Aircherokee

My Fleetwood is good at out running the authorities. 🤣

*** FOLLOW UP WITH SOLUTION *** If you read the post I just submitted, you'll see I found an amazing local wiring guy who fixed two of my electrical problems. This guy had the patience and eyesight to figure out what was actually going on. If you read my first post, you'll see the problem I was having. The cause was the wiring loom going to the rear of my Fleetwood separated from where it was attached to the frame directly over the muffler. This caused the loom to drop down and touch only when the motorhome was under torque, caused the circuit to short out only when it was moving. This caused the running lights to short out. Bizarre.

***** FOLLOW UP WITH REVISED SOLUTION ***** Previously, I wrote that when I replaced the brake light switch (see above pic), my shift interlock problem was resolved. Well it didn't solve the problem and I wanted to wait to post how we actually fixed it after the problem got resolved (note the original date of my post and you can see how long it's been before we found the solution). Here's the recap: Driving on a trip, when my Fleetwood transitioned from the pavement to the dirt road, my brake light came on my dash. When we stopped, we weren't able to get it out of park. After diagnosing the problem, here's the bizarre chain of events. I don't fault Fleetwood or Ford, but here's what we figured happened. The main wiring loom (16 wires I believe) that connects under the dash never got "snapped" together when the connector was originally installed. When the motorhome hit the bump transitioning from pavement to dirt, the connector pulled apart just enough to make just ONE row on my in cab dashboard fuse panel to go dead. This caused either the diode (see attached pic #1) to blow then short the shift interlock device to fail (see attached pic #2) or visa versa, I'm sure someone more versed in electrical can clarify that. Who'd a thunk it!

I just wanted to share with other members about my recent call with Safeco Insurance. Spoke with a very helpful rep who answered my questions regarding my premium increase over last year. He was quoting a higher deductible to decrease my premium and when he matter of factly mentioned my RV's value, NADA industry rates shows my value as being $12,000 less than what my insurance coverage is at. He stated that I'd have to have documentation proving the value for anything over what the industry rates show. As a result, we modified my policy to match the industry value resulting in an annual premium savings of $247.80. With the savings, I figure it'll buy us a lot of "happy hour refreshments" that I can actually enjoy rather than paying unnecessary increased insurance premiums that won't taste as good. Just thought I'd share.

I did a search on FMCA and didn't find an article covering this so thought I could add an experience we just had over this past weekend that might help others who have a Ford F53 chassis. A remote lake west in Arizona has great boondocking around it. The seven miles of dirt road gets you to a really nice area that's not in a campground and has really great views. While driving there this past weekend, the moment we transitioned from pavement to dirt, my red "BRAKE" light on the dash came on. Brakes worked fine and figured it was something that could wait until we got to camp to take a look at. We stopped at a fork in the road to recon our camp spot with the dirt bike. When I got back to the RV, my wife who was going to follow me in to camp, flagged me down and said she couldn't shift out of PARK. After about an hour with a buddy helping, checking all fuses and even Googled the problem, we couldn't find anything online except for poor souls who had to have their RV's towed to a repair facility. We took apart the BRAKE SWITCH to see if we could bypass or jump it but no luck. Of all things, we checked the little Ford F53 manual and low and behold, there's a process showing how to temporarily bypass the switch. In our manual, the instructions were on page 58/59. Here is a snippet of the process. Attached is a pic of the switch itself which is located just under the pivot point on the brake pedal lever. This procedure really saved our bacon, we would have had a much different outcome for our New Years trip if we hadn't found this "get out of jail free card" that saved the day. Keep in mind that you won't have brake or turn signals until the switch is replaced. I've since ordered a new brake shift interlock switch to replace the bad one and an additional spare to keep onboard for the next time this happens. In my opinion, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" this will happen again. Hope this helps others who find themselves in a similar situation. Happy trails!

Thanks Rich, With the "one touch start", it's a function that I've seen, I'm sure you already know about, that's on most vehicles newer than 2010. Where you just have to "bump" the key and it starts the engine (and disengages the starter once it catches), versus the old days of holding the key until the engine caught. I started a case with Ford today and one of their tech's is supposed to be calling me back in a day or so. It stumped the first person I spoke with so it may in fact be exactly what you're talking about, we'll see. I was thinking today that once I do find the solution (how's that for optimism?), I'll be sure to post it on this forum in case someone else runs into the issue down the road. Thanks, Ken

Rich, Thanks for taking the time for the thoughts. Below are my answers. Ken, reaching on this one, but it sounds like the fuse only blows when starting the coach. If you replace the fuse while the coach is running does it blow or not? Yes, only blows after the coach is running. Tried changing while it was running and blew the fuse after a couple of minutes. Doesn't blow the fuse when the coach isn't running. If the marker lights are off does the fuse blow? Also what is the fuse number and is it in the outside fuse box or the one inside the coach? No, the fuse only blows when the marker (or headlamps) switch is turned on while the engine is running. Here is a snapshot of the exact fuse (M12 and I are on a first name basis now - and will admit that versions of his name changes as this issue continues)

It sounds like I'm in good company!

Good question, in this motorhome, it has separate fuses that operate each turn signal, I considered that but the turn signals work fine regardless of whether the markers work or not. Issue only came on when we took a long trip and added our toad. (I always try to think back to "what changed") so I isolated the toad by taking out the round to flat adapter from the trailer plug and the same scenario occurs. For what it's worth, when I have the toad hooked up (1985 Jeep that I've towed with other units just fine), it blows the taillight fuse on my toad at the same time it blows the fuse on my motorhome. The plot thickens?

Good question. I've tried it in all the scenarios I can think of, lights on with engine off, then engine on and turned the lights on. Common denominator is the issue only happens when the engine is running. Also, it's regardless of whether I'm driving or sitting with the engine on (thinking excess vibration). Thanks!

Wolfe10, Your point regarding what else may be on that circuit is a good question. I'll call Fleetwood and see if they're able to tell me. Thanks!

Hello everyone, I have a 2011 Fleetwood Storm 28' with the Ford F53 chassis. We bought "Stormy" (as my kids nicknamed her) with 6,300 miles, now have 14,000 on it. My electrical issue came on only in the last 4,000 miles and about five months ago (trying to give some context). My running (marker) lamps are now shorting out with no rhyme or reason why. Here's the scenario. If I have my motorhome sitting with either the marker or the marker/headlights turned on, all lights work perfectly and ALL marker lights will remain on indefinitely. As soon as I start the engine, it takes about three minutes before the 20a fuse blows and the markers go out. Headlights, brake lights, turn signals all work fine, just the markers go out. I've read posts regarding pulling each light to isolate, that along with isolating the rear wiring harness from the front wiring harness, but haven't tried it yet since they all work fine with the engine turned off. Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken