F355197

On ours the spray head is at the opposite end of the tank from the dump valves. The panel over this end of the waste tanks has two latches underneath. I don't know that yours is the same but it should be similar.

I had a similar problem with our Exec. I removed the spray head and cleaned the holes with a thin wire. With spray head removed I verified flow before re-installing. It has worked fine since.

We purchased a 40' 1998 Beaver Contessa in late 2004 and thought it was well built. We sold it in 2010. Ours was on a Magnum chassis with a Cat 3126, 330 HP engine. The chassis was solid and handled very well ; however the downside was that chassis has a rear radiator and is subject to fouling. The radiator and the combustion air cooler (CAC) are sandwiched together with about a 2-1/2" space between them. The fan shroud raps around the edges to cover that gap. The OEM arrangement for the crankcase breather is a hose routed straight down towards the ground terminating just below the engine. The oil mist from this hose is picked up by the air flow under the coach, mixed with dirt and dust and blown into the radiator. A common fix for this is to extend the crank case vent tube to the back corner of the coach beyond the radiator. This had not been done on ours before we bought it so the radiator was well fouled. It is virtually impossible to clean the radiator and CAC effectively in place. The assembly has to be removed by dropping out the bottom and then separated. If you find one you like with this arrangement, try to take it for a test drive up a grade and monitor the coolant temperature. If the temperature is increasing excessively, the radiator is probably fouled. Other options for Beaver parts and technical support is Beaver Coach Sales and Service in Bend, Oregon, http://www.beavercoachsales.com/. Also, NW RV Supply in Eugene, Oregon has a lot of old Beaver and Safari parts. There quote to me for dropping the radiator assembly, cleaning it and re-installing was $2,000. Unfortunately I couldn't get it there so we paid a lot more. Good luck on your search.

I have the Cummins ISM500 in my motorhome and the air filter has been recently replaced. The air filter minder has not been indicating so I removed the tubing to the air minder and checked it with a vacuum cleaner hose and I could get the indicator of the minder in the visible range. I disconnected the hose at the main air duct leading from the filter to the engine and removed the fitting on the air duct. The fitting at the duct appears to have a sintered metal filter (probably brass) in it but there is no visible debris in it. I assume that this filter is there to ensure no debris would get sucked into the engine if the tubing to the air minder were to become disconnected, cut, etc. I cannot get any air flow through this fitting by blowing on it. Should I be able to get air flow through this fitting by blowing on it? Is this an item that should be replaced? My previous mh had a Cat engine and even after replacing the air filter I could get indication on its monitor.

I am going to table this issue for now and will probably run new wires when I decide to install the solar panel(s). Thanks for all the input.

Thanks Rich. I am sure the wires under the reefer vent are the wires intended for the solar panel. There are are a pair (red and black) that are connected to a terminal block to which one would connect the solar panels. I don't mind cutting into the headliner in the cabinet behind the bedroom TV (it's out of site and out of mind) but my thought is that if the wires were a little short, they may have decided that since the build list did not specify the installation of the panels, they just may have left them somewhere in the overhead short of the cabinet which was the intended destination. I removed one of the small recessed lights outside of this cabinet to determine the construction of the ceiling. The upholstery material is glued to 1/2" plywood above which is 1"+ rigid foam with 1/8" ply (door skin) on top of it. If the wires were above that assembly, then it would, definitely, not be worth locating them. The appropriate plan of action would be to run new wires. Are you aware of any specific type/brand of signal injector that could be used to locate wires.

My 2003 Monaco Executive was pre-wired for solar panels at the factory; however, the solar panels were never installed. My manual states that the wiring is located on the roof under the refrigerator vent and the other end of the wires are in the cabinet behind the bedroom TV. There are #6 wires on a terminal block under the refrigerator vent but there are no wires behind the bedroom TV. I have contacted Monaco technical support and they suggested I also check inside the refrigerator enclosure from outside and also under the refrigerator but I found nothing in either of those locations. I have searched the battery compartment and engine compartment for any unterminated wires without success. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where/how I mind find these wires? Is there a means by which one could put a signal on an open ended wire and trace it with a detector?

