jleamont

This happened to us on our old coach, it was low voltage from the tower caused the amperage to spike melting my transfer switch wiring and Neutral Buss bar. I (got this from an electrician) I took the unit to our local RV dealer for other work and had them look over the wiring and make the necessary repairs. They told me they see this all the time and to buy a surge protector that monitors this situation and will shut the coach down in the event it happens again. I took their advice and I have had my fair share of power outages since with the surge protector cutting the coach power.

Thank you for the advice kaypsmith. we only dry camp one week end a year for 2 days and my generator has an auto start when the batteries drop too low. I was mostly concerned the the invertor wave form working with the electronics on the fridge, this unit seems to be the one everyone recomends, so I think i will be ok.

I did not realize they were made by Thetford, they should stick with toilets seems like they got it correct with a place to put @#$%. I just fixed our gas burner now it cools the unit down to a wonderful 48 degrees from 62. I do not plan on using it much since I really love the coach and I would rather not have the side wall burned out or the coach totaled. When the season is over it will be replaced. I am beyond disgusted with their quality, customer service and the prices for simple items to make minor repairs. There is a post from a person selling parts off of his, it is in the process of being replaced with a residential unit.

Thanks for the post, ours is next to be replaced with the same unit. I have had it with NEVERCOLD products. Was Home Depot the best $$?

Keep in mind if your radiator cap is releasing pressure too soon it will cause the coolant to boil prematurely. See the chart below. Call me crazy but when I service a cooling system for repairs or a flush I either test the cap or just replace it. Table #2 lists the boiling point of water at a particular pressure

I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 for my customers (fire apparatus and ambulances) If its a new Ford Diesel (6.7L Power Stroke) Mobil 5W40 Full synthetic Diesel oil. My Cummins ISL Mobile Delvac Elite 15w40 Synthetic blended. I am too cheap to pay for 34 quarts of full synthetic otherwise I would. Inline 5 cyl Sprinter Mobile 5w40 Full synthetic Diesel oil V6 Sprinter Quaker state 5w30 full synthetic european diesel blend. Strongly recommend oil sampling I could not tell you how many times the report saved an engine that no one realized had a problem. No one mentioned the filter? I use Fleetguard on my Motorhome, Ford or Racor on Ford products (Racor is the OEM manufacture for Ford) I prefer the engine manufacturer's recommended filter brand, I have see the aftermarket versions cause engine problems especially if it requires an adapter to fit, you should not use it. I have cut different manufacture filters open and sometimes what's inside is an eye opener.

We were planning the summer, so the breeze would be good. Any recommendations?

Brett, We are not sure, and we are open to suggestions, since we will have our jeep with us a drive to a destination from the campground would not be a big deal. I am thinking of a nice, clean place with a decent view or if inland to avoid the "tight rundown campground" I would not have a problem giving up the view for nice surroundings

We are planning a trip to Padre Island next year, does anyone have any recomendations for a nice campground? We are in a 40' Diesel with a Jeep in tow. I saw the KOA there has bad reviews for site size/space anyone stayed there or somewhere else with a recomendation? Thank you.

This is what i use and it has been discontinued by Webber. http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/6504.html I guess depending on your stove dimensions you may have to do some homework to find what fits best, good luck.

I use a Weber cast iron "Q" grill griddle, fits great I do not recall the price but I do not remember it being expensive.

Please let us know what you find, I also have a Roadmaster chassis now. I can only compare to our old class C with springs and air bag helpers, I'm in heaven now with this coach but still very curious what the root cause of your concern is.

Thank you for the information and the photos were great. We are going to complete this task soon, I have had enough with the Norcold product safety record and reliability already and I have only owned this coach for 2 months. We have met people with Norcold products that have had nothing but bad things to say about their reliability. Funny story, I called Norcold to see if I could use the 1200 on the invertor since the gas burner is not working, the tech support person was very numb, his response was "no, it draws to much power and no invertor will handle that load", funny my invertor will run the microwave, that fridge pulls that much power, I doubt it. I have to do my homework a little and seek out the best price for one and make the switch. I am tired of looking at the thermometer inside and seeing 45-50 deg, good thing we only use this for mini weekend getaways a few times a month. My wife is very concerned over the safety record the RV refrigerators provide. Funny you mentioned frozen ice cream, I put a bottle of cranberry juice in our freezer for three days and it only turned to slush not even a firm slush, pretty sad. Our old RV was equipped with a Dometic Americana, and the fridge was 16 years old, other that routine maintenance I had no issues with it, in fact it would have froze the juice and split the bottle in a day. After speaking to their customer support center I can see why they have product issues. Thank you again for the information. due to safety and cost this sounds like the best approach. Joe

We just returned from a trip, our first long trip with our 2002 HR Imperial (40PKD) Cummins ISL 400 Allison 3000 6spd. We were towing our Jeep Wrangler which I believe weights around 3300lbs. We had the generator on for 7hrs of the 11 hour trip North on Rt81 from Tennessee. MPG 10.05. I ran the hills at 55 the flats at 62, I tried to accelerate above 62 down hill for the next hill to get a little extra push and I actually stopped to top off the tank, I thought the fuel gauge was broken. We were very happy with the MPG and impressed with the power. At 60mph I was at 1500RPM's seemed a bit high but MPG was better than I expected, compared to our old coach (1998 Coachmen Santara 311SB Class C V10) this journey would have been 6mpg towing with the engine next to me at 4000 rpm most of the time.

