jjgnn@yahoo.com

I would love to trade you my 2003 Country Coach, but if I were you, I would keep what you have - that is an excellent coach. If the campgrounds fuss about the year, lie to them. If they catch you, say it was re-manufactured in (whatever date) so is like new. If your coach is well maintained, and I know it is from your posts, the issue will never come up, their "rules" will be satisfied. I am normally painfully honest, but stupid rules press me a bit. Do you think they would turn away a re -manufactured 1950 Airstream, polished all over, new tires, etc. Of course not. Or, if they did, they are too stupid to be my neighbor in any case. ;*)

This discussion went on at length at the Country Coach forum, and the short version: To eliminate chalking, making streaks down the side, an easy-cheap way to stop it, use Mop and Glow on top. Mine has been streak free for nearly a year. I applied it with a sponge. Use rubber gloves. A more permanent solution (sounds like your situation) Bus Coat (Kote?) was the major choice.

I checked your earlier post, and did not see the mileage or age of the tire. I realize that the loss of air through the valve extension likely caused all this adventure, but still it is nice to know all the particulars. I check my tires monthly, hoping to catch a slow leak or some other problem. I was in Phoenix, and the day before I left for Quartzite (a year or so ago) I checked my tires, they were fine. I got up that morning to go with my group, checked the tires again even though I had checked them the day before and had not rolled even one inch, and found a flat due to a cracked solid metal valve extension. For once my paranoia paid off, or I would have been in the same situation you found yourself. My tires (and presumably valve stems) were six years old at the time, about 40,000 miles. Passenger side inside dual. I got to Q a day late, but still did not have to deal with a flat on the road.

I use double stick tape, works great. In a few years there may be a fading of the paint, but since I plan to keep my FMCA membership as long as I own the coach (or any RV for that matter) I see no harm in that. Double stick tape stickum comes off readily with Goo-Gone or (preferably) 3M adhesive remover with no harmful effects.

You need to print out an owner's manual from the manufacturer. There is a fuse inline with the power to the commode, and that needs to be working. On mine, if I push both buttons twice, it will open the valve and leave it open, for cleaning, whatever. In the next step, pushing only the large flush button returns it to "normal" operation. On the lower right hand side of the bowl (facing the toilet) there is a switch that changes modes of the flush. There is a "residential" mode, that will open the valve and flush water into the bowl, then after a few seconds, close the valve and run enough water in to leave about 3" of water standing. The other switch setting is a "water saver" setting that only opens the valve and runs rinse water as long as the button is pushed. Release the button, and the valve closes and water flush stops. The "brain" may be confused on yours. Steps I would try: 1. Push the large button once and see if it resets. 2. Push both buttons twice in succession, see if it stays open. 3. Cycle the switch on the back of the commode (behind on the right side). Try it one way then the other. That is all I can suggest for now, after dealing with the commode for nearly two years. The seal and valve assembly is easily changed out, with complete instructions included with the kit. About $200 when that becomes necessary. If I had a choice I would probably get a foot operated valve type of commode, with a china bowl and the quality this unit has. Foot operated would be quieter, use no electricity except to move water into the bowl, and if used carefully would probably be less maintenance. Replacing the electric mechanism once in seven years is not a real bad problem, but still.......... If these steps do not help, email me at jjgnn(at)Yahoo(dot)com and I will dig my manual out.

In addition to the excellent above suggestions, I put a flat stopper on top of my shower drain. I am not sure if there is a "P" trap in the drain, but the flat "stopper" (just a flat heavy piece of rubber that fits the drain grid) cured my gray tank smell when traveling.

If I was going to do that, I would I would consider putting in a floor heating system. I do not know if wood laminate would be compatible with a heating system, but I would consider it. I love spending other people's money ;*) Jack Nichols, 2003 Country Coach, no heated floors.

My tires were original equipment on my 2003 Coach, and I asked Les Schwab in Oakridge, Oregon, to bid on new ones - he beat all prices I had been given the past three months, and stated they would be near new. I think they were still warm from the mold - I do know they stunk like raw rubber for months. They were about six weeks old. Besides they sold my old tires for me and gave me a check for $300.

"I'm not an expert in this area, but..." Should have left it at that. It works, quite well, with no modification of a popular integrated system. The physics and radio theory it is based on is proven and sound, since the 1920s. Jack Nichols KA5IFU 2003 Country Coach Intrigue

Re: TomandMark Remember, everyone brings joy into your life = some by coming in, some by leaving. I can't understand why some people go where they are not wanted, and do not want to be there. Seems insane to me.

