floydfowler

I agree but still don't understand why these two are not connected in parallel with the other four house batteries. Added a disconnect switch on the negative side of these two and I guess we will add another disconnect switch to the negative side of the four battery bank. Planning to add one on the two 12 volt starting batteries as well.

On a 2021 Discovery LXE, we have two 6 volt batteries in series just to the rear of the 4 house batteries but they are not wired to the 4 house batteries. These are in addition to two 12 volt starting batteries wired in parallel. What is the purpose of the two batteries? Trying to add disconnect switches to all of the batteries.

I recently was performing annual maintenance on my 7500 Onan generator and was very surprised to find a foreign object in my previously clean drain pan. After draining the oil and changing the oil filter, I moved on to the fuel filter. While replacing the fuel filter, I dropped the retaining nut and naturally it fell into the drain pan full of used, very black oil. I dumped most of the oil out and located the missing nut in the bottom of the pan, along with the cigarette butt shown in the photo. I have never smoked so I know someone else along the way decided to drop the butt into the oil pan of the generator. I could not find a part number for the butt in the Onan manual so I left it out. Hopefully, it will operate just as well without the butt!

Thanks Bill. I failed to mention that I use Clear Diesel and Diesel Kleen at very fill-up. I am going to hit the tank again with BIO KLEEN DIESEL FUEL BIOCIDE as soon as I can find it. I have a bottle at home but I'm on the road now. I used my spare filters last week in Tenn. and stopped in Knoxville at the Cummins Dealer and bought two more sets. (Very nice folks and two minutes off I-40). Side note: Last summer I stopped at an Advance Auto in Oklahoma to pick up some Clear Diesel and they had the 80 oz. bottles on close out. I bought all they had (6-80 oz. bottles) for $0.05 / bottle. Clerk was surprised but said "oh well, that's what the computer shows". I almost ran to the car to show my wife the receipt. Best I can find now is about $30 / 80 oz.

UPDATE Changed both filters again (at 3,000 miles) and found small black particles in the primary (FS 1242, 20 mc) filter but nothing noticeable in the second (FS 1022, 10 mc) filter. Drove it about 5 miles and the light flashed once then off and now 600 miles later still no problem. I am now sure I just have a dirty/algae fuel issue and have been thinking about adding a second FS 1242 in parallel to get more filter capacity while I work on getting the fuel cleaned up. Also just noticed that the primary filter is before the lift pump and the second one after the lift pump. Sure would be great if that fuel contamination is my only issue.

Ray, forget about that electrical connection and take care of yourself. 209/94 is very scary! I've driven it 40k miles that way so I think it will be just fine.

Ray, thanks for the additional info. I see no sign of any fuel around or under the pump or on the engine. I too hope you will take it easy and wish you the best of health! Floyd

Also, I noticed the electrical connection you see in the top of the photo has nothing plugged into it.???

Does your pump look like this? I was expecting 7/16" bolts based on info from the thread. Anyway, these three bolts are tight

Ray, Thanks for all the information! I followed all the threads and now my head is spinning. I will start with the pump bolts and keep my fingers crossed. We purchased this used motor home with 30,000 miles three years ago and I don't know about any previous issues but we did have quite an issue with algae and clogged filters. We had an on the road engine failure on our first trip that was due to completely clogged primary filter. I treated the fuel tank with biocide twice and have used Clear Diesel and Diesel kleen at every fillup since. I change the filters every 10k miles or so and have not seen one clogged in the last 40,000 miles but do occasionally see some small particles in the clear bottom of the primary filter. I have never seen any particles in the water separator filter. We leave on a three week trip in two days so I am feeling pressure to get to the problem .. Also thinking about changing the lift pump gasket. Thanks again for your input.

Our 2001 Holiday Rambler Imperial with cumming ISC 350 has warning light flashing on randomly. I occasionally had similar problem last year when on long uphill pulls and solved it by replacing the ambiant air sensor. I have a Scan Gauge code reader connected and last year I was getting codes 94 and 98 which Cummings Customer service indicated problem with the sensor. Now I saw code 98 very briefly and then no codes stored. I replaced the sensor again but now get the light flashing on randomly even when not pulling uphill. I noticed a slight loss of power when the light flashes on and the boost pressure drops down some and right back to normal. I have changed both fuel filters with no improvement. Engine starts and runs normally for hours and then the light will flash on once or twice and then back to normal. Any thoughts?