When I read your post I thought I must be standing in front of a talking mirror. The clear coat and base coat on our coach has deteriorated in exactly the same area and manner. The estimate I had for repair was within $50 of what you mentioned. And we are also in Arizona. I did meet a guy, who knew a guy, etc. That fellow works out of his garage and he offered to repair it for $600. Later when I tried to contact him he did not return my calls so I decided to pursue other options. I found http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ and if you have the paint codes, they can mix paint to that code and put it in 12 oz. spray cans. I don't know how much it is going to take so I ordered 4 cans of base and 4 cans of clear coat. I have the paint but have spent the last 4 weeks scraping 3M clear film off the front so haven't started on the paint repair. So far I have spent less than $200 for the base paint, clear coat, primer and other related supplies. I don't know how well the the clear coat will fair into the adjacent areas so a little high build primer may be necessary. Of course the clear coat in the rattle can is not catalyzed so it won't last as long as the original but if I catch it before the base coat is damaged, I should be able to spray on additional clear as necessary. AutomotiveTouchup.com has a lot of information, videos and tips so it's a site worth visiting. As stated by the previous post, most automotive paint suppliers can also mix your paint and put it in an aerosol can. I expect to start prepping and painting after we return from a rally about the middle of February. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Have you found a dash panel? If not, when we had our 98 Beaver Contessa, I didn't like the looks or layout its dash panel so I fabricated one from 1/8" aluminum laminated with Wilsonart laminate and was pleased with the result.

I am currently in the process of removing the film from the front of my RV. It is a slow and a difficult process. I am sure the difficulty I am experiencing is partly due to its age (10 years). I am using a miniscraper (plastic razor blade) and Vinyl-Off, sold by Crystaltek, (http://www.crystaltek.us.com). It's taking approximately 2 hours to remove one square foot. Technical support at Crystaltek has been excellent and they are sending me a sample of a more aggressive removal solution to try. I had two estimates from body shops for removing the mask, one was $1400 and the other was $1500 which I thought was high but now I understand why. One of those shops said he has had good success painting over the film to match the coach and offered to do mine for $600. It will still look like a mask because you still have the raised edges and butt joints; however, since I have started the removal that is no longer an option. I will report back if I find anything better to help remove this vinyl. Try Northwest RV Supply (http://nwrvsupply.com). They have had a lot of Monaco parts. Give them a call since their website does not reflect the entire inventory.

You might try Northwest RV Supply (http://www.nwrvsupply.com/). They had a lot of dash panels at one time but the last time I was in there, their supply had diminished. Give them a call because the website does not reflect their entire inventory. Jack

The problem is solved. I removed the dash panel and the plug for the fan speed switch had fallen off. I replaced the plug and the fan works on all speeds. I don't know why it was working intermittently before but possibly the plug was slightly hanging on the switch pins so it would barely make contact on HI only. It is now firmly locked in place.

Since these are not going to be easy to get to, I believe I will replace both resistor and switch.

My fan was operating on high only as noted by another contributor. Removing the fan knob and then applying side pressure to the shaft the fan will come on and may or may not stay on. Based on that I am assuming it is the switch. I will be removing it this week to troubleshoot.

Thanks for the tip. It appears to be the switch so will go on a search for a new one. Any suggestions?

I have a 2003 Monaco Executive. The dash AC/Heater control has three knobs: fan speed, temperature setting and flow discharge options (floor, dash, both, etc.). The fan switch will turn on the blower then after a short time the blower stops. Rapidly cycling the fan switch will cause it to come on but will soon stop. I had a 1998 Beaver with the same control and the same problem. Is this typical of these controls and do I have to replace the entire control or can the fan switch be replaced. Thanks, Jack