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  1. Motorhome repair completed. Repair place did install replacement parts that matched factory items as best that they could. No codes showing up from the O2 sensors, when taken for test drive. Nice and quiet - just like before. As I stated earlier, we notified the storage facility that we were not coming back. They sent me a check for the last month rent, plus security deposit. I guess that was their way of making amends. I know that no matter where I store the motorhome, there will always be the potential for this to occur. As long as there is a market for the precious metals inside the catalytic converters, thieves will try to steal them. Its just too easy to saw them off exhaust system, and sell them to scrap dealers - even with laws in place to try and deter them. Limitations on quantity and confirmation/proof of ownership by VIN needs to be enacted. There needs to be a way to make stealing them - not worth the time and effort to get anything of monetary value back in return. I'd love to invent a mechanism that renders the converter valueless, if tampered with, or cost effectively add something to the exhaust system that would spray ink or dye all over the catalytic converter - thus identifying it as being tampered with. Unfortunately, I seriously doubt that they will ever find who sawed mine off. I just hope it doesn't happen again. Thanks for your comments, Mike
  2. Hi - I'm located in Michigan. Not sure if they caught anyone on their security camera, the storage facility wouldn't even look at the footage without me giving them a specific date that the theft occurred. They went on to say that the security footage is only kept for 2 weeks before it is erased and taped over. I no longer store my rig at that facility.
  3. Yes, I have spoken with the insurance company. My comprehensive will cover the repairs, less the deductible amount. Waiting for the repair guys and the appraiser to review the damages and determine what parts and labor will be covered.
  4. Well, Thanks for the thoughts everyone. I currently live in a state that doesn't require emission testing, so the real concern might be relative to reselling the rig sometime in the future - somewhere that does require it. I've talked to a number of people that have gone the less expensive route, and other than dealing with a flashing error code - they haven't had any other problems. All in all - I think I'll go with as close to factory cats as possible - I think it would be better in the long run.
  5. Not a happy camper … So, today I went to the storage facility to do the monthly check up, start and run the engine, etc... Was shocked to find that some hoodlum sawed both catalytic convertors out of the exhaust system. I'm sure I'm not the first to have these stolen, nor will be the last. The place has coded gate access and cameras all over the place - but, aside from the security (or lack there of) - I now have to find replacement cats for the 2009 38P Fleetwood Pace Arrow with a Workhorse chassis and a Vortec 8100 engine. I spoke with the repair guy and he wondered what I wanted to do? Replace with as close to factory representative catalytic convertors - or go with a less expensive option? I think he was referring to a resonator or straight pass thru pipe thus eliminating the catalytic convertor all together. Found some online at UltraRvproducts.com - but awfully pricy at over $1600 each (included full pipes also). I measured the pipe diameter and it is 3". The crooks were kind enough to saw so the hangers were all left in place (so thoughtful of them). I'm leaning towards replacing with as close to factory as possible - for fear the O2 sensors will throw codes if I don't. Thoughts? Mike
  6. Hello All, Just a heads up, regarding hearing buzzing noises or weird sounds. We purchased our 2009 Pace Arrow used a few years ago and went through the process of learning how things worked - as we went along. As with most new things, there was the normal amount of different kinds of noises, rattles, and squeaks. We mostly wrote them off as normal for a rig that was not brand new. Most of the noises were inconsequential, until we ran across the "buzzing behind the wall". We arrived at the campground and went through the normal hook up process. Everything went along as normal, except a few hours later the faint buzzing noise from behind the wall under the TV, was abnormally louder than it ever had been before. This signal that it was time to further investigate the source of the noise. After removing the access panel, we found a big gray metal box and a bunch of wiring going into it, and coming out of it. It was labeled "Transfer Switch", and it was clearly the source of the loud buzzing. And, now that we had the box out from the cabinet, there was a weird smell too. I'm a pretty handy guy, and not afraid of doing my own repairs - so, after digging through all the manuals and paperwork that came with the rig, and finding the one that matched the Transfer Switch - I read all about it. What it does? Installation instructions? etc... I switched off the power at the post, and removed the box from the mounting location. Then removed the metal cover. The photos attached shows what I found inside the Transfer Switch Box. As you can see, the insulation was melting from the wires. The "buzzing noise" was due to the Lugs (screws that hold the wire in place) NOT being tightened down with the correct amount of force. The relays (switches) that the wires were connected to are a vital part in the electrical system. I found a new "Transfer Switch" with the exact same part number at an RV dealer about an hour away, and purchased it that day. Replacing it was relatively easy, and I also purchased a torque driver to assure that the lugs were tightened down the specified amount. We now have a new line item to add to the annual check up list for the rig. We were fortunate that nothing worse happened, and this is a lesson learned that we thought would be good to share. Don't ignore those weird buzzing noises.
  7. Its been a while since you posted this concern, but I have had to rewire my shade and while doing so realized that the toggle switch looks like it may run through a relay to control the direction the motor runs relative to the toggle. Could be a bad relay that only works in one direction and not the other. Sorry if this is too late to help.
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