kaypsmith

Sounds as though the problem is solved to me. Good job in doing the right things. A couple of clicks instead of running the full 30 seconds to me indicates that there is probably no leak down anymore once the system has filled. Of course if only a couple clicks after sitting a week, then start up immediately will be a dream come true.

With a Freightliner chassis XC , then that is who I would call for ABS sensor info.

I would start with a good lubrication job (preferably a dry lube) on all moving parts of that assembly.

I still have the original Verizon Unlimited, it's actually on my service a total of 22 gig, or 15 per device before the 4g reverts to the socalled 3g, 3g is supposed to be 700 mbps, but mine reverts about 60. I contacted Verizon this morning to try to change over to the new plan, which is supposed to be truly unlimited on your myfi device, not your phone. But was told that they would be glad to do this if I will pay $125.00 termination fee or just wait till my contract expires 07/21/19, I opted to wait till then to save that $125.00, but I will be taking care of this on 07/22/19. Fortunately ATT/Directv has come to my rescue at home and install U-verse at a reasonable monthly charge, this service was not available at my home until 5 months ago. Speed is only 6 mbps, so I currently use load sharing/load balancing on a router which increases the speed to about 35 mbps, only thing now is it drops drastically to 6.5 after the 15g is used on the myfi device, at least I can stream in HD for about 10 days per month now.

This is what I used in my house and coach, it is a circuitbreaker/gfci breaker which installs inside the breaker box. I prefer this type because it protects against either overload or gfci problem, I simply go to my breaker boxes and reset. I also use the receptacle type gfci at an individual outlet for extra precaution with no downstream gfci protection on that receptacle. Now we also have arc fault protection for added safety against fire because of an arched circuit. Please don't be confused by what I said, Brett is correct unless you have this type setup, and if you notice, there are two resets on this device, which will let you know what was the cause of the trip, yellow/gfci is of course for a gfci test, and the black toggle is for overload and gfci reset, the unit will not function again until the reset is done, it just eliminates having to go find the gfci upstream in the event of a failure, (no more hidden trying to find its location).

Thanks for the response, I had a similar situation recently on a cold start, mine is also electric, I cleaned the actuator with contact cleaner and have not had a repeat since.

Is the accelerator, electric, manual, or air operated?

I have plenty room in the wet bay so I have no need for that item, but have installed some in the past. Before getting one of those, be sure to check the diameter of the female end flange fitting including the latch that covers he bayonet male end. The inner diameter is only 4.5 inches on the hose receptacle. Last one that I installed I had to use a different brand hose and fittings because those barbs on the end mentioned were too large to go inside. Just something to watch out for in case you do order one.

If fuel consumption has gone up, I would definitely check out the entire exhaust system, all clamps and look for any trace of black soot, it is a tell tale sign of a leak. Both times that I had a problem, fuel mileage went down before the big problem arose. First time, I heard a big bang, sounded like a large glass breakage from the rear of the coach then immediate power loss, when checking it out, the turbo pipe had actually broken into, inspection showed that there was a crack in the turbo pipe for a rather long time, and further checking revealed a small crack in the left manifold. After making those repairs all went well for two years, then the exact same scenario on the right side, only difference was the manifold on that side actually developed a gaping hole in it. In most cases someone with good hearing can actually hear these type leaks with the motor running.

I had to replace the manifold on the left side in 2015, then the right side in 2017, both times, drastically reduced power.

Yes chassis accessories include headlights, tail lights clearance lamps dash AC including the dash fan which also blows with the heat from the motor, usually also includes leveling jacks, not all coaches are wired this way for leveling jacks, but most are. All of your house appliances including lighting, camper style refrigeration, furnace blower, heat controls for hot water, water pump for fixtures, and thermostats for heat and air are used from the house batteries. Hope this helps. The readings quoted in the last replies are all favorable, just remember when checking with the motor running, or with the inverter/converter plugged into shore power, or generator, I would be expecting 13+ volts and without motor or inverter/converter then 12.8 is good readings because there is no charging going on in this condition, and the house batteries will slowly discharge due to fixtures inside the coach pulling against them. In your setup, house fixtures should only pull against house batteries, not the chassis batteries because there is solenoid type isolator that is automatically activated when the coach motor is running, this disengages when the motor stops. The combiner switch on the dash activates this same solenoid when pushed manually to give chassis batteries a boost in the event they are too weak to crank the coach, it should only be used in an emergency situation.

