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Found 40 results

  1. Have 40' ft diesel pusher (2001 Monaco) w 2 ac's. One AC (front) works fine during the day and we turn it off at night. The other AC (rear) comes on at night and works until early morning (around 7), then shuts off and will not come on again until night. Had it checked and they say it is fine. Both AC's are left on auto at 69. Any suggestions?
  2. Vehicle: 2003 Holiday Rambler Ambassador. Last night we had a huge rain storm while parked at our RV park. Our lights went out and I thought we lost power, but the fan and printer were still on. We figured out that none of our lights work, nor the hot water heater or air conditioning. However, the outlets, TV, microwave, and fridge work. We have tried resetting everything and putting in new light bulbs, but nothing seems to be fixing the issue. Nothing is lit up on the power board. Any suggestions to fix this strange electrical problem?
  3. I am new to RVing and own a 2012 Itasca Sunstar 30' 30 amp. Soon after I buying our RV, I purchased a 30 amp surge protector and have used it consistently. I have stayed in many private and public campgrounds with no power problems. But recently I was staying at an private campground which I have stayed at three times before. It was warm (85) and was running the AC. Then the microwave started chirping (display light went off and on) and the AC stated flipping off and on. This lasted about 3-5 seconds and then everything returned to normal. I turned off the AC as soon as I could and then waited for a few minutes before I restarted the AC. I didn't have another episode until the next day with a similar pattern. It once happened in the morning without running any AC or heavy electrical devices. I tested the power with a volt meter but it showed between 116-120 volts. I could never capture the voltage reading during one of these episodes though. The surge protector never tripped during these conditions. I even took the RV into a dealer and had them check over my 120v systems and they ran the AC for four hours without incident. I then asked for a different site which had both 50 and 30 amp power but I still had these once a day problems. My question is - was I experiencing a low voltage condition that was not low enough to trip the surge protector? What are the symptoms of a low voltage condition? What else could I do to protect my RV from electrical issues?
  4. I was pulling out my hair, suffering sporatic blown flasher fuses, on a recent trip. Then, the flasher unit itself failed. It was a maiden voyage with our new-to-us Patriot Thunder, our guests rolled their eyes every time I slid open the window to signal with my arm, got honked at, pulled into a truck stop to change yet another set of fuses. Finally, I unplugged the dolly lights and didn't blow another fuse. Today, after three hours of diagnostics and disassembling the dolly electrical system, I finally spotted the culprit: two tiny bites on a pair of wires going through a brand-new finder to the light assembly bolted to the outside. Yes, after catastrophic blowouts on BOTH sides of the dolly due to inferior OEM tires, I had to install new fenders. They arrive prewired, are simply mounted and plugged in. Turns out, at the factory the person who installed the lights put so much pressure on the wiring where it passes through the 1/4" hole that the insulation was severed inside of 2,000 miles of use. Of course, none of the pass-throughs are engineered with a 20 cent rubber grommet to protect the wiring; so, this kind of failure was bound to be repeated, had I not wrapped the wires in thick rubber tape. It seems dollies are designed to sell, rather than to last.
  5. I own a 2008 Itasca Suncruiser and have a number of issues with my 12v electrical. I'm not sure if they are all related or not. First the coach heater that runs off the engine while driving has no power to the switch, but power at the fuse box. Second, the house batteries don't charge while driving... no 12 v power going to the battery mode solenoid. Third, no power going to the 6 amp breaker ( under the entry step) that controls the step when the engine is turned on and the 5 amp step alarm fuse (under the drivers side) keeps blowing. If anyone knows what might be causing all these issues, I would be very thankful. It's puzzled me for over 5 months. Thanks, M. Kenway
  6. On August 7 our 2005 Itasca Meridian experienced a short in the main ac wire bundle just aft of the shore power line attach point (aft of the left rear wheels). The fire occurred about 1:20 in the afternoon while we were out for the afternoon, and thanks to Good Samaritans in the park the fire was extinguished before the fire department arrived. Unfortunately, 90-95% of the smoke went up through the bed housing (through a 6 inch square hole in the floor- through which wires passed) and thoroughly coated EVERYTHING in the coach and killing our dog. The fire department tried valiantly to resuscitate our dog to no avail. Absolutely everything in the coach, even in closed drawers behind doors (as in the bathroom) was completely coated with a black, oily and highly toxic residue. The fire chief on the scene warned us to wear masks when entering the coach to retrieve personal belongings we thought we could salvage. Everything below the main floor (as in the basement) was OK, but the entire bedroom was completely water soaked as well as smoke filled. The Fire Marshal removed a covering of the main electrical distribution area inside the shore power compartment and found that an ac power line had rubbed on a 90 degree sheet metal corner and finally worn the insulation off creating a short which started the fire. I would advise anyone owning an Itasca made during this era to remove the covering (nominally 6 screws) and check the wire harness for chaffing and mitigate any potential rubbing of wire and sheet metal.
