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  1. Thanks TB.....slowly but surely getting a clearer picture of the basic mh circuitry. Gene
  2. That's what I want my 08 Safari to see and use, only 30a. The reason for the question is I'm working with the stuff I already have..... a 50a box and 3 wire cable. I have no intention of trying to actually use 50a, just the box. Do you think a jumper wire is even necessary? I apologize to Don for high jacking this thread, my typing got ahead of my brain.
  3. I already have a 50a box and 3 wire 30a cable. I only plan on using 30a, and my question then is how to wire to the 4 recepticle posts with my 3 wire cable. I understand green is ground, white is neutral, and black would go to one of the 2 posts on the 50a recepticle. Would this work, or do I need to add another jumper wire to the other hot post?
  4. I would drive around some with that black water mixture and slosh it around the tank probably do the same for the gray tank to keep the sensors clean. I would also spray insecticide/repellant around the tires and any thing that touches the ground...keep those fireants palmetto bugs and picnic ants at bay. In fact down South we spray at every camp site before we do anything else. Walmart has a clear no odor repellant that works good.
  5. Problem fixed! Bad wire from s/w to the motor, replaced it everything works good.
  6. Here is a pic of the solenoid and I think it also maybe a relay. The 2 spades treminals go the inside panel in/out s/w wiring.
  7. There are 3 wires to the momentary rocker s/w. In out and power. I have removed the s/w and ohm checked it to verify continuity and no continuity depending on which side is actuated, and the s/w checks OK. I even used a new s/w and continued to get the same bad system operation. The clicking comes from the elec "box" on top of the motor/pump. I thought it was the problem so I tracked down its origin, its a solenoid made by Trombetta. I received a replacement changed it out ...same problem. That's when I replaced the actuating s/w with a new one...same problem. The 12v test light shows 12v on BOTH leads to the pump/motor when the s/w is pushed to one side, and that's why the solenoid is clicking. When you rock the s/w over to the other side it properly shows 12v on one lead to the motor and no volts on the other lead which allows the motor to operate in one direction. Reverse that lead at the motor and the pump will run in the other direction. In practice then, I can move the slide in and out by moving the one wire from one side of the motor terminal to the other. As I said before I ohm tested the s/w and it checks out good I even replaced it with a new one....no help. I'm at a loss when to go next other than the wires themselves which are hidden in a maze of conduits. I will string some wires out the MH door from the s/w to the solenoid (by passing all internal wiring) and see what happens....this thing defies all logic and is kicking my buttttt!!!!
  8. Slide motor/pump is a reversable 12v motor on an 08 Safari. If you push the out rocker s/w it goes out ok. If you push the rocker s/w to the "in" side it doesn't move AND you can hear the solenoid click. Go to the pump and reverse the leads and the slide comes in. I put a 12v test light on the leads at the pump and it shows 12v on just one lead and no power on the other lead when you push "in". Push "out" and it shows 12v on BOTH leads. I pulled the inside rocker s/w and tested it for continuity and it shows continuity for each side of the s/w and open for each non selected side. To be sure I put in another new on/off/on s/w and get the same results. I also replaced the HD solenoid Anyone got any ideas?
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