, not valve stem extensions. Online, search "Duallyvalve kit." You'll be happy. Lori Singels

Thanks to all. Sure wish I'd saved that FMCA article. That's what comes with "cleaning out the garage"!!! Lori

Good for you, huffypuff!!! Stay safe. Lori

I just got back home from a snowbirding trip. On the way I like to use what I read about in an old issue of the FMCA magazine as the headlight codes used by truck drivers to signal clearance to a passing truck, trouble up ahead, etc. On long trips it's helpful and just plain fun to use them but, after not having used them on a long trip for several months, many were just pfsssst -- unaccessible. The article in the FMCA magazine was very thorough, but I'm sure I read it at least four years ago and don't know how to find it again. Can anyone give me a quick review of the "codes" or the month and year of the original article in FMCA (I keep all issues)? Lori

I snowbird each year, and a friend asked me how she could winterize her gas water heater after I was describing my procedure for "winterizing" the house (specifically, draining the water lines and turning off the electric water heater). Since my water heater is inside the house, I just trip the breaker and call it good. Anybody have any methods for safely leaving an inside gas water heater for three or so months in an area that gets frequent subfreezing temps in winter? Tnx, Lori

Thanks for your prompt reply, Wolfe10. The readings previously given of 108-110 were the readings with no appliances running, fridge and heat on propane, without any outlets or overhead lights being used with the exception of the computer being plugged in and active and whatever "scavengers" that are ever-present. The volt meter had normal readings last week at a different park. My coffee pot normally uses four volts, so I had to go outside to the 20A pedestal outlet for that. If I'd used it inside, I would have had a low reading of 104.

I know I've seen several articles on this subject here in the past but can't find it when I need it. I'm parked at a Pacific Northwest RV park two blocks from the ocean. I was here also last October. Both then and now my AC volt meter which stays plugged into the outlet, is reading 108-110 consistently. Last October when I was at this same park in a different site it was the same reading and I got shrugs from the park managers. Then, as now, I switched to LP for everything. that can be switched. I'm camping with a group and many aren't aware of the dangers of low voltage. Could someone address these concerns in some detail since I'm getting blank stares when I talk about the problem?

Many thanks, StellersJay, for your detailed description. Just invaluable. I'm printing the post and keeping it close. Lori

Somewhere in my file of fabulous RV info/tips I printed out -- from this forum, I'm sure -- instructions or information on how to reestablish the air pocket of RV water heaters after dewinterization. I know the water fill is automatic, but I just can't find the tip or remember how to establish that air pocket. Maybe I'm confused with the LP air pocket. That info just went poof. Help would be appreciated. Lori

In rereading my MH's stats (just for fun, ya know), I noticed a phrase that for some reason I hadn't, before. After giving stats for GVWR and GAWR, there was the phrase "Wet weight as tested: front, 3380 pounds; rear, 8360 pounds; total, 11,740 pounds." I have been using the Michelin weight tables to determine psi for my tires based on the GAWR (front, 4600#; rear, 9450#). Have I been wrong all this time? Should I have been using the "wet weight" stats???? HELP!!!! Lori

I've got a 27' Itasca Cambria that responds to her name of "Little Ita" -- after "Itasca. Get it? I'm used to referring to her that way, but the service guys sort of look at me funny.