We just returned from a trip, our first long trip with our 2002 HR Imperial (40PKD) Cummins ISL 400 Allison 3000 6spd. We were towing our Jeep Wrangler which I believe weights around 3300lbs. We had the generator on for 7hrs of the 11 hour trip North on Rt81 from Tennessee. MPG 10.05. I ran the hills at 55 the flats at 62, I tried to accelerate above 62 down hill for the next hill to get a little extra push and I actually stopped to top off the tank, I thought the fuel gauge was broken. We were very happy with the MPG and impressed with the power. At 60mph I was at 1500RPM's seemed a bit high but MPG was better than I expected, compared to our old coach (1998 Coachmen Santara 311SB Class C V10) this journey would have been 6mpg towing with the engine next to me at 4000 rpm most of the time.

Thank you for the advice, I have a strong feeling this will come sooner than I would like it too. I only have the Vacuum system located under the frige now and there is a lot of room above it.

I have a Splendid 2000 series, does anyone have an issue with water reentering the drum after you are done washing, We purchased it and the on/off switch was already pushed to "ON" and the drum had about 6" of water laying in it, so I put it to spin and it did its thing, and drained out, I ran a load thru it, worked great, shut it off after it was done drying and the next day I had a small puddle in the bottom, we just purchased the RV used and I am not sure if this is normal or not? Any tips?

Ok, we looked at a new Fleetwood Class A, it had a residential unit from the factory, it ran off the invertor. Seemed like a smart thing to do. We purchased a used Class A with a Norcold 1200 series, of coarse it only works on A/C, (im impressed it worked at all at 12yrs old) I ordered a new burner and i am thinking of tossing it in the trash since it has out lived most Norcolds being 12 yrs old. Maybe a Dometic I would reconsider but thats $3000.00 away, not going to happen. Our new/used coach has an invertor built in, as soon as i figure out how to use it throught the RC7 GS controller I will be set to switch over. Plus it has an auto generator start to replenish the batteries if needed, so I feel good about that. My question is what trimming did you have to do to fit the standard fridge into the RV hole in the wall? Do they make a direct replacement for specific sizes? What about the hole in the outside wall will it help or hurt? the interior of the coach is very nice, I do not want the fridge to look out of place.

Did Cummins correct any of this on line prior to releasing later engines? I have a 2001 ISL400 I just replaced the lift pump and all suction fuel lines, I am familliar with the connector you spoke of (big round twist connect with multi pins) under lift pump. Usually the first one-two years out on a new product are the problem units and as time goes on service bulletins get corrected on the production line as redesigned parts become available. Does the message above have a serial number range, production date range?

I have repaired this before on a 6.7L (2007) Cummins, the "quill tubes" that feed the injectors leak fuel into the valve spring area next to the injector, usually the injectors get replaced also, strange design, no seal between the tube and the injector, just a press fit from tighting the tube on the outside of the head where the fuel rail connects. I have had other techs tell me that they just replaced the tubes and it stopped the leak.

I had a similar problem with my old coach (Coachmen)-- it was a corroded ground on the frame, I was connected to the house batteries on that coach. I just followed the ground cable to the frame from the battery bank, strange thing was everything else in the coach worked great, but the generator would not start. Did you notice if anything dimmed down when you attempted to start the generator? Interior lights etc? Mine would shut off the interior lights while attempting to crank the generator.

I replaced the fuel line from the tank to the fuel separator, and the line from the separator to the fuel pump on the engine, that was a project! After 4 times of filling the filters and it stalling it finally stayed running and I left it run for 45min on high idle (cruise control on). I think I am good now. FYI anyone with a Cummins engine in this time frame (ISB,ISC, ISL,ISM, ISX same pump) you might want to replace the fuel pump or have it replaced, Cummins told me they had problems with the pumps sucking air due to a design flaw within the pump gasket where the electric part mounts to the housing. Good preventative maintenance if its a know problem, I just wonder what else should start to think about replacing on the chassis. Thank you Wolfe10, you are always a help!

I unhooked the line at the tank and dropped it into a jug of diesel up front to make sure it wasnt the fuel pickup in the tank pulling the air since the fuel tank is 3/4 full. The little beads of fuel over the on the fuel lines in the basement area actually made me happy I was headed in the right direction. Thanks for the replys, today will tell, I am going to replace both lines from the front to the back (feed and return).

Anyone ever replaced their fuel lines from the tank to the engine? Mine have fuel drops on them in the basement and the engine appears to be stalling due to air in the fuel. After 30 seconds the fuel filters go 3/4 empty, engine stalls, I thought it was the transfer pump and i replaced it with the latest updated Cummins pump today, no improvement Then I noticed the fuel drops when I lowered the ceiling down in the basement. The new pump is nice-- it self primes when you change the fuel filters, after 5 versions I feel like this was a good PM idea anyway. I unhooked the supply line from the tank and put it into a 5 gallon diesel fuel container, still stalls. Next is to replaced the lines from the front to the back, I am not happy about this but i guess it's my only option now. The Cummins dealer told me this is fairly common that the rubber breaks down. 2002 Monaco/HR anyone had this happen?

Found it, it is not purging and it was tucked up near the right rear wheel up high, funny, all of the space under the coach they thought that was a good place to mount it. Now I have to break out my air brake diagnostic book and start figuring out why.