boguslaw

Not much interest in this one but I did call Atwood who suggested it was the sail switch. I bought another and installed it and it worked for a while. When it wouldn't start, I started messing with the wiring (the only thing left) and it is working now. I believe it was a ground wire in the safety circuit that has both the sail switch (which verifies air flow) and the high temp shutdown.

They said to check the voltage. I'm not sure where they meant to do that so I checked the power coming to the board and it was 13.5 v. I intended to check it at the motor during the start cycle, before I got the low air flow light but it read zero.

I looked for similar topics in the forum but nothing addresses my issue exactly. I have a 2007 RV with two Atwood 8520 furnaces. The front one won't run. I get the single blinking trouble light which means low air flow. The blower does not start, hence the low air flow. I put 12v directly to the blower and it runs fine. I checked voltage to the unit and get 13.5v and I switched the control board with the rear heater that works fine and no change( the rear still works, the front still doesn't). Since I get the single blinking trouble light after turning it on at the thermostat, I assume the thermostat circuit is working. I did hear a noise once during startup, like the blower was maybe trying to turn but when I went outside and tried to duplicate the noise(by removing the cover and listening while my wife turned on the unit inside), it won't start at all, so I'm not sure of the noise. I might suspect the sail switch or the high temp limit switch but I don't get far enough in the start cycle for those to be the problem. There just aren't any other parts and very little wiring to know what else to look at. Any ideas? Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

I am in the process of doing this exact conversion. I had a dedicated 120v feed from the panel which will need to be moved to the inverter circuit but I was advised by someone who already did the conversion to also move the ground and neutral wires over, not just the hot wire. It sounds like you were already planning that because you said Romex, which is all three conductors. Someone wrote a nice write up on the Samsung Digital Inverter Compressor on IRV2.com. Sounds like we are all set with the MSW inverters. Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

Thanks for replying to my concern regarding ventilation. It makes sense as my fridge at home just vents into the room from under the front. This one will be the same. I removed some of the gas piping(because it would have interfered with the lower floor) and capped it off. I also capped the icemaker connection and ran another feed from an RO unit I installed previously under the sink. Need the clear ice cubes. The new floor is high enough(by 1/4"!) to allow the the drain piping and the flexible hoses to the slideout to remain unobstructed. I'm not sure I'll ever need access there again but if I do, I can slide out the fridge and remove the new lowered floor as it is attached with screws. Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

I also removed the floor and lowered it but I removed the drawers under the Norcold to make room for the Samsung. So far, so good. I think I should seal off the vents in the rear access door and in the ceiling since the fridge won't be sealed off like the Norcold was. If I don't seal it, we'll get hot or cold air from outside coming in the coach. If I do, will I have sufficient ventilation for the Samsung? Anybody go through this have an opinion? I was unable to open the Motorhome article on this subject which might have answered this question. Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

How about an update? I'm ready to order one myself but want to see how you make out.

I had Road Kings installed on a Country Coach. Very disappointed. I did the front ones first because I had just replaced the rears with new Bilstiens(original Equipment). Then when there was only a slight improvement I did the rears for another $1000 installed. Very slight improvement there so I contacted the salesman and had the fronts redone. Had more improvement but when I contacted them again about another adjustment, he wanted to sell me the 3" version. I said no mas. Still bouncing and swaying down the road, Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

Thanks for responding, Rich. It looks like the rear part of the slide is the full 3/4" while the front is closer to the 1/2". It must only straighten up when it is all the way in and hitting the stops. Excessive play in the gearing makes sense and that test you prescribed would confirm it. I'll give it a try. Jim Boguslaw 07 Counrty Coach Tribute

I have a 07 Country Coach Tribute that uses PowerGear motors to operate the slides. The kitchen slide will open and close normally but will extend 1/2"-3/4" while driving. It's been fine for years so this is a new issue. I know from reading previous posts and reviewing a PowerGear manual that the motors have a brake. I suspect that after closing(or opening) the brake is engaged and holds the slide in its extended or retracted position. Does this sounld like a brake issue? Fortunately, the slide only moves out a small amount. I think I should address it before it decides to move a lot while driving! Any help would be appreciated. I read a lot of slide issue posts but none seem to match my situation. Jim Boguslaw 07 Country Coach Tribute

I have used the Protect-a-tow for 4 years now and have had good results. I like the ease of installation(only a couple of minutes to install or remove) and the effectiveness. Only minimal new road damage since getting it. Relatively inexpensive as well(around $225). I see RoadMaster came out with a similar one costing about twice as much but it looks more robust. Jim Boguslaw 07 Country Coach Tribute 08 Jeep Liberty BlueOX towbar with Protect-a-tow

Too bad. That was a nice place. Jim Boguslaw 07 Country Coach Tribute

The flange of the lense sticks to the vinyl ceiling material. Slip something in behind the lens flange, like a credit card and work it all the way around. Then twist the lens off with your fingers. Good luck.

I wondered how we would survive our first rally. I loaded up with fresh water and emptied the waste tanks. 4 days later I had a half a tank of fresh and only partially filled the waste tanks. We ran the generator about an hour/day to charge batteries and to make coffee and see the morning news. The rest of the day we were off at seminars and looking at all the supplier's wares. Evenings were organized entertainment. A lot of fun and didn't need a source of water, or to dump tanks or the need for electricity or even a fire. Give it a try! Jim Boguslaw 07 Country Coach Tribute

As a followup, I took it to Premier MotorCoach in Tucson who said it needed a compressor, therefore the whole unit should be replaced as it is not cost effective to replace a compressor. I bought one on line from PPL Motorhomes in Houston for $812 plus $175 shipping and installed it myself in a few hours. I don't know what a motorhome service place would charge.