My 2003 Country Coach does the same. The 1/2 inch drain line exits the tank, through a 90 degree petcock fitting through the floor of the bay. Just barely drips. When I recently drained the tank I ran most of the fresh water through the pump into the shower and drains. Before I start fiddling with it I would like to know the likely cause. No reason to reinvent the wheel if we do not have to.

Double stick tape works for me, through single digit temps, rain, snow, and Texas heat. I put it behind the ladder, so it is protected, but visible.

Looking at it from the cat's point of view, they are not pets - you are staff, there to do their bidding.

This may be a subject for "goofus trick of the day," but when I had a bad air whistle, I put up with it for two days, then discovered I had not properly latched the third window back on the passenger side. Driving motion cracked it open a little at a time, then it finally got bad enough and it was obvious. Normally I keep that blind closed, or I would have found it sooner. I like the blue tape idea, simple and direct. Thanks, Brett.

I once did a "wattage upgrade" in a tail light, and managed to partially melt the plastic lens - more watts, more heat. Just something else to watch out for. If your wife does not drive with her foot on the brake all the time, then higher wattage brake lights may not melt the plastic lens. Don't ask me how I know. The higher wattage may have been fine for the intermittent duty of a "normal" brake light application.

Thank you, Herman. I have had so much help from folks on these forums. I am happy to contribute where I can. I have found people on these forums very helpful, and it lessens the anxiety of buying and owning one of these huge, expensive, complicated machines. I wish I had done it ten years ago. Mike, you will LOVE that '07 Affinity. The prices are getting right, too. Jack Nichols, 2003 Country Coach Intrigue

My Hurricane (Aqua-Hot cousin, same basic mechanism, I think) may be enough different that I cannot say you are being "sold," so I can only give my experience. The Hurricane uses the engine radiator header tank as the header tank for the hydronic heater boiler, so acts as an engine pre-heat when used. It also has a water heat exchange loop through the water heater tank, so will keep that warm when it is used. Some units have an electric element, so that may be where the "instant" hot water comes from, not on my unit. There is a thermostat in the water bay that will turn the Hurricane on when it senses freezing, and that is a comforting thing to have. I have a problem with "instant" -- I think of instant as one of the dedicated little heaters under a kitchen sink, and when you press the valve, HOT water comes out. On my setup, you have to wait for cold water to clear the line before hot water is available, just like a little house. The Aqua Hot may (or may not) address that. Not a big deal, just trying to clarify. I would want him to demonstrate just what he is talking about, so I would know what I was buying. I doubt it would have any bearing on my decision to buy, one way or the other. I rarely use the Hurricane, because I try to use electric space heaters where I am hooked up. That works for me because the electricity costs me nothing -- might be a different matter if I was spinning a meter on my nickel. When using electric heaters only, of course the Hurricane does not have an input, because it is not used. An electric element in my water heater gives me a nice shower when I am on shore power, if I do not linger too long. (If more than one person was using the shower, I would have to fire up the propane water heater, then will not run out of hot water until I run out of propane.) That sentence had nothing to do with your question, just a little info to let you know how I use it. When I do use the hydronic unit, it works great to heat the coach, keep the engine radiator water warm, warm the water bay area, if needed, and keeps the domestic water heater warm. As I said earlier, I would not have a coach without a hydronic heating system, and my next coach will also have the heated floors that are available. I know the hydronic heaters are an expensive option, if ordering new. Typically a used coach does not get full price for extra features, so it may be a real bargain in that case. Hope this helps. Ask if you want any more of my limited experience.

I have it in my 2003 Country Coach, and love it. I would not have a coach without it. I just serviced it myself and it took maybe 30 minutes, and it is good for another 1,000 hours. More information here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Country-Coach-Owners/ http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HydronicRVHeating/ Jack Nichols 2003 Country Coach Intrigue

I wonder if you had any roast seagulls with that antenna setup and 1,000 watts? ;*) Great example of practical antenna work. Jack

Thank you for that. My father was a dentist and facial surgeon aboard a hospital ship in the pacific, and I wish I still had his letters. I wish the present generation could get a feel for what they went through, and what the people waiting for them at home went through. Young folks do not grasp that we did not really know if we were going to win that one, and when history is viewed from that viewpoint, it gets scary for all involved. Thank God for all the great people that have fought for my loved country.

