Posts posted by talgutbir
The wheel buttons have their lights on all the time.....
Just traced the 4 wires from the wheel and they end up at the CCM (multiplex cpu) at the front run box. I guess Monaco connected the wheel directly to the multiplex system instead of the VIP controller.
I have 4 wires going into the CCM: Data+, Data-, Smartwheel ground, Smartwheel +.
Any Idea if I can wire it to the Ign switch so it has no power until I turn the key to ON? Or do I need someone with a laptop and software to program it?
Can anyone tell me what the contactor in the picture does? The model is Trombetta 734-1221-020
Tbutler- I found that the fuse is a re-settable one it is 30A that is rated to 450 current. It is not burnt but the contacts inside it are worn. When I clean it I can now start the coach.
I think that all I need is a new one. Unfortunately, I can't find anyone around me that sells it.
Kaypsmith- The solenoid is on the starter, the model is Delco 39MT
So our coach (2010 Monaco Dynasty) in the last 2 months had intermediate start issue (the starter won't turn). I had to try a few times until the starter kicked in. A few days ago after fueling the coach did not start and I had to jump the starter. I figured maybe bad solenoid so I just installed a new one and still not starter!!
Here is what I have done so far:
1. Check that I have 12v at the switch on the steering column. Also no 12v on the solenoid when my wife tried to start.
2. Check to see if it will start from the back panel start switch (it didn't)
3. Called Monaco but got the usual " we will look for the wiring diagram and get back to you" never did!
4. I found that when my wife turn the switch to start, I hear a click at the rear panel but no power, noticed that the fuse (see attached picture) is burnt. I tried a different one and it burns as soon as you try to start the coach.
Any help to get us back on the road?? Heading to Montreal, QC....
No it doesn't
Oh, That is not a button. Its the LED that lights up when the slide is moving
36 minutes ago, DickandLois said:
Hi Jim, Think if you look at this picture - there is a lock of sorts if I understand what that small button in between the two larger ones?
Where is the picture?
I will check if it goes out when ignition in on but what happens when you leave the coach parked with slides in, say for storage?
There is no master switch that you need to turn on before operating the slides. I guess I can always put one on this relay to cut the power to it.
I finished the wine and unfortunately even though the slide is working fine, that relay when the slides are closed is staying engaged. Not sure why.
The owner of the other Monaco like mine is mailing the wiring for these slides (still no call from Monaco) so when I get it I will try to solve the issue. He said that in his coach they disconnected the magnets since he had the same issues.
1 hour ago, DickandLois said:
Allot of high 5's to you for being a real trooper and staying with it. The information gleaned from this post will help someone down the road ! You can take the lead on the next one.LOL
Thanks for tolerating the old guy, I love challenging issues and without the proper paper work - it has been one of the top 5 for sure. The road trip should go better now!
I still didn't hear from Monaco but contacted George who is selling the same RV online. He was nice enough to agree to talk on the phone today and told me that he had problems with the slide and the dealer took the safety switches out. The good news, he has the wiring diagram for the slide circuit and other useful info. He is mailing all that to me for future use.
Guys... JUST SOLVED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here is a picture of where the second relay is located. If I didn't hear the click I would never guess it is there. Would need the wiring diagram to fix it. One wire came lose...4 days of taking apart the RV..
I can't say enough thank you to all of you who took so much time to try and help.
4 hours ago, manholt said:
The reason for asking is that Monaco went bankrupt in 07, but they had the 2010 model on assembly line in 09 and the Court OK'd the Bankruptcy in 09. So any schematic your looking for is probably a 2008. In 2011 Monaco had the max Force Engine!
I think ours was finished in 08 so might be some hope of getting it. Still waiting for Monaco to call back.. 3 days, not great service..
I am going to open up the cabinet later today to see where this hidden relay is. Looking for 12v to the motor, it seems good up until the area where this relay is so I am hopeful.. will update later tonight
I think I might be onto something...I now can hear a "click" coming from one of the cabinet in the bathroom when I try to operate the inner slide. I will try to get to it tomorrow...might be the bad relay all of you talked about...
Rich, It's my inner slide in your link but no talk about electrical requirement.
The relay Doesn't stay hot if I disconnect the small red wire.
