kaypsmith

Probably not the gauge that is bad. https://www.google.com/search?q=whow+does+a+water+temp+guage+work+in+a+mh&oq=whow+does+a+water+temp+guage+work+in+a+mh&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i10i160l3.45749j1j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 The temp sending in the block could be bad, or a wire has been cut or broken, or has a lot of crud on it inside the block. With the illustration in the above link, it is easy to test. To test the gauge, the positive and negative wires must be put in place, then short across the two wires to the sending unit, if the gauge pegs out then the gauge is probably ok. Welcome to the forum, hope this helps.

While it is new, and not yet installed, if it were I, I would take it to a professional vinyl sign shop, have it duplicated as a vinyl sign. This way you can keep the original in a safe place and then put the vinyl sticker any where on the RV that you choose as a peel and stick sign. I placed mine near the top in the rear and also at the top in front, looks very nobel in those locations like the the old HR decal. Makes an easy installation and the original will maintain its form for later reapplication.

When was the last time you purged the air tanks on the coach?

Nothing rides well without them. Please state your question!

Do you have a converter (one that only charges the battery), or an inverter (one that changes 12 volts dc to 120 ac, and charges the battery). If a converter, the convert er may be bad. If an inverter, either bad or the battery out fuses/circuit breaker may be tripped or blown.

I doubt that 33 mm lug nut covers will fit a Ford E450 lug nut. the 9/16 inch hole indicates that that the lugs are 5/8 inch lugs. Here is an e-bay link that sells covers, Amazon also has several listed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353649813958?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=353649813958&targetid=1263104805526&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012456&poi=&campaignid=10459841961&mkgroupid=123050526620&rlsatarget=pla-1263104805526&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6328464&gclid=CjwKCAjw2P-KBhByEiwADBYWCs8CAyE9XusAXloDFeCfFAHjakIYQnsumMo4piY9mOOVxlAV_NlIrhoCiWcQAvD_BwE

Yep, paintmixer works well.

A 2021 surely is still in warranty, contact the manufacturer and ask for help ASAP.

You are quite welcome for my suggestion. A very handy means of adding a handrail to the steps, is to go to a hardware or box store that sells either galvanized or black pipe, they also sell floor flanges that allow you to screw the threaded pipe into with four holes that you can use screws to attach to the floor, just a little thought will give some ideas of the needed fittings and pipe nipples to make this work out for you. I prefer black pipe because it can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and lightly sanded then sprayed with any color paint. Forgot to say earlier, that 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe works great.

Is there a switch close to the toilet that needs to be turned on? Or when you look down the toilet and see a large hole straight down with a three inch opening. If it is the latter, and most about that vintage are. If so the holding tank should be directly below the toilet. If this the case, you are probably experiencing the dreaded mound in the black tank. As stated above, does liquid drain from black tank when the large valtera valve is opened? If liquid does drain, then you will need to put as much water in the holding tank as possible, preferably hot water, add some dawn dish liquid and let stand for a while. Then while holding the flush valve open, use a stiff rod, a short piece of rebar will work fine, place the rod straight down the drain and slowly move the rod back and forth gently to move the mound. If you have a vacu flush or macerator flush system, the above instructions will not work, but if a gravity system, will work well. Good luck!

Here is one, there are many available, google "lift for rv" https://www.discovermymobility.com/store/scooter-lifts/burr/handy-lift/index.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwhaaKBhBcEiwA8acsHI0Krw3vPBQKDdKeFemYuNNui5VldV8arKno4zoolDni4oOCRp4_xBoCY8IQAvD_BwE Good luck, the link that I sent is external, there are also some that are installed inside the door.

Not required, but a good idea.

Another thought is that motorcycle tires tend to wear out faster and may be more expensive than trailer tires. I agree with skykingtcb that this may be hard on the driveline unless you are going on very short trips.