Last year I bought a 2003 Country Coach Intrigue, and it suits me to a "T." I have been very impressed with the engineering, fit and finish, and though I do not have experience with other RVs (this is my first) I could not ask for more. Only trouble is, when I walk up to it, I always think some rich dude must live there. (I am not). Country Coach supplies two huge notebooks with systems information, schematics, everything you need to know what you are doing. Anyway, to your question. Country Coach, like most RV builders, is having trouble, and popular opinion is they will close their doors soon. I have no opinion or knowledge about it, but feel it is probably true. If you are uncomfortable owning an "orphan" coach, with lack of warranty, then you may want to consider that. (Mine was out of warranty, so that was not a factor for me). Almost any coach builder these days is possibly in the same shape. Subsystems of all RVs are somewhat "generic" - Cummins engines, Allison Transmissions, brake and axle sub-assemblies, refrigerators and other stuff, and specialists are available to deal with any problem you might have. I had some work done by a Country Coach technician that had been laid off from the factories, and most good technicians can work through issues you might have. Look here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Country-Coach-Owners/ for some insights. You will see some issues about systems, but I think many of the problems they have are common to any RV make and model, and if you read between the lines you might see that some cause their own problems by not understanding how the systems work. I did that myself on a few occasions. Hope this helps. If you buy a Country Coach I hope your experience is as good as mine has been.

True, it might work fine. What I know of antenna theory, and what Wayne pointed out, means some goofy things work, while a fully engineered system may not work. The small amount of power in CB systems requires a well balanced system to operate at its maximum. Optimum operation is not necessary to do the job, however. A SWR reading of three to one is hard to distinguish from a SWR reading of 1 to 1, a perfect match. As a hobbyist I want to tweak the system to the max, just to see if I can. When I key up you will hear a fairly quiet background and intelligible, well modulated signal. Getting that last 5% of signal takes instruments to measure, and way more trouble than most people want to fool with. I can hear people saying "Woah, man, get a life." ;*) For a purely functional system maybe all that is needed is a coat hanger stuck in the back of the radio, key the mike, contact someone 500 yards away, (or something that works) and be happy. So, we are talking about two different things here. I cannot argue with your statement that it works or may work.

Firestick has good engineering, and their fiberglass antennas are a mainstay in many places - BUT - if the fiberglass whips are whacked on limbs, rocks, etc, they will fatigue and break. I have seen more than ten do that. Admiitedly, those failures probably would have done in most any antenna except the Mayberry Special (whoosh, whoosh) 102" whip. The long whips are not real handy to deal with, so I chose a base loaded 4' whip (Radio Shack) ten years ago that has done well. Firestick has a good product, within its limits. Good website and help there.

Sorry, off topic, but Wayne, your inbox is full. Got my HAM call, KA5UFU in 1974 I think.

Herman, yes a SWR meter is what I was referring to. I have had several through the years, including a beautiful Diowa (sp?) twin needle one I had for my base station, and still the only one I need is that beat up 30 year old meter with a scratched and cracked face. It does not get me the respect of the pretty one, but works fine. The pretty one is like a trophy wife that cannot cook that well, and the old one is a trusted friend that does it all. I digress. Again. The configuration of your antenna suggests it may have a counterpoise built into it, exactly what you need for working off a nonreflective (electronically reflective) surface, but the only way I would be comfortable saying one way or the other is to find a manufacturers name on it and get into a catalog. Lots of advertising monkey business going on in antennas, depending on the "theory" part of the physics to sell something complicated. Tear it apart, and you may find rejected lamp zip cord cut to approximate length, and covered with a pretty exterior. See "Trophy Wife" comment above. It may work as well as a titanium, iridium and gold plated one, or not. If it works, as Wayne commented, it does not matter. Waynes explination of "Theory" is right on. That is part of the fun of amateur radio. Back in the 1960s I was one of six licensed CB operators in Austin, Texas (KQT3538), and had an old HAM (and electrical engineer, Army signal corps) help me understand antenna theory. He was a hoot, loading up drainpipes and aluminum deck chairs for antennas. I am sure the radiation from all his equipment sterilized most of his city block - he had a garage full of high power ex-military stuff. Lights would dim in town when he really cranked it up. I do not personally know Mr. Culver, but have heard his name forever, and he is one of the mainstays in Plainview. I moved away in the mid 1950's, called away by the bright lights and big city (and several trophy wives - what was I thinking?) and will probably move back there when I get off the road. Old friends and a small town are precious to me. There will be a HAM group, called a HamFest, in Quartzite in January, and anyone interested in amateur radio is invited. I may get the itch to get involved in it again. At my age a learning curve is a real imposition on my retirement, and I would have to start all over again, so maybe not. Another thought on high powered CB linear amplifiers - could it be that they are over compensating for short comings in other areas?