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  1. Well like everybody thought, warranty people said it did not need the drier, but I had it replaced anyway. With my 200 deductible they got by with a little over 400 and mine was closer to 800. Wouldn't pay for the supplies and the bolts that broke off. Steel into aluminum doesn't work so good. Its over and just another reason that the warranty companies have a bad name. Those that have good luck with them, OK, but for me I would not recommend them.
  2. OK all, will pick up the RV today. Will try to post what was done to it. Know the insurance did not pay for a lot of it.
  3. Follow up on the RV,still in the shop as the shop and my extended warrenty cannot get together.Warrenty says it will not pay for the drier to be replaced,because it is not a required part and not needed.I say it should be replaced anytime the compressor is replaced.What are your thoughts on this?
  4. So the RV has been taken to the RV shop. Called and they stated they were going to replace the compressor and the drier. I think it was the AC clutch, but knowing the shop, it took the easy way out. At least the dryer is being replaced. As it looks it will be in the shop a while. Anyone that is having the same problem,check the clutch first,most likely it is shorted out. Thanks for all the help.
  5. Thanks all,a lot of good info here.Have a appt with the rv dealer 12 oct to work on it.Hope they are better than my last ones.
  6. Thanks, it makes sense. So, to operate properly, this the unit must have freon in the correct amount? Thanks for the advice.
  7. Sorry about the confusion. Yes it is the coach AC. Manholt, you say you had the same problem. Did the fuse blow in the heat and cool mode? If I charge it with 134 it will blow a fuse. If I pump it dry it will not blow the fuse ,and everything works, of course it does not blow cold air. Do you think it is the compressor? Thanks everyone.
  8. I have the manual and looked up circuitJ4-1 it says 25Amp and states open and also reserved. Let me try and explain this: I vacuumed all of the system out and the AC and Heater comes on, of course no cool air. Then I had some freon134 put in and the fuse blew again. Could some thing be plugged or the comp be bad. Don't have any real RV AC shops around here that will help. Had it into the shop and they say they need a shop manual to check the wire schematic. $180.00 later I took it home. Sorry for the long talk but was hopping for the best.Thanks to the 2 people that answered. Any other suggestions? Also the fan on the AC radiator does run.
  9. Have a 2009 Damon Astoria 38 ft. When I turn the AC or Heater on it blows the fuse. If I turn the fan on vent it works great. Had it in the shop and they could not find the problem. It is not the fan fuse that blows but another one-- don't know where it goes Anyone have this problem or can help? Thanks
  10. Hi Ron,my MH also must be running and charging.The amp guage must be in the + side before my jacks will work.Brett,I agree with the electric bit,maybe my playing with the connecters helped.Time will tell.Ron,got a son in law living in Holly Springs.Go to duke once a year,lung cancer.
  11. OK, went out yesterday to check on the jacks. First checked to see if any hyd leaks around the motor--none. Next tried to see if there was any wires loose--none. Started the RV and let it warm up and tried the jacks and they worked (go figure). Will temp have anything to do with it? Got up to the 60s here yesterday. Please don't tell me it only works in the warm weather.
  12. Ok I am back to say that I went out to exercise my jacks and now they will not work, just click.To cold out yet to do to much outside.On my last post I stated that I had replaced the intermediate shaft. A question was asked if the original shaft had groves for seals, the answer is no, it was a smooth shaft. Also see that they have improved the seals, hope mine came with them. Also comment on the warranty, 3-5 years on a car and 1 yr on a MH. Someone doesn't trust there work .As far as the emergency directions go, they would have to show me how they plan on getting to the back of the motor with a drill--can't even get my hand back there. Will keep you posted as far as the jacks are concerned.
  13. I have a 2010 Damon Astoria with the hyd problem. It was leaking fluid out of the motor in the front of the pump (of course it was out of warranty). I have a friend that works on all the big farm equipment and had him take it off for me.We separated the motor from the pump and there is a short shaft that connects the 2. Called Lippert and they stated that the seal had failed. I could not find a seal on this shaft and no place to put one.Again talked to the rep and they stated they would ship me a new shaft.When it arrived it was completely different, same length and diameter but this shaft had 2 O rings on it. Sure did make sense as it stops the fluid from getting to the motor. Meanwhile I took the motor apart and cleaned it completely.Reassembled it and no more leaks. Asked the engineer at Lippert if this was a modification (oh no this is the type all of them use). Go figure, no claims against them. Hope this long post helps someone. Still cost me for the shaft.
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