edwardvan00

When researching our transfer switch issues. I came across the question of two red lights being lit on the 40250-RVC ATS. I'll quote from poster in irv2 forum: "Originally Posted by palehorse89 Per Southwire: The two red lights should be on. They indicate there is power going into the ATS. One light is for each leg of electricity in a 50 amp supply" Exactly an answer to the question I had about the 2 red lights on the Newmar 2014 Mountain Air ATS not transferring shore power. I'm assuming this is a normal condition.Our generator operates and reports to the Silverleaf Electronics Panel correctly because power was coming from the inverter while in storage. The depletion of the house batteries for inverting for about 3-1/2 hours the generator came on to replenish the batteries. Great that was functioning.The question I have is replacing the Surge Guard 40250-RVC with the now only available, Surge Guard 40350-RVC. I spoke to Silverleaf before ordering the 40350-RVC (from Amazon) if there was any "gotchas" or concerns to the TM102 module that communicates with the transfer switch operations, by either controlling the ATS or just reporting the conditions to the Silverleaf control panel(s)? I was wondering if the Silverleaf system controlled the ATS. The tech rep indicated nothing of the TM102 module should keep the ATS from operating. Replacing the ATS with the new (still waiting) 40350-RVC shouldn't be a problem. I guess I'll find out what variances there are with the 40250 vs the 40350 models. Removing the power reel from the ATS/Power Reel compartment was a challenge in itself. The mechanical removal was fine, but the 12vdc wiring needs to be extended to allow full removal from the compartment and lowered to the ground outside. Poor planning by engineering at Newmar for the DIYer. BTW there's a lot of electrical stuff tucked behind that wire reel and ATS. Fuses, solenoids, relays, and TM102 RVC module. Images are with power reel removed to the floor level still attached to ATS.

I mounted my FMCA plates , by implementing suction cups, and then drilled holes to attach my Escapees emblem to the FMCA plate. Pictures may be worth a thousand words... Hope this helps.

I'm in search of the most economical way to replace a hot water/glycol pump in the Oasis DM12 or similar distribution module. This system uses the ITR Oasis burner to heat the water/glycol fluid to circulate through 2 separate loops for hydronic heating as well as for hot water in the coach. I believe it is supplemented by the engines heat when it is running. My quest is to find a supplier for the 2 (maybe 3) pumps that are incorporated in the DM12 distribution module. When searching for the GRI (Gorman-Rupp) INTG2-103 pump, I come up with zilch. Gorman-Rupp has a new series INT3 pump on their website, but not knowing how to purchase one, I'm looking all over the web for a source. A bit of my findings was a replacement motor for $494 via Newmar vs. $295-from ITR. Still these prices are extreme, in my opinion. Anyone with knowledge of replacement or repairing these pumps is welcome to advise me, as this is a part I can probably live without, since I'm in a warmer part of the country, but may be helpful for others experiencing the same delema. Thanks in advance for whatever help is posted. Edited to add: I understand ITR is not using the GRI pump any longer, but don’t know the new supplier. These new pumps don’t need to be primed and run with water/glycol, in other words, they can be run dry without damaging the pump. DM12_Oasis_Distribution_Module.pdf DM12_Schematic_with_notes_and_flow_paths-Ed_Van_Malden.pdf

I think I agree with DickandLois and will forego any treatment and just maintain insurance coverage and keep my fingers crossed while driving. Money well spent this time. I’ll just lose my claim free discount and hope rates don’t rise to terribly. Being somewhat cautious as possible, I do like to maintain distances between those in front, if not for anything other than reaction to braking but also for the flying turkeys 🦃. Lol Thanks for all the replies.

Any ideas or thoughts on protective film for windshield protection. I’m having a windshield replaced by Safelite and would like to avoid the same experience again, if it can be avoided. The invoice to insurance was about $3500. Not sure how to remedy this for the future, or just continue to carry the comprehensive coverage with full glass coverage. It seems that with the high cost of these windshields on Class A MH, the insurance companies would promote a reliable protection plan, credits, or options. Will my premiums continue upwards, I hope not. In my investigation, I'm hearing you can't protect from an object getting hurled at 60+ mph from cracking the glass, no matter what film is installed, whether it is 4 mil or whatever, the thickness of a credit card, it's still going to impact and cause damage. Another vendor indicates about $1500(just a guestimate) to purchase and/or install material and may/maynot carry a warranty on the glass and the film, but full disclosure or knowledge was not really available, because of being a third party to the product. Not sure of the best product, but was inquiring about a material called ClearPlex. Anyone with ideas, knowledge or experience with this subject, please share. Thank you.