I have a pair of these roof mounted units, like most, and the front can deliver a 30 deg temp drop while drawing 11 amps, the rear can only drop the air temp by 10 deg and will only draw 5.2A. I took it to a place and they said I need a new compressor and if so, change out the whole unit. I'm guessing they are right but just wanted a second opinion. It seems odd that it works, partially, but needs a new compressor. Is there a loading valve that isn't operating correctly(it may be integral to the compressor and the prognosis is the same). I had the cover off and it looks brand new so I hate to replace it but if that's the answer.... It's a RV Products model 9024, the low profile with the external fan. Someone please tell me if I should toss this unit for another or if there is a possibility to saving it. Jim Boguslaw Country Coach Tribute 2007

I understand there are a few hundred spaces for this rally. I was wait listed but later confirmed -- more than a month ago. I'm not sure why there is so much advertising when there are so few spaces. Jim Boguslaw

I had the same issue on a Carefree of Colorado awning. Heavy crosswinds unfurled part of the awning, then it tried to open (the arms moved a foot or two). I was able to pull off the highway and wind it back in(with the motor), duct tape the aluminum fabric cover down and continue on my way. Premier RV in Junction City changed the motor but I kept it to see what the issue was. The failure was not apparent but after reading some posts on this forum, I was able to determine the hub that bolts to the reel tube (that the fabric winds on) slipped from the output drive of the motor/gear assembly. There seemed to be excessive play in the flat part of the output shaft and the hub. The hub is cast aluminum. I emailed Carefree who confirmed they made a design change and the new ones have two flat spots on the shaft. I don't know if the one that was installed was of the new design. I also saw on this forum a way to fix the old one so now I have a spare. I filed out the hub to make room for a shim so the output shaft and hub fit tight. I also made a safety hold-down similar to that described by ClayL, just in case. Mine isn't as user friendly as I am unable to hook/unhook it from the ground with the awning rod. I'll probably change it. I had the thing unfurl 2 other times, never a good thing as it's hard enough to drive in cross winds without wondering if the awning is going to open. I paid for 2 motors and Carefree replaced one under warranty. Jim Boguslaw 2007 Country Coach Tribute

I wasn't there but I would also like to thank you for your service and dedication to our country. May God bless you. Jim Boguslaw, Another grateful American citizen

I know this topic is a year old now but I had the same problem-- on 3 motors! It took the third one to finally get me to look at what failed, when it happened on the road and the awning started to open on its own. After our trip I brought the motor home(was replaced at a shop) and I had one of the original ones in the garage. After investigating, I realized there was nothing wrong with the motor or any of the gearing, just the problem you described-- the final output shaft is slipping in the drive hub. The shaft has a flat spot machined into it but the hub fits loose on it, allowing it to turn sometimes, because the hub is made of some kind of soft metal that yields, and presto! the awning will start to open when driving. Not a comfortable experience, side of the road, trying to wrap it back up and duct tape the thing together until it could be fixed. Working on a ladder, on the side of the freeway. I emailed Carefree just today to see if later versions(like the one I currently have installed) are any different. They said they made a design change in July 2008 that added a second flat spot on the shaft. My second motor replacement was in 2010 so I guess Holland Motors used an obsolete part for the replacement. I didn't verify the design of the one installed last month. I did a simple repair on my "spares" as John Harris describes. It took about 15 minutes to file a slightly bigger slot in the hub to allow fitting a piece of metal. I used a jigsaw blade for the right width and I liked the hardness. Jim Boguslaw

Thanks, Brett. I knew I could count on you for the answer. What you said makes perfect sense. Jim Boguslaw

I met a fellow RV'er that owned a diesel truck repair shop in a former life and he recommended using a diesel fuel additive. His reasoning was that the new diesel fuel lacks the lubricity of previous versions and we RV'ers are more likely to incure failures in pumps and injectors as a result. I've seen additives used to stabilize fuel for storage but not for this. I couldn't find any other info on this topic. Can anyone else comment? If advisable to use one, any particular brand? Jim Boguslaw Country Coach 07

This is a very interesting thread for me as I was just at a shop having oil changed and a lube job when the Tech noticed I had two broken rear shocks. These are Bilsteins on a 2007Country Coach Tribute. With all the problems with the older units I thought they would have fixed this issue. It looks like the shocks were pulled apart from over extension, which I guess could be the wrong ride height. You would think they had shocks installed with sufficient travel so they are are not the primary travel limiter. Now I have two new ones, at the tune of $600 which, no doubt the same travel, waiting for it to happen again. should I have the ride height checked? Would that be enough to fix it so I don't break them again? Jim Boguslaw

Thanks Brett. The Cat owner's manual I have doesn't specifically cover RV applications so your reply makes way more sense than what I read. Jim Boguslaw

The manual shows having the valve lash checked at 100,000 mi or 2 yrs. 2 Years in an RV is a lot different from an over the road truck so is this maintenance item really needed every 2 years? My Cat C9 is 3.5 yrs old and only 16k miles so do I really need to have this service done? What is everyone else doing when the mileage and age requirement are so different? I understand the requirement for filters or oil because they can deteriorate even without operating but valve lash adjustment? Thanks- Jim Boguslaw 07 Country Coach FMCA member for a whopping year