RTinVa

Ok, the latest is that I spoke to the manufacturer of the inverter. I did try a force reset by disconnecting the batteries, wait 30 minutes and hook the battery power back up. Unfortunately this did not fix the problem. After speaking with the manufacturer it appears that the circuitry is bad in the inverter. I have received additional information that the inverter has a 2 year warranty however the site states 1 year. I am considering sending the inverter to the manufacturer for repair. I believe this would be the best solution. Now if I can figure out how to remove the front of the inverter to disconnect the cables. The rear cables are easily removed. Thank you all for your help!

I will look for a fuse on the inverter. There is what appears to be a reset button but I will check for a fuse as well.

Looks like I am going to pull the fridge unless Thor has a better suggestion. There is a converter in the coach and also an inverter. If I pull the shore power and leave the engine off, turn on the inverter at the small (pictured) panel and scroll with the select button before it goes into alarm (Code E05), the output and input levels are indicating 0.00. I can hear the converter kick on when I plug into shore power. It is located in another basement area in the rear. Then the fridge works. If I disconnect the shore power and start the gen the fridge works. As indicated earlier in my posts previous trips I would start the engine and then hit the green button to "start" the inverter and the fridge would be on as I travel down the road. If I recall correctly I was told when I bought the unit that the coach had the battery capacity to run the fridge for 2 days without shore power. I cannot thank you all enough for your help. Can't wait to get to the bottom of this problem. How I hate electrical issues. Usually it is something simple that I miss. Hoping this is a simple fix.

The 35SD has 2 6 volts batteries that are inline for the +12 volts. They have been checked and are fine. The refrigerator is a residential Whirlpool fridge. I did find the rear A/C unit turned on and thought I had found the issue of overload but when I turned it off it made no difference. I put a call into Thor and left my name and number but did not get a return call. I will try them again tomorrow. I also checked the ground fault plug in the bathroom which works fine. I crawled under the RV and checked the visible wires of which one was the ground for the inverter which is tight. Still looking and I will let you know if I find out what the cause it. This RV only has 6k miles and everything else is working without any issues. Thank you all again for your recommendations and assistance.

No outside hatch to access fridge plug. We are home now so tomorrow I will see what I can find. I will check all the grounds. The inverter works when on shore power and generator. I can hear it running and it the power panel shows green. Brett, Previous to this last trip when I start the engine and turn the power inverter switch on it would power the fridge as I traveled down the road. It was only when I went to start this last trip last week that I experienced any problems.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions. The inverter shows over 13 volts when powered to shore power. It also so when not powered by shore power. I checked the batteries for water and they are fine. I used a voltage tester and found each (2)6 volt battery providing 6.75 volts when not on shore power. So it appears the batteries are fine, the shore power works fine, the generator works fine, it is only when the engine is running and the inverter is turned on that the red light is lit and the E05 code shows with an alarm and the refrigerator is not receiving any power. Now I am focused on the inverter. Although a 2017 model, it may be that the inverter is not providing the power necessary when the engine is running. I will call Thor and see what recommendations they have. Hopefully it is not to bring it in to the dealer. Thank you all for your recommendations. I will modify my signature ot reflect the coach for future reference. (Thank you Wildebill308) I will also unplug the fridge tomorrow to see what the plugs show on voltage but do not suspect that is an issue. (Have to test to be sure). Hopefully I do not have to pull the fridge out to do this but it appears I will.

I appreciate all the advice and I will do as suggested. One last question, am I suppose to leave the inverter on when on shore power? I get a green light and good readings when hooked to shore power and inverter turned on but a red light, code, and alarm when not connected to shore power. I always have the inverter off when I am connected to shore power. If I leave the inverter on when connected to shore power would this charge the batteries or does the shore power charge the batteries with the inverter off when connected to shore power? Did I run the batteries down when shore power is connected because I always have it off? I have 50 amp at my home in my building and always leave the inverter off there as well. I am thinking it may be the batteries or water level in the batteries. I have 2 under the stairs. I will check the water level and also do a check with the volt meter. Thank you all for your help.

I am at a loss at this point. My wife and I have 3 months on the road scheduled and I would prefer to avoid the dealer at all costs. This is the first time we have not had the ability to have power to the refrigerator when on the road by simply turning on the inverter. The coach currently has 6k miles on it and we bought it with 3k miles. I am planning a trip to Florida at the end of December and would rather not have to run the generator to operate the refrigerator as you can understand. Open to any further suggestions. Thank you again. Rich

Found the inverter in an underneath basement storage area. Checked the reset button which was not "kicked". Unplugged the shore power and turn on the inverter and the fridge did not turn on as it always did. Started the engine and again turned on the inverter and still the fridge does not come on. In both instances the inverter control panel codes "E05". I made sure nothing else was on but one led interior light and the propane for heat.

