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Lenp

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Posts posted by Lenp


  1. Tripping the hot water heater breaker?????  There should not be any connection.

    Are you connected to 30 amp or 50 amp service?  If you on 30 amp, perhaps something is weird in the load share circuit.  If on 30 amp and both compressors (or maybe even one compressor if there are other loads) are trying to run, the hot water heater should be shed (disconnected).  Perhaps the momentary surge to 50 amps is also dropping the voltage which, in turn, would cause the water heater (and everything else) to draw more current and trip the breaker.

    If your on 30 amp try running your generator and see if the same thing happens.

    Lenp


  2. Pulling a rig that heavy WILL require supplemental braking.  Depending on which brake system you choose, there may be some battery drain involved.  I tow a F150 4x4 and use an RVI brake system.  Three to four hours of towing seems to be OK but longer times will draw the battery down some - perhaps not enough to prevent starting the toad but I chose not to drain the battery at all and installed a charge line from the coach.  I left the RVI plugged in overnight once and woke up to a dead battery.

     

    Lenp


  3. You may have issues with satellite and teleconferencing and/or bandwidth requirements.  The latency (delay) can be real annoying with live conferencing,  Not sure what bandwidth is available today but when I was using it ten years ago it was quite limited unless you paid BIG bucks.  Back then each satellite beamed down coverage to the entire US (or other areas).  While they still do that, their main focus is now on spot beams which provide (I think) higher speeds.  Mobile users were locked out of the spot beam service when it was first initiated but I think there is now a third party provider that can set you up with spot beam service.

    My main reason for dropping the service was slow speeds and arrival of 3G Verizon.  They touted "speeds up to xxx" and delivered much less saying "we don't guarantee anything" .  They may be better today but....  Now with 4G Verizon almost everywhere I would never consider going back.

    Another BIG disadvantage to satellite is you MUST always have a clear view of the southern sky - NO trees allowed - thus no shade.  You will find many campgournds where a clear view (or a hole in the trees at just the right spot) is not easy to find.

    Suggest you visit the datastorm users forum for additional information.    http://www.datastormusers.com/

    Expect to have to register before being allowed access.  The fellow who runs the datastorm site is also an RVer and very knowledgeable.

    Good luck,

    Lenp 


  4. In addition to what Rich says, you can also pull the drain plug and get a "tank rinse wand" like this one at Camping World:

    http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070

    You have an Atwood that has an aluminum tank that is essentially rust proof. The other brand (Suburban) does not us aluminum, thus requires an Anode Rod in the drain plug hole to keep it from rusting through. These anode rods need to be checked and/or replaced at least yearly. Those who neglect to do this will soon find themselves with a leaking tank.

    Lenp


  5. While a voltmeter is a valuable tool when troubleshooting electrical problems, a trouble light can be even more valuable. I would guess that IF you used a trouble light on both sides of that fuse location (with the fuse removed) only one side would illuminate the trouble light. The voltage your reading on the load side is simply leakage from (as previously noted) a corroded socket or something similar.

    I once had a 12 outlet (cigar lighter) that had a 12 volt reading with a voltmeter (between the center pin and the sleeve) but when a phone charger was plugged into it, the phone would not charge nor did the little LED on the plug light up. I discovered a blown fuse for that circuit. The DC distribution panel had the LEDs that were supposed to tell you if a fuse was blown, BUT they only light up when a load is attached providing a path for current flow With no load, the LED stayed dark but it still passed 12 volts to the outlet. Sure had me fooled for a while. A trouble light would have caught it immediately.

    Also great for checking fuses - simply probe each side of the fuse and if the fuse is good, the light will light.

    Another tip for ensuring a good ground for the trouble light - get a 120 AC plug (three prong) and attach a long wire to the ground (round) connector and use that for your trouble light ground. Leave the other two (flat) connectors un-connected. This solves the problem of finding a good, known ground.

    Lenp


  6. Not sure how your Fleetwood compartment doors are configured, but, if like my Winnebago, the handle is in the center of the door and connected by rods to the door latches on both sides of the door. I have had two of the latches break preventing access. The latch is a plastic or Teflon "pin" tapered on one side so that it will retract automatically and then extend into the receiver when the door is closed - kind of like a household door latch. The tapered end of my latch broke resulting in it no longer being connected to the rod on the handle assembly. Fortunately, I could access the latch receiver from an adjacent compartment and get the door open. If that is your problem, the latch assemblies are easy to replace.

    As for your drawer..... Again I had one that would not stay closed. Mine DO NOT have any latches on them. Only a slight drop down when they are fully closed. To open them I have to first lift the drawer and then pull it out. Close inspection of my drawer glides revealed the small tabs that hold the drawer closed were bent preventing it from firmly latching. A pair of needle nosed pliers solved the problem quickly. Suggest you have a close look at a good drawer glide and then compare to the bad one.

    Lenp


  7. Are they really lady bugs or are they the invasive Asian beetles that look like a lady bug? The Asian imports stink if you happen to smash them - lady bugs do not.

    We had problems with the Asian imports a few years ago and just used Raid flying insect spray. Problem is they had laid their eggs and every time we hit warm weather they began hatching again. Took a few cycles to get rid of all of them.

    Lenp


  8. Continuing from what Bill said.....

    Could a loose connection anywhere between the Surge Guard and the coach breaker panel cause the intermittent problem? I had a loose (read that as not connected) neutral in the male plug end of my cord. The surge guard saved my bacon by shutting down immediately. I was surprised that it shut down the power as I only expected it to "look" at the pedestal side. I would expect an intermittent connection could very well cause you some problems.

    Suggest you unplug from the pedestal and check ALL connections in the cord (both ends) and your AC breaker panel(s) before purchasing a new surge guard.

    Lenp


  9. Check all of your GFI outlets. Something may have tripped it (them). These are the outlets with the two buttons between the two plug receptacles. These receptacles are the first outlet in a chain of many and when they trip, all the remaining outlets on that "chain" (circuit) will be dead.

    A power surge could have tripped them or you may have simply bumped the test button which would "trip" the circuit. Sometimes your outside outlet will get some moisture in it and trip the GFI outlet for that circuit and that outlet is usually located somewhere inside the coach.

    Lenp


  10. Be aware that IF the problem is low voltage (battery or otherwise), you are running a risk of burning up a motor. Low voltage means higher current and more heat - the biggest enemy of electric motors.

    Measure the voltage AT THE MOTOR (or as close to it as you can) when moving the slide and if it drops much below 12 volts you need to fix whatever is wrong (batteries or something else). Could be just a bad ground or other connection.

    Lenp

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