monacowatts

For those who might be interested here is how I bolted down the front and eliminated the plastic cover for the feet. You can also see the plastic trim on the wood frame. Makes for a finished look.

Clearance needed is 1" to combustible material. Air intake on the heater is both on the front top and right side. So losing 3/4" separation is not much of an issue as far as heater operation is concerned.

Here is the finished installation. Used plumbers tape from the two top door hinge brackets run across the top and down the back to a turn buckle secured to the framework for the floor. Much stronger than putting a couple of lag bolts through the fridge sheet metal bottom.

I made a metal framework for the fridge to sit on. Then added a sheet metal floor. 1/4" air gap above the heater. Does not get hot at all. Floor is open on the sides for added air flow through the louvered front cover below the fridge.

Home Depot installers brought my RF18 through the door on my 2008 Safari Cheetah (pretty much a Knight with a few extras). Moved both seats out of the way and covered the corners of the dash with heavy cardboard (just in case). All the installers had to do was remove the RF18 doors and put them back on after it was in the coach. No big deal. I too have a furnace under the fridge. Required lowering the fridge platform down closer to the furnace and trimming about 2 inches of the wood work at the top of the opening. Was able to keep the existing louvered furnace cover without modification.