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tngleim

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Posts posted by tngleim


  1. Does anyone have experience with this remote lock?  I believe it's manufactured by Trimark.  Out of the blue the keypad has stopped working to lock/unlock the bay doors. This keypad has two combination codes, one for the bay doors and one for the entry door to the coach. The keypad still operates correctly to lock/unlock the entry door to the coach but the bay door combination code will not operate the lock/unlock function for the bay doors. If you have suggestions on this specific door lock please let me know. Thank you.

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  2. Well, I heard the most beautiful diesel engine ever running a short time ago.  Yes, the mystery has been solved.  After replacing about a half dozen cooked fuses I found the culprit in the rear distribution box.  It was a 15a fuse called VEC-2 Batt Transmission on the bottom left of the panel.  Once I replaced the fuse, a TCM light on the panel lit up and a short walk to the drivers seat revealed the transmission control pad was lit!  So the final results are...I replaced blown electrical bay fuses F10, F43, F45, F46, and F81.  F46 got the Valid system to fire back up, and F43/F45 eliminated the fault code I was getting on it.  In the rear distribution box I replaced the far left ANL 200a fuse and the VEC-2 fuse.  This coach does not have the VIM (Allison Transmission Box) that we were searching for.

    I'd like to thank you all on the forum for the interest and comments with my situation.  You have taught me a lot.  Also thanks to Beaver Coach Sales for their support.  It's comforting to have a community of great folks!
     

     

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  3. I replaced the fuse and it still won't start.  Herman, the 4 fuses on the other side are all good.  I did get a spark with I re-installed the batteries so that may be the root cause.  Kaypsmith, I'm not following the crinkled washer comment.  If your referring to the washers under the nuts holding the bad fuse, they looked normal.  


  4. I found what appears to be a blown 200A fuse in the distribution box.  I'm going to try to get it to it today (5 degree wind chill, yikes) or tomorrow before I go out of town for a while.  Here's a picture of the fuse, the one on the left.  Looks blown to me.

     

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  5. 5 hours ago, manholt said:

    tn.  Under electrical, there is a post about Allison 3000....look at it, he's got a Beaver also, and about the same problem you have...he finally found the problem!  Please read the last 2 or 3 entries!

    Thank you sir.  I'll take a look.


  6. 12 hours ago, richard5933 said:

    Have you checked the ground connections? These types of things can be caused by ground connections which are weak or failing. There should be at least a couple of these to check, maybe more depending on how yours is wired. One ground cable usually goes from batteries to a ground post on the chassis. Another would probably be found between your engine and the chassis. There might be another near your starter.

    If your ground connections are not good then enough juice can flow to temporarily have dash lights working, but as soon as you try the starter the ground connection cannot handle the current flow.

    Are the connections to your starter and/or starting solenoid clean and tight?

    Does your coach have a neutral safety which prevents starting when the vehicle is not in park/neutral? If so, is it working? On my GMC if the transmission is not neutral (or if the neutral safety switch sticks) nothing happens at all when I turn the key.

    Just a few things to double check.

    Thanks richard5933.  I'll pursue your ideas.


  7. Sorry about the font.  First off, thanks for the feedback on my post last week titled "House Batteries Not Providing Power.  Cannot Get Into Coach"  I had the batteries out being tested and by the time I got them back the post was closed (I didn't know that happened if I lagged in commenting).  I'm in the coach, I've got power to the house, I'm able to start the generator, but I've got another problem.

    When I put the key in the ignition and turn it one click the instrument panel lights come on and go through their cycle of flashing as normal.  Once that is done and I go to start it, nothing happens.  No noise at all.  I've also noticed that the lights that normally come on on the Transmission Shifter Pad do not light up showing what gear the transmission is in.  Additionally the Power Gear Pad which shows the airbag mode does not light up like it normally does.  I know the batteries are good, I've cleaned the posts and terminals, and I know its getting some power from the chassis batteries because I hear a beep when I turn the disconnect with from off to on.  Another reason I know there is power from the chassis batteries is the power door look operates when I have the switch on but does not operate when I have the switch turned off.  

    I'll attempt to attach pictures to give you a visual.

     

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  8. I'm a newbie RV owner.  I live in Ohio and we've had a bitter cold winter as you may know.  Our coach is stored outside, a 2007 Beaver Contessa 400HP CAT.  It has 2 12V chassis batteries (group 31 Interstate, dated 4/14) and 4 6V house batteries (Lifeline AGM's dated 6/12).  The last time I tried to start it, the chassis batteries cranked but the coach did not want to start so they ran low.  The house batteries were also low due to not having the residential refrigerator unplugged, thats another story.  Anyway,  I brought all them home to charge and they seemed to take the charge ok.  I then re-installed the chassis and house batteries.  I turned on the battery disconnect switch for both chassis and house.  Normally when the house switch is turned I'll hear a little beep indicating there is power.  This time I did not.  The coach has a door handle keyless entry and with no house power, it does not work, hence I cannot get into the coach to even try to start it.  Its one of the fancy door remotes that is a part of a handle that is screwed into the side of the coach to the left of the entry door.  Is it possible there is a non battery issue going on?  I have all 6 batteries out and being tested at a battery store just to rule out it being a battery issue.  I'm not confident that it is a battery issue as the house batteries were all reading around 6.25V when I put them back in the coach.  Any ideas is much appreciated as I am at a loss.

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