Ok, I finally found the sliding mirror door manufacturer, Renin Corp. their products appear to be just like my old doors but with upgraded bottom and top rollers. I had good conversation with manufacturer's customer service rep and he referred me to Lowes or Home depot to order the non-stock size I needed. I stopped in at the local Lowes and got the door ordered. Their brand is Reliabilt but manufacturer is Renin Corp. They have several finishes available and DW wanted brushed nickle so that is what we got. Price with NC tax is $223.73 (military discount) and ready for pickup at store in 21 days. Another problem solved but I know another opportunity with pop up soon enough, always does! 😎

Guys, thanks for the replies. I will follow Rich's suggestion with contacting the manufacturer tomorrow. We really like the look of the mirrors as they make the bedroom appear much larger, according to the DW ,so enough said about that. These doors have a backing on them to prevent shattering of the glass. I haven't checked locally yet to see if it is available. We just returned today from a five week trip out west to Wy. and points between but I plan to get on this tomorrow.

I need to replace closet door which has cracked but would like to replace entire frame and hardware as the finish is peeling off and rollers are worn. Sticker says Consolidated Glass Mirror but I have been unable to locate any info on them.

Conclusion: With Kay's kind assistance we went through the system and determined that all is functioning as designed and batteries are getting required charge. Ready for the road now! Many thanks again to all who contributed !

That is with both battery switches off and measuring from relay post to chassis ground terminal in left side of panel. With both switches on I read 12.78 from house side to chassis ground and 12.62v from chassis post to chassis ground.

Good Morning Kay, Before I get started with the above tests I wanted to tell you about my latest weird happening. First I will explain that the step cover at passenger's seat is normally retracted with chassis battery on and extends when the chassis battery is switched off. Last evening after I took the voltage readings at the relay I realized that with chassis battery switch off the step cover did not extend but the ignition and dash instruments had no power. I did not think much about it since the relay had power on both terminals. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about the problems and suddenly remembered that I had left both battery switches on. Then I began to worry that I might be draining the batteries as the shore power was also off (to eliminate the inverter/charger from the mix) so I got up and went out to turn them off (3:00 am) and as I did I heard the step cover closing. Switched chassis battery back on and cover retracts as it always has. Really getting curious now, I checked the voltage from chassis ground to both posts of the relay and NO VOLTAGE!! Still had 12v from neg terminal to positive terminal on the alternator. I just rechecked it to be sure I wasn't sleep walking or dreaming and I get the same results. I will now recheck for voltage at the relay posts with engine off and engine running and the ground back on the LE 415. Floyd

I will get right on it in the morning if the weather will cooperate...lots of rain predicted here. Many thanks again for all your help!!

I ran across these interesting photos of 2002 Monaco panels that are very similar to mine except for the item no. 7, relay, Bidirectional Isolator. Maybe an improvement? 1 Electrical Panel Passenger Side 2.pdf 1 Electrical Panel Passenger Sider 1.pdf

I guess I had not noticed the discharge of the chassis batteries because I always plug in to shore power while parked .

Took ground wire of LE415, no change. Same as before, voltage to both terminals of relay to chassis ground.😞

Could this be related to the 12 volts I see across the alternator terminals when I should not have any voltage across the terminals?

I just checked the voltage at the large relay terminals with engine off, 12.9 volts to chassis ground at both terminals. With engine running, 14.3 to both terminals.

correction, should have been 0.3 ohms between the battery neg post and chassis ground.

Rich, First I must thank you for being so thoughtful in getting me help in your absence. I hope all went well with your appointments. Now let me tell you how dumb I really am....I was taking alternator reading upside down and confused positive and neg terminals of the alternator. Rechecked readings correctly and now I read positive 12.6 volts between pos and neg post on alternator and 12.6 volts between positive post and chassis ground. Also, read 3 ohms between battery neg post and chassis ground. Hope this makes more sense but I lam still concerned that I get 12v across the pos and neg terminals as the tech tips says it should be zero.