Probably not a bad indication. As long as they are staying north of 13 volts should be a good sign, depending on the amount of charge that the batteries already have. The fact that the batteries actually went upward to 13.42 is a good sign. When the engine is not running and nothing else on, 12.8 is to be expected. A good test now is to run as much 12 volt accessories as possible, take that 20 mile drive again then check the batteries, if over 13 at this time and engine is at idle, you should be good to go. Hope you have better sailing from now on. Kay

I have 4 12R 22.5 Toyo's on my coach now, 3 years old, no problems yet, and the ride is as good as any other that I have used in this coach.

I know it is late but on subject in case others happen to be looking for a solution. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Regulator-Two-Way-Valve-for-Two-Tanks-LP-Gas-Low-Pressure/263507664554?hash=item3d5a47deaa:g:kwAAAOSwWKtUwY1T:rk:3:pf:0

My preference, and it is only a preference, Trojan at the top of the list, and Duracell at the bottom. But if you got 11 years out of the US Battery, I would opt for that one, kindly tells its own story.

Great work! I would love to play the violin, and thought that is what the score was written for, most renditions were in 3/4 not 12/8, that's what makes it interesting to me. I played the trumpet in younger year then moved to the organ.

That was a fantastic game for me. LOL

All's well that ends well, glad that you have it going to your satisfaction. That's an interesting piece of music by Stravinsky, do you play it, and on what instrument?

I have used three of the auto changeover regulators and paid big money for the last two, never again. Doesn't take two minutes to change between the tanks with opd anyway. Here is a nice alternative. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Two-Way-Valve-Tee-for-Two-Tanks-LP-Gas-Manual-Changeover/163358103865?hash=item2608e6d939:g:LVAAAOSwiylXBFf~:sc:USPSFirstClass!35023!US!-1:rk:25:pf:0

Here is video of the Mercedes Sprinter location. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2011_Mercedes-Benz_Sprinter_2500_3.0L_V6_Turbo_Diesel_Standard_Passenger_Van/fuse_interior/replace

We really need more info on the vehicle, obviously sprinters were made by Dodge and Mercedes, so which one and what year? Your first post was about an open neutral in a CG with much electronic damage, so is this a continuation of the same problem, or a new one. As Bill said it is probably a fuse so you will need to find the fuse box for the chassis, not the conversion for this. A quick google search on Sprinter shows that is most likely under the dash by the drivers foot if Dodge, I didn't find location for Mercedes, but the owners manual should point that out for you. But as stated with more info, someone here can probably point you in the right direction.

Could possibly, I wasn't able to find one when I was checking the coach out, but that was my first recommendation to change before changing the alternator if there was one.

Actually, I have been in contact with the family just today. The Isolater on this coach is not a diode based one. It is a pretty unique control board that utilizes the same solenoid that engages to combine battery sets, chassis and house when you push the button for start assist. The alternator is just not charging the chassis batteries while the motor is running, the new inverter/converter is charging both sets while on shore power just fine. The alternator seems to only be charging to a 12.3 while the motor is running, the warning light comes on, on the dash while traveling. Yes Richard, I actually engage a solenoid to charge the house batteries on my coach while driving, I prefer the k.i.s.s. method also, I'm fortunate that my MCI is equipped with a battery equalizer which makes pulling from one battery on the 24 volt system not stressful on the other battery. I know many older conversions that actually run a 12 volt alternator also just for the purpose of charging the house batteries while traveling.

Most truck stops, have a vast array of those type splitters, so does Walmart stores and auto part stores.

If you read the details, your existing does not change, you must go to prepaid and direct pay to get the uncapped deal. Our present plans are post paid, just think how many billions of $ this will generate for the company by going to prepaid and also auto pay by ach instead of billing.