When I look the Xantrex Pro XM1800 up online it shows an inverter yet the fuse panel breaker list shows a converter (on a 15amp breaker). Sorry if this all doesn't make sense but I am not good at all with electronics.

Based on my breaker panel I have a converter and not an inverter. Not familiar with a converter or if there is a reset for it. I do have a transfer switch in the basement area but it doesn't have any outside switches and looks to be opened only by a professional.

I have checked the breakers which all are on and all fuses are good.

It shows 13.6 volts before going into alarm with a code "E05". It also sounds an alarm when coding.

This the only thing I can see and is what has a code of E05 when turned on and without shore power. Hope this helps.

It is a residential refrigerator. Electric only. Thank you.

I currently own a 2017 Thor 35SD and when I attempt to disconnect the shore power and use the inverter it throws a code E05. As a result the refrigerator does not work even with the motor running. I have looked online and the articles refer to a converter rather than an inverter. Can anyone assist in finding the problem or suggest where I might be able to find an inverter so I can reset it? I am currently on the road and have looked under the bed and in the bins to no avail. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I had a 2014 Fleetwood and had the one door just below the driver seat open a few times. Although secure when sitting still, I suppose the movement would allow the latch to disengage. As a result I took the silver plate off on the inside of the door and turned the screw which adjusts the catch out further. Never had any problems since then. I would post pictures but no longer own that coach. Hope you are able to adjust your catch.

My wife and I are downsizing possibly this week from our 2014 Fleetwood Expedition 38B to a 2017 Thor 35SB Super C. The Fleetwood has been very good to us but for a number of reasons I have decided the Super C will be more beneficial for us. I read the issues expressed in a previous post regarding a 2015 with the diesel. It appears the fit and finishes in the 2017 has improved from the Thor products I have seen in the past from a few to five years ago. The 2017 is a Ford 550 frame with the 6.7 diesel. We hope we are making a positive move and hope we are satisfied for years to come with the 35SD. Any thought or comments are very much appreciated.

I adjusted the driver side so it will reach further to the side. It does not lay horizontal to the ground when off but it is something I will appreciate next rain. It is not raised to a point where it looks like it is out of place so I guess that will be good enough. Thank you for the links. I will save them to my favorites as well for the future. As usual you are always a big help.

I have not moved the arm on the post. Currently both are horizontal to the ground when at the lowest point. I was hoping to adjust the swing without having the driver side up at an angle when in the off position. If needed I will remove the arm and move it in the direction needed. I was hoping I could modify it like I have seen on school buses where the blade adjusts to be parallel to the windshield frame when in the most up-right position. Wasn't sure if there was a different arm I could acquire to have this happen. I might check with Fleetwood but I will take your advice and move the arm on the post. Am I understanding your recommendation correctly? Thank you.

I own a 2014 Fleetwood Expedition 38B. When the wiper blades are turned on the blade on the driver side doesn't clear far enough to the left when sitting in the driver seat. Is there a way to adjust or modify the sweep so it clears more of the windshield? Any advise or assistance is greatly appreciated.

Wow! Amazed at the comments regarding cost. I never felt KOAs were that costly. We stay in KOAs as much as possible for the consistency in the amenities. I will do the research however to include looking at the campground from the air with satellite imagery just to be sure it has the right size spacing between sites before I make the reservations. It has been years since I have done anything but local trips on the east coast and I hope to stretch the coach out on longer trips next year once retired. Overall, I have seen KOAs as campgrounds I can count on as clean and friendly. The reviews if current so far have been reliable and accurate regarding both positive and negative and I have stayed at both in a pinch. My family and I will continue staying at KOAs but I also agree that not to expand to other private owned campgrounds would be a mistake. We hope to explore this option more in the future as well.

Wolfe10, 42,400 on the GCWR and within the specs on towing capacity. The Fleetwood has the coach listed as 32,400 GVWR. Based on the numbers I am not seeing any concerns. The truck comes in at 5250 curb weight. I see Roadmaster or Blue Ox are recommended often. Thank you for your recommendations and if I am missing something please correct me.

I am currently driving a Fleetwood 38b 360hp diesel pusher. My wife and I usually tow the 2010 TSX on our Kar Kaddy SS. I recently bought a 2015 Ram Laramie Crew Cab short bed 4x4 and would like to tow 4 down but have no experience with this type of towing. Although I have enjoyed the dolly experience and have no complaints I am anxious to have the option of bringing the truck on long trips. Please provide your recommendations for equipment based on experience. I do not want to buy one then wish I had bought another. It appears the total cost will be a estimated 3k not including installation. Thank you in advance for any advice, experiences and recommendations.