bowtie

Look above the batteries in the battery compartment. You'll see a square tube coming from the compartment behind it and attached to a gear driven drive for that side of the slide. Either the tube stripped on the gear assembly connection or gears broke off of the drive assembly. The tube can be repaired by cutting the damaged end off and drilling a new hole. The tube telescopes in to another square tube in the other compartment and can extend to compensate for the length cut off. If it's the gear teeth, the unit needs to be replaced and Tiffin has it for about $75 as I recall. Fairly easy to replace, but you may want to have a technician do it. You'll need to syncronize the slide sides after that, but again, not too difficult. Good luck....

Did you get power after the thumping noise? Normal in my 2014 Phaeton with the same system is after plugging into park pedestal and turning on power it takes about 3-4 minutes for the surgegaurd to go through it's test process. When it's happy, it will throw the big switch to engage power. It is a thump and can be heard around and inside the coach. Power is then available. If you're not getting power after the thump, something else is wrong and I'm afraid I can't help you. Les

I don't know, it looks to me like you have the water inlet valve set to TANK FILL and not INTERIOR WATER. That could explain the issue. Look at the small arrow on the red handle. I'm not sure, but I think it's on TANK FILL in this position. Not labeled very well.

Know that this is catastrophic insurance. It will never pay back for normal wear and tear and normal breakdowns. It will only pay off if you have major engine, power train, electrical, or chassis stuff. Also, most of this stuff is factory covered for some time, so extending that only pays off if you're sure you will have it that long. All that being said, a major failure costing $10 - $20k is not unrealistic, so piece of mind and major cost avoidance may be worth it. Also, my Good Sam policy covers per visit. So you can save up minor stuff that can be put off and have them all repaired a one time with one claim and one deductible. Les

Need to know the engine type (Gas/Diesel), brand, coach, year, mileage. This minimal info is necessary to make any educated guesses you can act on.

Wish I had a good answer for you, but I can advise that you get as far away from that RV shop as possible. What they did is sinful. None of that would have caused your problem. A simple thermostat may be more likely, or a fan clutch. They wasted your money and time. I would try to find a Cummins repair shop, usually at or near truck stops. They know what to do and have everything there. They keep over-the-road trucks on the road and don't mess around. You can even join Cummins club and get discounts on parts and service. Good luck. Please let us know how things work out.

I have not, but I can tell you that the vacuum behind a diesel may not exist for many. I have a Phaeton 40' diesel pusher with an aft radiator. I installed a Cruiser Lift for my Harley and thought I could put a regular cover on the bike when on the road since it is tucked up tight against the back of the coach. No such luck. As shown in my rear camera, the cover flapped in the wind so hard it tore apart. My only explanation is that the cooling air from the radiator exits there and fills the vacuum. So I had to spend $500 on a custom stretch cover for the bike to help keep it clean and not fly apart.

Best advice I've received is from a tire dealer insisting that I don't over-buy tires. Unless we are on the road full time and putting 15k miles a year or more, we will time out of the tire before wearing it out. UV and heat will kill the tire in 5 to 7 years and in many cases people still have lots of wear left on the tire. Cracks in the tread grooves and sidewall dictate the tire be replaced regardless of how much tread is left. He suggested TO'YO, Continental, Bridgestone, Cumho, etc. unless I would be on the road a lot. Michelin is by far the best tire in his opinion, but he has customers throwing away expensive Michelins with most of its tread still on the tire. I wound up trading the coach in on another before buying tires, so I can't say I prefer one over the other. Just passing on recommendations from an expert.

All good suggestions. I'd just add that you check to see if anything else is drawing on the generator at the same time, such as the refer, or other appliances and lighting. Know that the AC unit takes a large draw from the generator to start the compressor. Once started is draws much less current. There is also a capacitor somewhere at the power input to the AC to help with that startup. If that capacitor is bad it will do exactly as you described because it is drawing way too much current to get the compressor started.

I agree with wolfe10. I'll just add that you likely have one or more cigarette lighter outlets in the coach that could be used to run a fan. Either way, AC or DC, a small fan will not deplete your batteries overnight. They will hardly notice the draw.

My 2014 Phaeton DP has the power steering hydraulic reservoir in the rear engine access near the radiator. The oil and trans level checks are there also. If you you and diesel pusher I imagine it's the same.

Also check the 6' cable you mentioned. Is it heavy gauge, rated for more than 50 amps? Does it get hot when the AC is running and hotter when the second one is started? That 6' piece of cable can be a huge resistor that winds up limiting your available current. Try to verify all ground connections are clean and tight in the coach and the Onan.

Yes, yes, yes. Had in installed on my 14 Phaeton and man o man, I can stop sawing the steering wheel and overcoming pavement variations, including crowns. Takes all the work out of driving and makes it comfortable. I heard they will install free if you buy it at the factory in Georgia. So I did that. It was only about $400 for the unit, free install, and they do it right. The install only takes 10 minutes. The skill and patients come with making road adjustments to tweak it in to fit your specific vehicle. I highly recommend it. I've put well over 10k miles on our coach with it and I appreciate it every day.

I would suspect the switch or the wiring harness connections at the switch (under dash) and/or at the headlights. Could be a connector loose or disconnected anywhere in the circuit. Since no light comes on at the dash panel to indicate brights, I'm pretty sure it's in the switch or harness.