Here is where I am right now:
1. when connecting volt meter to the outlet of the Intellitec box where the motor wires are connected I get 12v in both cases IN and OUT when the buttons are pushed so this is okay and I start tracing the wires from this point and going along to the motor. The Intellitec box is in the front top cabinets above the front seats (some people have a TV at that location) and they are going along the ceiling above the windshield. I can't see where they go from there and that is my big problem right now.
They don't talk about wiring requirements so I am not sure if there is an electronic box between the motor and my electrical system. I am going to dive in and try to follow the motor wires.
The inner slide is Accu Slide. Its not bulit by power gear and I don't think it has an exclusive control board.
I am trying to trace the wires but its not easy...
One question, if I apply no power to the motor and check the wires that's coming into the motor (with motor disconnected) with Ohm meter should it be an open circuit or closed?
1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:
The fact that the voltage is not dropping when the innerslide is all the way in is the key as to why it will not go out without reversing the wiring. This means that either the magnetic switch is not engaging when it returns to home position, or is a bad switch, or the relay contacts are welded so that the voltage does not drop. One or three of the IC's (that's the long black things with multiple legs) in the picture may have been damaged as a result. Again, MAY HAVE BEEN, not necessarily so. This is the assumption that I would be working from to correct the problem.
I checked that the magnet is lined up well. The fact that when I move the slide out from the magnet and than (and only than) the relay opens tells me that the magnet is lined up. When I tested the switch it showed the 12v just like the other two so not sure how to test it more.
If the relay contacts are welded, won't this mean that I will not hear the "click" when I take the power wire off of it?
45 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:
Is the inner slide within sight of the control switches?
1 hour ago, DickandLois said:
Talgutbir. Put together this PDF file for your reference. The last picture in the file list the specifications and it looks like there are 2, 3 amp fuse in the mod. so, one would be under the cover. NOTE! If you remove the cover, please take a picture before you inadvertently reset the hard switches under the cover. They need to be set correctly !!!!
The unit can operate both in the ground or positive wiring configuration and those little switches set each connection to the required mode at every pin.
It is a quick file of the pictures you posted for quick reference, the picture of the Magnet is missing !
NOTE! if there is no internal 3 amp fuse installed - then the mod is setup for a negative / ground point controller.
Rich, Thanks for the file! Here is the picture of the open cover. No fuse inside.
3 hours ago, manholt said:
Do you have a Cummins engine? There is a reason for my question!
Yes, ISM 500
Did you take a picture of the inner magnet ? YES, its the one I posted on page 1.
is that the picture of the Tyco unit? The TYCO is the relay. All 3 are not too far from the Intellitec board. They are above the entrance door.
Can you turn off the motor with that magnet or do you use a different one? The motor of the inner slide has current sensing unit so when the slide is fully extended or retracted and the current goes up the motor stops.
I am not sure Power Gear is the right place to go. I called them this AM and they said they don't deal with the Multiplex or Intellitec products.
28 minutes ago, DickandLois said:
Agreed Jim! Thanks for your thoughts, with only a few bread crumbs it is hard to rebuild the slice of bread ! Talgutbir is so close, I can almost taste it and I give hie allot a credit for hinging in there.
Feel that the issue is electrical, and not the logic board for now. The relay that is running warm when it should be cool. Getting power and the power control is 110 mode with the 10 amp fuses. Just need to find out why the 2 relays on the board that revers the power going to the motor are not toggling and the reed relay is my primary target for now.
Just got to see if removing the connector with the light blue wire stops the relay from getting warm. ????
The logic board actually reverse the power. When I put a meter on the black and white wires (that supply power to the motor) I get 12v when I press the S/O out button and I get -12v (reverse) when I push the IN button. As I said in my previous post, once the slides are closed, the relay stays HOT no matter what wires I disconnect from the Intellitec board.
I think the issue is somewhere between the 110 Intellitec board and the motor.
VIP(smart) Wheel Wiring
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I did call REV, they have no clue since they can't find my coach's wiring diagram.... :-(
Its a 2010 Dynasty Majestic (was built in 2008). I also noticed that the light inside the dash switches ( so you can read at night what they do) comes up when I turn the living room light on, not sure if this is how it should be or they wired this one wrong too....(it also comes up when I turn the head lights on)
I will take a picture to show where the wires connect...