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audiophilepj

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  1. One year later.... and I still haven't solved my problems. Not enjoying my entire camper packed with ice chests! My local RV repair shop doesn't allow me to drop off just the camper. They need it on my truck (safety/stability), so I would be without transportation while they fixed it. So I planned on alternative method of transportation for a week, called up Jerry's RV to schedule an appt. They are booked out for a month! I was leaning on replacing the cooling unit, but I wanted to confirm the CU was bad. I followed Dometics instructions: ---------- COOLING UNIT To check the cooling unit, first verify the AC heating element is good. Then place approximately one gallon of water inside the refrigerator and place a thermometer in one of the containers of water. Supply 115 volts direct to the AC heating element and operate for at least 12 hours. Check the temperature on the thermometer. It should be at 45 degrees or lower depending on test conditions. ---------- After 24 hours, in hot 75 degree day temp, this morning the freezer is -10 degrees, and the refrigerator is 30 degrees. So I know for sure the cooling unit is working. My next piece of hardware to troubleshoot is the thermostat. I still can't find instructions on how to test the thermostat. This is the thermostat. I'm thinking I will remove the thermostat and check any changes of resistance when temp changes. I can find instructions on testing a thermistor, but not thermostat. Any ideas regarding the themostat? Phil
  2. I stopped by Jerry's RV on my way home to purchase a new regulator. After I told my story to Jim, he said it might not be the regulator. He recommended that I bring in the camper and have them test the pressure with a manometer. He said I could have cranked up the pressure so much that the 'low' setting is now over heating and thus cooling the fridge. He said my type of frig has a low and high burner settings. High for cooling, and low during idle. He thinks the idle setting is cracked way up. I guess I'll need to take the camper down to the shop after all. I wonder if I can find info regarding testing the thermostat. Maybe with a multimeter.... I'll be back. Phil
  3. Well....I ran the refig all night off LP. Woke up excited to check the temp, in the refrig was 24 degrees! Success! However, the thermostat (off, 3, 5, 7, max) was set to 5. So I decided to adjust it back out a little, 5 turns out. Today's outdoor high temp was around 80 degrees. When I got home and checked the temp, 70 degrees in frig. Well f&*% me sideways. So I adjusted it back in a little and it's cooling down again. I think I'm going to take wolfe10's advise and buy a new regulator. I'm not 100% clear how regulators work, but info from desertdeals69, there are adjustable regulators, or water column regulators. I'm guessing water column are newer technology. Mine in probably from 92'. I'll pick up a new one tomorrow. A $20 regulator makes me a lot happier then a new refrigerator! Thanks again for your info and support! Phil
  4. Thanks for the quick responses. I have (attempted to) attach some pictures of what I am battling. I think the problem is the regulator. I went to purchase a new regulator/hose from my local RV shop. The gentlemen asked if my regulator was adjustable, I didn't think it was, but I was wrong. I popped off a white cap and revealed a red threaded plastic adjustable screw. The plastic piece was barely started in the threads. I screwed the piece in to test the amount of adjustable space. The screw adjusted in almost 1 1/2 inches! The red piece moves VERY easily, so easy that I believe it could have vibrated lose. I unscrewed the red piece back to where it was when I found it. I turned on the gas and began adjusting in the threads while watching the size of the flame. What a difference! I couldn't even hear the propane burning where it was previously at. As I screwed it in, I could hear the propane burner start the roar. Now I'm not sure where to adjust it to. I think I can take the tank in and have it adjusted at my RV shop. I read somewhere that the pressure should be at 11 inches of water column. I'll report back with my results. Thanks again for your help and ideas. Phil
  5. audiophilepj

    Dometic 2310

    My troublesome refrigerator :)
  6. Hey guys, I've been searching around the web for days looking for info regarding my camper frig problems. Here we go... My RM2310 is not a 3-way, it's only a 2-way,110 and LP only. I've been using it for 5 years without any problems. Last weekend I started my trip from home with a cold frig running from 110. I switched to LP and saw my blue flame burning. I set the stat to max. The blue flame was always lit and burning, but the fridge will not stay cold! It was a hot 90 degree day, and the frig was 70 degrees inside. No ammonia smell, no yellowish dust. The unit is very clean. It's in a 1992 Pasttime Camper, but stored inside, hardly used from 1992-2008. The door seals are in good condition. Ventilation has never changed, and has lots of space. My propane tank is full. I've tried a different tank, same results. One thing I would like to test is the regulator. I've never been able to see a difference in flame. Even when the thermostat is on "Max", the blue flame is the same. I read somewhere that the flame doesn't get bigger, only burns longer. The burner jet, burner and flue are very clean. I'll pull off the burner jet and inspect inside of it tonight. Can I rule out the thermostat since it works on 110? If not, how do I test the thermostat? Could it be the switch? I've never been happy with the feel of the switch. It is slow and muddy feeling. It's not a clean click, but a slide and stop... Hard to explain. The switch has play in it. It does shut off the gas when I move to electric, and it works when on electric, so I guess it's working. Is that all it does? Nothing with the electric power and thermostat? When I feel the temp of the electric burner vs the gas burner, they feel about the same temp, hot enough to touch the metal cover, but can't keep my hand on for long (too hot). Is it true that when running on propane, no electricity is required? No 12v? I don't see any 12v cables running to the frig. Does the cut-off valve cut off 100% of the propane? I appreciate anyone's help. Another few days of troubleshooting... and I might give in and take it to a shop. Thanks, Phil
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