billkoboldt

I originally had a ground wire to all 4 lights. The two lights that control the tail lights are connected directly to the bar. The right turn/brake and left turn/brake lights were connected to the tail lights by connecting a bracket to them. I disconnected all the ground wires and connected the ground from the pigtail to the left turn/brake light. I then connected a ground wire to the stud on the right turn/brake light and connected that to the bar.Then I spliced into the ground wire under the hood and connected to the negative side of the battery and that solved my problem. It's weird how one wire can cause such a big headache. Thanks to everyone for their assistance Bill.

Thanks everyone for the info. Will play around with different ground points today. Bill.

I don't understand how I am getting cross feed. The yellow wire from the pig tail goes to the left turn signal and the green wire goes to the right turn signal. The brown wire is for tail lights. Unless I am getting cross feed from the ground wire, because all the lights are grounded to the same wire. Maybe I should run a separate ground wire from the negative post on the battery to the brake lights. I have thought about LED lights but haven't taken the time to look into it. I used the same light bar on a 2007 Saturn Vue and the same problem. Bill.

No, they are 1157. I mounted 4 lights on the light bar that I made. The 2 inside lights use only one of the elements for tail lights. The outside lights are for right and left turn and brake lights. None of the bulbs uses both elements. The turn and brake lights are wired the way they should. The other lights are for tail lights only. The light fixtures are bolted to bare metal, so I should have a good ground. Bill.

I have a light bar that I slide into the trailer hitch receiver on my 2011 Honda CRV. I have four lights on it, two for left and right turn and brake lights. The other two are for tail lights. If I have the tail lights turned on and turn on either turn signal, the two tail lights have a slight flicker to them. The wires run from the front of the car and plug into the light bar. The other end plugs into the plug from the motorhome. Would be alright driving in the daytime, but at night the person behind me might be a little confused with lights blinking on both sides. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Koboldt. F148740

Am I right in assuming I can charge the battery in my Honda CRV by running a hot wire and a ground from the hot and ground terminals that are on my 7 way trailer plug that is on the motorhome? The fuses are so small and hard to get that I don't really want to mess with them. I haven't set the CRV up for towing yet because I still tow my 07 Saturn Vue. That car I just installed a toggle switch under the hood to bypass the fuse. Works great, been using this set-up since the summer of 2007. Never had a dead battery, even after 10-11 hours of towing. Do start it up each time I gas up the motorhome.

The coils on the back of the refrigerator remain cold and the fridge does not cool down. The heating element does get hot, but doesn't cool the fridge. It does't have fans and the outside access door is vented along with a vent on the roof. The coils on the back get hot when on gas, but not on 120. Thanks for your reply.

We have a Dometic model #RM2852 2 way refrigerator. The coils on the back will get hot when on gas, which tells me it is working good on gas. The problem is with 120 power. The heating element will get hot, but the coils continue to be cold, even after 1 hour. Never took that long before, just started having the problem. I was wondering if I am correct in assuming the problem is with the heating element, or should I look elsewhere or take it for service.

I don't know if we are on the same track. My motorhome was wired from the factory with a 7 pin trailer connector. I plug into this for tail and turn signals on the towed car. It has a pin that is hot all the time and also a ground pin. All I would do is add another wire to the car end of the plug to go to the positive side of the battery and one to the ground side. That way it seems to me it would charge the towed car from the starting battery of the motorhome as I am driving.I know I would have to put an in-line fuse between the car battery and the connector on the motorhome. The length of the two wires would be about 6 to 7 feet long.

In the Sept 2012 issue of Family Motorcoach, there was an article about running a 12 volt charge line to keep the towed cars battery charged, also in the last two issues in Tech Talk this was addressed. They all said to run the line from the coach battery. Why can't I run a wire from the 7 way trailer connector from the hot terminal in the connector to the towed cars battery. I also assume I would need to run a ground wire from the connecter to the negative side of the towed cars battery. The motorhome has a 7 way connector that I use for connecting the lights to the towed car. The 7 way connector has a hot terminal and a ground terminal. I will be using 8 gauge wire for the set-up along with a 20 amp in-line fuse on the positive wire.

The problems with the wheels were the bearings. Earlier Saturn Vues had a problem with the wheel bearings going bad. I know a friend of mine who has had his replaced at least 2 times, and he doesn't tow his. I understand it is an on going problem if you tow. In reference to the switch, I did that to my Saturn after the first time I towed it. Much easier flipping a switch than pulling a fuse. Thanks for the replies.

I have a 2011 Honda CRV I am thinking of towing behind our motorhome. I now tow a Saturn Vue. The Honda owners manual says to pull #34 fuse, which is a 7.5 amp fuse for the radio, so it don't run the battery down. Does anyone know if I don't pull that fuse and turn off the radio and run a hot wire from the 7 way connector to the Honda battery if it is still necessary to pull the fuse. Also, has anyone ever had any wheel problems with the CRV as do some Saturns. So far I haven't had a problem with 71000 miles on it. Any info would be appreciated.

After putting an electric heater in front of the inside vent yesterday, today with outside temp of 20 degrees, the furnace started right up with no problem. No electric heater needed this time. Yes, it will start up after it initially get it running. It is an Atwood hydro flame furnace, 8900-III series. The owners manual does not have any trouble shooting information in it. Thanks for all the information from everyone. Bill.

I have had a problem with my furnace in a 2003 class A Coachmen. If the weather is 25 degrees or colder the furnace will not ignite, nor will the fan start. The batteries are fully charged and it is plugged into shore power. The other day I put a small electric heater about 8 inches away from the air vent inside the coach and turned it on high for about 15 minutes and then it started. Anybody out there know what the problem could be. I have no problem with it during cool mornings in the spring or fall. Thanks for any help.

You may want to check to make sure you have the key in acc. position. I think you will find you have it in the run position. The dash lights should not be on in the acc position. I have a 07 Saturn Vue and if I turn the key to the run position, I have to turn it back one more click to the acc position. Dash lights should not be on in acc position.