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rls7201

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Everything posted by rls7201

  1. rls7201

    Robert

    Our MH sits on a full service RV pad, right next to the garage. No problems with the city. Home sweet home. Most every thing on my property is aged. 1990 F150, 1995 Bounder, 1952 home. 1943 wife!
  2. You bathroom heat is probably like mine. The furnace sits on one side of the coach and the bathroom on the other. My furnace has 4 4" ducts and the 2" bathroom duct is "T" off of one of the 4" ducts. My bathroom duct is over 12' long and has hardly no flow. When in the cold, we use a small electric heater to prewarm the bathroom before showers. Richard
  3. Transfer switches (relays) hum when the armature and the iron core don't make full contact when in the closed position. Has nothing to do with the contacts. As far as reliability, they offer little problem. My 95 Bounder still has the OEM auto transfer switch. Richard
  4. Bounder wet bays have been heated since the first one in 1986. You have been misinformed. Richard
  5. Fleetwood typically only installed the two battery disconnect switches by the door/stairwell. Your best bet is to disconnect the negative battery cables from both battery banks. Some have installed a high amperage disconnect switch on both banks, for convenance. Richard
  6. Assuming you MH has a smart charger, I would leave the batteries in the MH, disconnect switches turned on and plugged in. Check the battery water levels before storage and all should be well. Richard
  7. There should be a relay system to get 24 volts to start and then revert back to 12 volts so the alternator can charge every thing. I suggest that system has failed. Thus 2 charged batteries and 2 dead batteries. Richard
  8. A proper solar installation will have a switch between the panels and the controller. Richard
  9. The basic engine, as built and tuned by International, was OK. But Ford raised the HP and stretched the head bolts. Richard
  10. The starter relay, located in the right fender well, is a known high failure item. Turn on ignition, jump around the two big posts on the relay, and see if the starter engages. An independent Mobil service tech, might just be clever enough to help you along. Richard
  11. If memory serves me correctly, open the slide and cut an opening on the wall behind the slide. Or something like that. Probable a HR or Monaco forum will have a spot on answer. Richard
  12. Has it just quit working? Is the box good? If you were happy with what you had, maybe a new cooling unit will work for you. If you spend much time off grid, then a residential refrigerator will require a larger battery bank, more solar and more wiring. Richard
  13. Please tell us what brand and model of coach you have......Do you know what brand name the AC is? Richard
  14. Where are you located in the K.C. area? Richard
  15. Herman, I signed up with the VA 17 years ago. Corp. America threw me on the streets when I was 60 and it's hard to get a head full of gray hair employed again. GRIN. So I operated a small RV repair service until I was 70. I needed medical help until I was qualified for Medicare and then I moved most of my needs to Medicare but the VA meds are still cheaper. Thank you for your service. Richard
  16. Can you explain further why a Vet can't just join the VA. I am a Vet. I have no disabilities and didn't serve in a war zone. I belong to the VA and receive my meds from them. All that is required is an annual physical. Richard
  17. Are you a veteran? If so, join the VA. Their services are available in most all states. I've found NM, AZ & NV pharmacies easy to deal with. Call ahead and see if any of the pharmacies, in those states, can help you. Just make sure you have all the meds you need before entering CA. CA is not user friendly. Richard
  18. I doubt that the switch is your problem. I suspect the relay that the switch controls is the problem. That relay should be in your Battery Control Center. Parts and wiring printed on the inside of the BCC cover. You could move all the big wires, on that relay, to one post and see if the problem goes away. Richard
  19. Yes, you have a F53 chassis. The cheep handling fix does NOT apply to your year of chassis. If you need rear sway bar bushings, find scooter dude on eBay. He has top quality stuff. Richard
  20. Deborahheinz, you are a much kinder person than I. I wouldn't have moved over for the little darlings. I weight over 200# and the little monsters probably weight under 100#. Could be they would have learned a hard lesson. Richard
  21. I believe the Maxxforce engine is the same V8 that Ford over tuned and stretched the head bolts, thus blowing head gaskets Precede with caution. Richard
  22. No need to isolate the solar from the other devices that charge your batteries. All the charging systems play well together. But you should add that switch from the panels for proper solar start up/shut down. You don't want the panels connected to the charge controller unless the charge controller is connected to the batteries first. Richard
  23. You Battery Control Center (BCC) will be close to your battery banks. Take the cover off the black box (BCC) and you'll find a wiring schematic for the BCC on the inside of the cover. That should give you enough info to trouble shoot with your VOM. Richard
  24. LOP SW (low oil pressure switch) in upper right hand corner of schematic. NC=normally closed. Connection point 12 Richard
  25. Some place close to the batteries is a black box (battery control center.). Remove the lid. On the circuit board, close to the center, is an ignition relay that turns on and off with the key. It's designed to take the load off the ignition switch. Check for burned connection around the relay. Also you may find a failed fuse in the BCC. Is your AC vacuum controlled? If so it's probably from evans tempcon. https://www.proairllc.com/design-engineering/evans-tempcon-guides/ If your AC does not use vacuum controls, it's from Denso. https://densoheavyduty.com/hvac-systems Goto downloads for wiring prints. Richard
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