shardonnay

Hi. I thought I replied, but for some reason, the answer did not "take". I believe that Mustang's thinking was that the injection system would be prone to tripping a code on the weakest-performing cylinder if the system pressure was low. They had found pressure regulator problems on other CAT engines, and mine showed some indications (pressure was in the mid-60 psi range, when it should be in the low 70s). The same reasoning applies to the filters.....common problem if you get a load of bad fuel, lowers the system pressure, etc. In retrospect, they were barking up the wrong tree.....all the indications were electrical on cylinder #2. But since they couldn't find an electrical problem, they looked in other areas. The injector harness itself was not that expensive ($121)......it was the labor that ran up the total bill (just shy of $1500).

We have a CAT C9 in our 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE. We experienced a "Check Engine" light and some rough running while driving in Texas. The ECM told us we had an electrical connection issue on injector #2. The issue was intermittent, with the light coming on sometimes, and staying off at others. We took it to Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas to get it fixed. After a day and a half of working on, they were not able to find the issue (it would not occur while they had it). They changed the fuel pressure regulator (pressure was a bit low, and the plunger looked a bit worn--after only 43k miles!). They also changed the fuel filter and water separator. $1200+ later, we were on our way....my confidence was not very high that it was actually fixed. Sure enough, a couple hours down the road, the "Check Engine" came back again. We backtracked to another Mustang CAT dealer (in Beaumont, TX)....by the time we got there, the light was out, and it was running fine.....so no repair work was done. The ECM confirmed that it was once again injector #2 that was malfunctioning. Finally, while driving a couple days later in Louisiana, the light and rough running returned. We went to Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. Fortunately, it was running on 5 cylinders when we got there, and the technician was able to capture the event on his laptop. The next day, he found the issue.......the terminal for the #2 injector wire was not securely seated in the electrical connector for the injector wiring harness. The harness was replaced -- the technician (Gary) came in on Saturday to get us back on the road -- and we drove several more days without incident. Kudos to Gary at Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. His experience with CAT engines helped him find and fix the problem. I would take my CAT-powered equipment to these folks any time. I do not have similar praise for the crew at Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas. They apparently did not have the experience to enable them to find an intermittent electrical issue. As a result, I spent $1200+ dollars at their store and got little for it (regulator and new filters). I would not go back there again. They were not interested in helping with the cost of the real repair in Louisiana.

Sorry it took a while, but I finally got this fixed. I needed a new compressor.....it was leaking refrigerant badly. The drier/filter was also plugged and was replaced. But the main problem was the compressor. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the help! I will keep you posted on what I find.

We have a 2007 Fleetwood Revolution 40E that we bought used last December. The chassis AC is blowing warm air. I bought some R134a refrigerant to charge up the system. When I started adding, the system pressure (at the low side port) started to increase.....it had been zero when I started adding. The compressor clutch was not engaging at first, but as I added refrigerant, it started coming on.....for just a second or two every 30 seconds or so. I continued adding refrigerant, and then the clutch stayed on (stopped cycling). The pressure was building, but then it fell to zero and won't come back up. The clutch continues to stay on. The vents on the dash are still blowing warm air. I've added less than 2 lbs. of refrigerant.......Fleetwood says the total is 3.38 lbs.......so I don't think I've overcharged it. The pressure on the refrigerant can gauge never got above the very bottom of the green zone. Ideas???

Looks like Wolfe10 was correct....... I replaced the bad batteries with 12 volt Deka AGMs, and all is well. It's been a couple weeks now, and I've had no problems with any aspect of the charging system. Thanks for the help!!

I had a similar problem with my Power Gear system. I ended up replacing the motor. Fixed my problems.....

All of the batteries are Interstate 12 volt. The chassis are 31-M HD, and the house are SRM-27 Deep Cycle Marine. Being a newbie, how difficult would it be, when I replace the house batteries, to convert to 6 volt as suggested? Just re-wire to the series-parallel configuration?

Hi Brett -- thanks for the advice. There is variation in the specific gravity readings from cell to cell within each battery.....some cells are much worse than others. This seems to go along with your idea of bad cell(s) causing over-charging. Verifying the inverter/charger settings was easy (they were correct). One thing I found (and corrected) was that the battery temperature lead was connected to one of the battery positive terminals; Magnum says it should be connected to a negative terminal. I corrected this; I'm not sure if this was part of the problem or not.

I'm unable to attach a picture of the wiring due to the file size limitations on the site. The batteries are wired like the diagram on the door of the battery compartment; ......positive to positive......, negative to negative.............. All are 12 volt Interstate batteries.

Last December, we purchased a 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE. Based on the records, it had new Interstate batteries (both house and chassis) installed in January 2014. We have been getting a strong rotten-egg odor in the interior of the coach under the following conditions: a) when on the road for a couple hours or more; or when we have the generator running and charging the batteries; or c) when we are connected to shore power. The odor is strongest in the battery compartment in the basement, so I am convinced the odor is coming from the batteries (and not the gray or black water systems, as one dealer suggested). At least two of the house batteries are consuming water.....I have to add water to three or four of the cells of two of the batteries on multiple occasions. After the last road trip, I found one of the house batteries had "blown its top"......the case is slightly bulged, one of the caps was blown off, and battery acid was sprayed about in the battery compartment. I talked to the Magnum folks to make sure the inverter/charger settings are correct for my batteries, but I have not made any functional checks of the operation of the inverter/charger. I checked the voltage of the house batteries, found them low, and found the specific gravity of the batteries to be in the "red" zone of the hydrometer. I'm concluding my house batteries are shot and need to be replaced. I am looking for advice on some checks I can make to my charging system before I just put in four new house batteries. I don't want to repeat the cycle of damaging good batteries. Thanks!