  7. I have a 30 amp motorhome and I want to install a receptacle in my garage 85 feet from breaker box. I plan on purchasing a newer MH in the future so I want to install a 50 amp receptacle. It's 85 feet from breaker to receptacle and 25 feet to motorhome. 50 amp power cords on motorhomes are typically 6/3 + 8/1 ground. The chart for electrical wire size says #4 for lengths over 100’. http://www.myrv.us/electric/ Is there any reason to use greater than #6 considering the MH power cord size? Is the distance of the MH power cord figured into the distance to determine wire size? Would #6 wire be sufficient? It seems to me running #4 wire 85’ through the attic only to have #6 for the last 25 feet would defeat the purpose of using #4. Thanks Charlie
  8. I have an FMCA friend that just had a considerable amount of damage to the left rear of his Challenger by Damon. A blowout caused several dilemmas for him. Wiring was pulled down out of the area above the wheel well looks like AC. DC coach wiring from the Workhorse chassis was torn apart in the wheel well. LP gas line was also damaged there. Two storage door latches were trashed. Lastly the bottom of his sewer compartment now has a rather large area torn out of it. Left side exhaust was cut off just before the turn towards the side of the body. Can anybody out there help out this poor soul? Would anyone know how he could get a wiring diagram? THANX in advance F28571
  9. What can be done about this error message? Is it possible to reset? If so what is the procedure?
  10. Need to reset my inverter, but don't the location. Thanks for any assistance. Gary
  11. I have a 2002 Monaco Dynasty with an intermittent 12 volt issue. The inside lights dim, sometimes to the point of failing totally. This doesn't seem to be consistent with any load conditions, and we are plugged into full shore power when this happens. I have a Trace inverter that was made and installed in the coach in 2008. The inverter remote panel shows 100% (or near that) charge, with house voltage no lower than 13.8 volts, up to 14.2 volts. When checking the inverter set up (we bought the coach used), I saw the batteries had been set up as GEL, but I had replaced these with FLOODED. Could this be a bad inverter that isn't sensing the coach load condition correctly, and is trying to figure out how much to charge?
  12. My unit is a National Seabreeze (2007). After having my batteries out of the unit for the winter, they were charged and reinstalled. Power to the coach is good, however there is no power to the chassis. The thermal circuit breakers at the battery cable connections are functioning properly. Any ideas????? Don
  13. I just pickup this 1986 Bounder. It's the 34' model. The problem is has is the head lights, radio and tv don't work. This happen according to the owner when the alternator was replaced. The fuses have been check. I was hoping maybe someone has the wiring diagrams for this the might be willing to share. I'd be willing to pay you for a copy Thanks, Bart
  14. Hello everyone. A little help for a rookie if you don't mind. My father purchased a 1999 5th Wheel Monaco McKenzie three years ago. It has sat untouched due to an illness he had. It is in brand new condition. (Literally never been used). I own a HVAC company so I am somewhat Tech Savvy, but I have no experience in dealing with DC systems or RV's. Any advice on the following problem would be appreciated. 1. The problem I am experiencing is with the 12 V system only. If I plug into house power all the appliances, pump, refrigerator, water heater, everything works just fine. 2. I have really weak power on a couple of the lights and the refer is on only during the day, which leads me to believe that it is only running off the solar system. 3. I installed 2 brand new 12 V marine Deep cell batteries, and triple verified that they are fully charged. So I can rule out battery problems 4. The issue is that I have no 12 V in the coach. I read a bunch of forums with regards to salesman switches, battery solenoid switches and battery disconnect switches. I can't find any of that anywhere on the RV. 5. It sounds to me like I have a failed solenoid switch, but I simply can't locate it. There are two switches as you enter the door, but turning those on does nothing. I have deduced from the forums that one of those switches shuts the battery off to most everything in the coach. The important stuff like the CO detector, and the fridge being the exception. The solenoid is rather large and I should be able to find it easy, but I can't find it anywhere don't even know if it has one. Thanks Dean
  15. HELP! Need advise and comments regarding major electrical damage do to Power Surge. We were in Mobile, Alabama during Hurricane Lee. The RV park power was hit by lightning and we had a MAJOR power surge melting our 50amp power line and burning the 12VDC and 110 VAC wiring in the coach--2007 Pace Arrow--as well as "doing in" all the electrical appliances and controls. The insurance company is stalling on what is will cover and what it will not. The RV dealer service department tells me, and the insurance company that it needs to "tear apart" the interior of the coach to determine what wires are damaged and what need to be replaced. The coach has been in the shop for a month now and I getting frustrated at the process and being told something new or different each time I talk to the service rep and/or the insurance agent. Has anyone had this or a similar experience and can give me some insight. Thanks, Roger Allen
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