desertdeals69
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Posts posted by desertdeals69
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On 12/9/2017 at 6:07 AM, hermanmullins said:The invoiced price is not what the dealer pays for vehicles. There are a number of discounts off invoice. Such as dated billing, quantiy discounts, delivery adjustments, last year vehicles the list goes on.
Herman
Not only that but the year end kickback for total vehicles sold, thats why dealerships are eager to wholesale large number of vehicles to up the count.
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What was the original tire size when new?
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Does the motor have power to it?
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Is the vibration at wheel speed or 3-4 times faster which might be driveshaft speed?
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Yes be sure you tanks are dry. It is possible that they are almost full of water which will reduce the air space and the volume of air used to release the brake uses up all your air.
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4 hours ago, richard5933 said:I've read more threads about sanitizing fresh water systems than I care to admit, and one step seems to be missing from all of them. In all the various threads and hundreds of comments, in all the online articles about methods to sanitize, I don't remember reading about anyone testing their system to evaluate the actual condition of things - not to see if sanitizing is necessary and not to see if it was successful.
Seems like the reason we want to sanitize is to ensure that the water we're drinking is safe. In order to know this, the water needs to be tested. Anyone living in a house with a well should be familiar with this process. You take a small sample (following the proper procedure) and bring it to the local testing office. In a few days you get a printout with details about what's in your water. At our house here in Wisconsin, the local county office charges only $30 for a basic test which includes a bacteriological test. The complete test is about $50, and includes testing for various other possible water components and/or contaminants. If your local county office doesn't offer this service, there are many places you can send water for testing across the country which can be found online.
So now we have this current thread about removing the taste of the bleach after sanitizing. What's the connection to my point about testing? Simple - I'd suggest that the best way to avoid having to deal with removing the bleach taste is to not sanitize unnecessarily. I've read about some people sanitizing their system multiple times a season, all in the hopes of removing some contaminant that may or may not be present. For many (most) RVs, I'd suggest that sanitizing multiple times is a waste of time and effort.
Rather than going through all this by sanitizing needlessly, just take a sample for testing. If it comes back clean, then you can skip the sanitizing and carry on. If it shows some type of contamination, then you have work to do. But, you at least have a printout in front of you showing exactly what it is you're trying to clean. Then, after running through the sanitizing procedure, you can re-test the water and learn if your process actually accomplished what you needed it to and resulted in safe water. If after running through your normal procedure you still have a contamination in your water system, then it would be time to figure out what went wrong with the process and why it didn't clean things out properly. Once you get things figured out, sanitize again and retest. This way we're not guessing and will know for certain the status of the water supply in our coaches.
Many of us test the oil and coolant in our coach engines to determine the status - why not do the same for our water supply?
You made some good points. My test was that the water had awful smell coming out of the rinser, Bleach wouldn't eliminate it for more than a few days. Hydrogen peroxide did.
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To each his own. I don't like the taste of bleach and the way I've been doing it the last 10+ years along with hundreds of others suits me just fine.
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I think it would be better to replace it with the correct alt rather than try to rewire the wrong one.
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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:Joe, the way DD described is the best way, use the 15 gallons with 1 pint, flush the system, then finish filling with fresh water. I usually try to deplete as much of the 15 as possible before filling the tank.
I don't drain the remainder of the 15 gal, I just fill the tank. Hydrogen peroxide is safe to drink, you can even brush your teeth with it!
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Probably jammed up or bad motor.
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The only cabin filter I know of is the one on the air intake of the roof AC.
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12 minutes ago, RayIN said:We've been through this before, you will have to completely fill your fresh water tank with 3% hydrogen peroxide, and soak for a minimum of 150 minutes,, to kill every bacteria in the fresh water system.https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html
No drinking water treatment courses I am aware of, to prepare for taking a state exam for licensing for a water treatment operator, address using H2 O2.
How do you know your system is sanitized without continual lab testing? Unlike Chlorine residual levels, there is not a simple positive way to test for residual H2O2.