To help clarify some phrases. MiFi 5g and MiFi 4G, have nothing to do with 5 GHZ and 2.4 GHZ. 4G stands for fourth generation of transmission and 5G stands for fifth generation of transmission from the cell tower to the the phone or wifi device, it is the protocol that your device handles the incoming signal, much like english versus spanish languages.The 2.4 GHZ and 5 GHZ is speed and is controlled within the wifi device. Anyone should be able to go into settings on the wifi device and set up both settings to propogate to the other device, yes 2.4 does work better through walls than 5 GHZ. Now the other thing to set up on the MiFi device or check after insuring that both 2.4 and 5 are being used, is to insure that the SSID's and PASSWORDS are the same as on the old WiFi device, if not they will need be either changed on the new WiFi device, or you will need to change to the new ones on the thermostat. If the old MiFi is now on your thermostat will be looking at that device and connected to it is probably why it says it is connected, but the new 5G will be the only one that has connection to the internet because the old 4G has been disconnected. Hope this helps, if not please PM me for more information.

https://www.amazon.com/Dyna-200489N-26-Wiper-Arm/dp/B01FVXBQWQ/ref=asc_df_B01FVXBQWQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11340789108960649284&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012456&hvtargid=pla-569881135178&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62837065100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11340789108960649284&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012456&hvtargid=pla-569881135178 Does it look like this?

Copilot seat? LOL!👿

As jleamont asked about the coach hookup, 30 or 50 amp is a must to know how to begin your answer plus the amperage of the installed transfer switch. I used two transfer switches on my coach, one is for shore power and generator, it is a 50 amp. The other one is because I used an older MSW inverter, one that has no passthrough capabilities, it is wired to second circuit breaker panel (30 amp), this transfer switch activates when the inverter is turned on. Just saying for others to understand the reasoning for two ATS's in some, not all cases.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/91_fridgefixer.php This is what I use on mine, was easy to install and works great. The inverter style fridge that I referred to maxes out at 3.2 amps, that includes power while in defrost cycle. after start up and when the fridge has reached it's maximum cold, about four hours, will go down to least AC cycles which is about 1/2 amps and rarely increases to more than 1.2 amps. The above numbers have been verified by a volt/amp reporting meter. I am also running a mini-split air conditioner (inverter style) in my coach, have used it for two summers now, it is very low amperage consumption, when I go out in the early am it is pulling .35 amps (35/100) of an amp rarely ever see it using more than 3.5 amps.

The wonderful thing about the newer residential fridges is they don't require as much current (amperage) as the older ones. The newest versions are inverter style, which means that they are very low drain on your battery bank. I will never go back to an absorption fridge.

You've got almost everything needed to put back in place. To make the tire hoist bracket work just get a piece of channel long enough to span the hub center with enough extra length so that it doesn't fall through, this can be bolted through the elongated holes in the present one. More bolts to bolt the hoist back in place, either order a new handle or use a rod the correct diameter to fabricate another one. All you have to do is to crank the cable down to lower the tire or up to raise it.

Check to see if there any speaker control switches that may direct sound to front speakers. Or if no speakers you may want to add some. If you do add speakers, don't forget about blue tooth speakers, with a little ingenuity, they can be set up almost anywhere.

I get plenty hot water, have a six gallon tank, wife and I use a lot of it. There must be something wrong with yours, and that's why several have offered remedies. Have you tried turning the valve to bypass mode to see if it works correctly in this position?

Is it working correctly or not?

I think that your problem is the T9 needs to be programmed to correctly show usage. https://help.leanstreamrp.com/knowledge/my-hotspot-shows-that-i-have-a-20-gb-limit.-i-thought-this-was-an-unlimited-plan

The valve that you pictured is an either bypass or normal, that makes a three way, the cold water either goes into the HW heater, or it bypasses. Thanks for answering that it has never worked correctly. The previous owner probably either worked on it himself or had it worked on by someone else. The valve should have three pipes attached, one should have cold water in, one should have cold water from the in to the cold water inlet to the water heater, the other should have (in bypass mode) cold water to the hot water supply away from the hot water outlet of the hot water heater. If any pipes are incorrectly plumbed to the water heater, it will cause the same symptoms as you are having. Remember inlet and outlet could be backwards which will cause the same effects. If the cold water is hooked to the outlet and vice versa for hot. If cold water enters through the inlet then it is carried to the bottom of the tank with a pipe inside the tank which forces the hot water out of the outlet side. Since this a gas/electric heater, there should be access to the outside of the coach, usually a vented door with a funny looking thumbknob, probably turns one way to allow the door to open.