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Everything posted by jleamont
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Our HR has the ABS module located in the drivers side console, below the transmission shift pad. What year Ambassador?
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DD, I removed ours 2-3 years ago. It still looks the same. No chips! Maintain a safe following distance to avoid the stones.
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At Castaways now. I think I’d like it more of the concrete pad was in a better spot
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Here is the latest Garmin RV GPS. Personally, none of them are perfect but I have been very pleased with Garmin's quality and customer support. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/660552
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That looks familiar. Check out one from a Ford F650 in the link below. Perhaps you could determine the specs of the lines and bore and see if it would work? The one on the link is made by Dorman, their tech support department might be able to help. https://www.stockwiseauto.com/dorman-m630276-brake-master-cylinder?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8P65oPfd5AIVBpSzCh1N4wb4EAQYASABEgJUvPD_BwE&fit_id=10771&Year=2003&Make=Ford&Model=F650&gsID=pxf2428217f10771&
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Jim, I don’t want something linked to our bank accounts. I’ve gotten hacked two times. Now I don’t even use a debit card. Cash or credit and pay it off.
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From what I read it’s TA and Petro. The link didn’t really spell out what fueling locations and where. Perhaps the APP will once you actually sign up. It also appears you have to recharge the card or go inside to pay. I am good with that but I wanted an actual credit card so that was a little disappointing. I figured it would give us more options while traveling and that’s what we really need. Currently we only have the GS Pilot card, which we use often. I might also look into a Loves Credit card. If it turns the pumps on at the truck island I’ll be all for it.
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No need for that, you can always go back and correct it by using "edit".
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I just signed up for this on the FMCA home page.
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It was ALL ISX models that had problems, the problems depended on HP or year. The problems were different depending on HP. higher HP had Valve problems. They ALL had Ceramic Plunger issues with the injection pumps (this was based off of the engine year, not HP), camshaft issues and the list goes on.. below are a few examples on lower HP engines. Example 1; https://highwayandheavyparts.com/n-12896-cummins-isx-problems-and-failures.html Example 2; http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-163822.html Example 3; https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2409873
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So many other manufactures components and the human factor will ruin the reliability on anything. Ross's post above is a great example of the human issues. In the end its how the finial end manufacture stands behind it.
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goose47, Welcome to the FMCA forums! I'll have to ask my neighbor. He dolly tows his Sonic, never asked why I just assumed it was the car and I have no idea what year or any details on it.
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Does the FMCA Roadside Assistance Plan cover your dinghy?
jleamont replied to ronbonosr's topic in Roadside Assistance
timandjane, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! -
rear brake overheated-Is it a covered item?
jleamont replied to rayin's topic in Roadside Assistance
RayIN, where are your inner dual temp sensors mounted, do you have a photo? -
I have seen them on many commercial vehicles. I can’t say I ever heard a complaint.
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I had that done to my daughters Honda. I wasn't impressed with the overall result, but I negotiated it in. I have heard good things on the new Ceramic coating process. What is the product and the cost?
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I do it either way. If the black tank is left open while emptying the gray all you would be doing is aerating the gray water as you introduce air from the black tank. Most of the time I pull the gray valve and while it’s draining I close the black.
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Hopefully you can clear it out on your own. The Algaecide for me broke it down so it would get into the filters. At first it was so bad it was clogging up the fuel line at the water separator. I thought for sure it was going to be expensive. I got ours from a truck stop that must have had a load dropped that sat around too long in the summer. I had these little buggers also; https://www.aa.co.nz/cars/motoring-blog/what-is-the-diesel-bug-and-how-can-i-prevent-it/
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You should leave both closed until its time to empty them.
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How did you make out with this?
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Diesel will burn if misted over a flame, you can pour it on the ground and put a torch to it, it will just smoke, only after a while, not burn. Scroll down to #2 https://www.anl.gov/article/7-things-you-might-not-know-about-diesel
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Funny, one of the first tests to determine if diesel fuel is contaminated with gasoline is to see if it lights with an open flame, if it does its contaminated, if it doesn't there is NO gas in it.
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I added algaecide to ours, topped it off with fresh fuel and ran it to 1/4 a tank, topped it off with fresh fuel and added more algaecide. I did this for several months and many fill ups. It took me a while to get it all out. My primary filter was in need of changing the first time around 900 miles, and it went up from there. That all happened back in 2016, to this day I still use a fuel conditioner at each fill up. Cheap insurance and the coach does perform better with it. I looked into fuel polishing, it was just north of $1000 and I had to drive it to them. I didn't spend nearly that much doing the way I mentioned but I guess it will depend on how bad yours is. If I still had a fuel tank repair shop close by I would have pulled the tank and had them cut it open, clean it and weld it back together. I have had that done in the past for Ambulances and Fire trucks, that works best and insures cleanliness. Make certain you carry extra filters, proper tooling and a way to prime those filters with you at all times. I still carry 5 primary filters and 2 secondary filters. Tools are in a tote, rubber gloves next to the tote and I have a jug to store excess fuel until I can properly dispose of it when I get home.
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I also do hold a lot on the temperature function, I use it to compare to the others to see if something is out of the ordinary, that's it. Here's why; I had a situation this year in stop and go traffic down a hill, brakes were hot and I could see it on the TPMS, then someone pulled out on us once we got rolling to speed and I stood on the brakes, both rear inner duals set off over temperature alarms when I came to a stop. Me being me pulled over into a parking lot and took a temperature reading of all drive tires with my temp gun. The tires were not close to the temp reading on the inner duals on the TPMS display, the outers were! I soon realized the TPMS sensor was getting hot from the brakes (they were located between the wheels then) and not from the actual tire. My over sized fire apparatus brake lining probably escalated the heat. I moved them back to the outer duals now for accessibility with solid extensions like I had set up before.
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Not sure on its height. Our coach is only 11'9 the satellite dome puts us at 12'5", AC units are at 12'3". As Wayne mentioned it could be the angle.