That is the only reference I can find that even mentions using H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water, the following from the CDC,EPA and WHO does not mention H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water:
https://www.who.int/household_water/research/technologies_intro/en/
https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/hygiene/om/linkingchap6.pdf
https://www.epa.ie/pubs/advice/drinkingwater/Disinfection2_web.pdf
By my own tests I determined that it works. Newmar had a seminar on the subject and recommended the usage of hydrogen peroxide for sanitation. I had a kitchen sink faucet rinser hose that the water coming from the hose stunk really bad. I treated it with bleach and it seemed to clean it up but in a few days the odor would return. I treated it with hydrogen peroxide and the smell went away and was still gone 6 years later when I sold the coach. I talked with a water sanitation engineer at a chemical plant and aaked him about it and he said they use it all the time. The way I use it is to drain the fresh water tank and fill the hose with 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide and then hook it up to the faucet. Fill the tank with about 15 gallons. Run all the faucets cold and hot more on the hot (to flush the hot water heater) and let it sit for about an hour. Then I fill to what ever capacity I need and go on my trip.
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I like M&G system for brakes, no electrics involved.
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Has it done this all the time? It might be wired that way so you don't drive away with the jacks down.
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I would only consider a diesel.
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I replaced my almost new 6 AGM batteries with 4 Battle Born lithium 100 amp batteries. With the same load they last over twice as long and recharge in half the time. They weigh lass than 1/2 the weight at 30 lbs each.
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Was the scales level front to back and side to side? Very important for accuracy. When mine was weighed the scales were shimmed with a laser level. Being off level can change the weight hundreds of pounds.
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I have driven I40 from start to finish several times since the mid 70s and there seems to always be bad spots. I think I have been on all the coast to coast roads and some time in my 400K miles touring the country. All roads have rough spots and in the summer its hot in the southwest. I try to go to cooler places when its hot at home. I'm in Hawaii now, it was 117 when I left Lk Havasu City.
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Have the engine steam cleaned and then drive it a few miles and you should be able to see where the oil is coming from.
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How is the level on the dip stick?
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14 hours ago, clarksgocamping said:Thanks I don’t have air brakes they are hydraulic only the emergency brake is air. I have it at a repair shop now. He doesn’t seem to be familiar with this system.There are no other shops around and I’m on top of a mountain
Should be an adjustment for the cable on the end of the cylinder.
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Sorry for your trouble. The Flair is one of the lowest of the entry level models they make. If you go up a few models they are about average. I have an older Fleetwood Discovery that is fairly well built.
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20 hours ago, ERIC@BABIN.COM said:It's always something.... Day 1 of our 4 week trip and our #2 A/C unit is crapping out.
Symptom: When the compressor tries to kick on amps JUMP big time, compressor shuts down, fan blows fine, but obviously not cold.
I'm thinking of just replacing the entire unit rather than spending a crap load of money on troubleshooting etc....
Two questions.... for a 2014 Itasca (Winnebado) Ellipse (Tour) is this the correct unit? https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner/air-conditioners-coleman-dometic/coleman-mach-8-135-wt_08.0214?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl9-h2Zm1_otnKrtJ58e5cNtYCQcI_9YO47UgWV9-YtEfWShofBnnR4UaAjaaEALw_wcB
Question 2- How difficult would this be to replace myself other than the hassle of getting the 90lb unit to the roof?
I changed one of mine. I hung an electric winch in the rafters and made attachments under each of the 4 mounting screws for the cover. Unbolted everything on the inside and lifted up, drove out and let the old ac to the floor and hooked up the new one and hoisted it up and drove underneath and lowered it down in place. Took about 1/2 hour.
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Shore or gen power? Check the voltage at the AC.
Invoice Pricing From Freightliner/Chrysler
in Toads-Towed Behind Motorhome
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My understanding is you must be a Freightliner Club member to get the discount.