jc21014

Got it. Thanks.

What is the cost to use this program?

The 1st and 3rd contacts are somewhat brittle and partially eaten away for some reason so that is not an option. Right now, the main cord reel is direct wired into the Progressive EMS and looped into the electrical compartment when not in use. RV Cord reel manufactures to not sell repairable parts to the public but have been known to repair the problem(s) if the owners sends it to them.

After arriving back to the KC area, I disassembled the cord reel and found what the problem was. Two of the 3 metal contacts were badly pitted/corroded as was the metal cylinder they were in contact with. Will most likely not replace the electric cord reel with a new one but continue to store it in the electric bay as there has been no problems since wiring directly to the Progressive EMS switch. Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions.

Called Newmar and they show the orig reel that was installed in 2010 was a Glendining brand so the 1st owner had it replaced for unknown reasons with a Shoreline brand. Was able to find a mobile tech yesterday who responded to the cg we are at and he did remove the reel and install it directly into the Progressive EMS system. He has done this a number of times in the past as the contacts can become pitted and cause various electrical issues. Will run the cord this way until we get back to the KC area then decide if I will have a new cord reel setup installed. He also checked our Oasis system as it had a Heater Module Fault Light come on and the combustion fan light was blinking. He checked the system out then did a reset. Every fired up and is still working as I write this post. If it occurs again, then I might consider replacing the combustion fan.

In addition to my power cord electric giving me fits, the Oasis system gave an error message yesterday as we prepared to leave the cg in upper Michigan. the error message is: heater Module Fault red led is on. This apparently means the combustion fan has shot craps according to the Oasis tech I talked with. No diesel burner but according to the tech, I can still get hot water for dishes and showers by turning both ac elements on then off when done. This really sucks and is becoming a little annoying. In regards to the cord reel issue, I managed to find a number of past posts in Irv2 where others had similar issues due to the contacts becoming pitted. Seems most either replaced the reels, as they are not repairable or dumped the reel and wired the power cord direct to their ems system and coiled the cord inside the compartment after use.

The posts I remember seeing were in the last 6 months or so and caught my eye because this was the first cord reel that we had every had on a rv. I usually read what I call the big 4 rv forums; Irv2, rvnet, escapees, and fmca. I'm thinking it was most likely Irv2 or rv net but haven't found it yet.

Update. We left the CG in Holland, Michigan this at 11a this morning. Pryor to turning off the pedestal 50a breaker, I reached in and started to pull out about (3) ft more of power cord from the reel. Heard the transfer switch click and lost ac power to the coach. Quit pulling on the cord and the ac kicked on at 20 seconds as it should. Me thinks that something(wire connections/brushes) in the cord reel itself might be the culprit. We are now at a cg close to Mackinac Island for 4 days or so. Plugged in with no problems. I will check the cord reel for loose connections or try and find a mobile rv tech if one is available here. I know my limitations when it comes to electricity. I remember reading a discussion on another forum(?) about cord reels causing electical issues. Now to find which forum.

My tech friend and I have checked the replacement plug connections, ems/surge protection box connections and transfer switch connections. He also has checked the cord itself when I took it to the shop where he works.

That is one thing that I will do in 1-2 days. We spent a week in Shipshewana, Ind and now are in Holland, Mich, leaving tomorrow for St Ignace, Mich/Mackinac Island for 5 days. Have to admit this should have been checked for tightness but life has got in the way. At another posters suggestion who has had (2) previous Newmars with similar problems, I will check the neutral wire connection at the breaker box for tightness as that is what caused his similar problem in the past.

The Progressive EMS & Transfer Switch were replaced with new last Sept 2018. The current EMS was bypassed the latter part of June 2019 for several days with no problems. Had it rewired back before we left Missouri for the Newton, Ia park.

Last August 2018, we traded our 2004 Newmar DS Diesel Pusher for a 2010 Newmar Dutch Aire DP. In the following approximate time frame, 8/10/18-10/15/18, we travelled to no less than 8+- cgs, private & state but mainly private and encountered approx. "26" instances where ac power would shutdown for anywhere from 30 seconds-2 minutes. 99% of the time, the Progressive Dynamic hardwired system would show error message of E4, which is Line 1-Low Voltage. About the third week of Sept, I replaced the Progressive Dynamic EMS & the Transfer with new and noticed the 50A plug showed burn marks on one of the prongs and was loose where it went into the rubber plug itself. Headed towards Tx on about 10/15/19 and stopped at the dealer where purchased for a fridge exchange to a Samsung and had them replace the plug. The shutdowns seemed to stop after the plug was replaced with only error messages showing up after as described. Arrived in southern Tx for the winter and only had (2) issues from 10/20/18-4/26/19. The first was error code E2-Open ground and the second was the E4- low voltage-L2. Left and headed back north on approx. 4/27/19 and stopped at 4-5 CG's with no issues until 6/22/19 at which time we had (1) E4 error message. On 6/25/17, we had an incident of no power when we plugged in and ran generator for 2 hrs before trying the pedestal again. This time we had power. Took to an rv shop and had it checked and of course every thing ran fine. The tech talked with Progressives techs and every thing check ok when he ran there tests. On 6/30/19, no power when plugged in at a KOA in Newton, Ia, Tried another newer pedestal (2) hrs later and the power came on in the coach. In Shipshewana, Ind from 7/1/19-7/8/19 and had one incident where the 50A pedestal breaker tripped when I plugged a small vac into the 20A pluin of the pedestal. Reset and everything ran ok. We are at a cg n Holland, Michigan at this time and have had (1) E4 message only. Any rv electronic savvy people have any idea(s) what might be causing this fiasco?

Last Aug 2018, we traded our 04 Newmar DSDP for a 2010 Newmar DutchAire DP. Part of the trade involved replacing the front windshield which was cracked. We then left after several days and left on several trips until the latter part of Sept.2018. We then began gradually working our way back towards where we bought the MH for replacement of our rv fridge with the Samsung counter depth one prior to heading to south Tx for the winter. Several days before arrival at the dealer, I noticed a vertical water leak approximately in front of the pass seat. The "glue" used by the dealer apparently did not setup properly so they redid the top rubber seal/moulding that goes the top of the windshield. We then left for Tx and (1)week after arrival, the seal came loose again. Has anyone called Guardian Glass, Safelite or some other company that works on class A windshields and had them respond to fix a "seal" problem only. Would prefer to get this redone before leaving south Tx on 5/3/19. Any comments plse.

Thanks for the link. Will be checking what they have to offer.

Our current MH, 2010 Newmar Dutch Aire 4304, has (45) ceiling flush mount puck lights which have the 12v 10w G4 base halogen bulb in each one. I would like to "gradually" replace these with the equivalent LED bulb. Anyone with the same setup done this or could possibly furnish a part # for the LED bulb. Halogens have always seemed to hot for my taste.