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http://www.landlinemag.com/Magazine/2005/Oct/BottomLine/two-or-one.aspx anybody tried this yet??? claims of more weight capacity, better ride, higher rollover speeds, and less rolling resistance.......... snake oil?

I have a question about my new to me Class A. The outer edges of all 4 rear tires are wearing enough to lose their tread marks. The coach says to run 80lbs and these are inflated to 95lbs. What do you think? The tires say maximum pressure 125lbs. They are a low time looking matched set of Chinese tires. My gut feeling is to raise the pressure to stop the outer edge wear. However we are way over the coach placard pressure of 80 lbs. This is a new coach to us and we are figuring things out.

The Michelin XRV 55301 is not available nationwide and should not be listed on FMCA's PDF of available tires. Furthermore, it is a DTO, which means Dual Tire Only, so if it was available, it could not be mounted on the front of an RV. The available tire is No. 59634, which is invoiced for about $166 more than the 55301.

Hi, I am new to the FMCA and am looking forward to being part of the community. I own a 1996 Freedom Wide LTV on the dodge Ram 3500 Van. It has been a bit of a challenge due to suspension problems over my almost 6 yr years of ownership but really a fun coach, very manoeuvrable and a great little camper. I'll soon be ready to move to my second but for now I'm a bit stymied with my current RV. To delay the purchase of a new motorhome I decided to do some sprucing up, the entire story is too long to post here but it's been almost 2 months with more than a few bad mechanics and other troubles. My current situation which I find puzzling is tires! Actually upgrading to new tires (and new bilstein) shocks seems to have instigated difficulties. Here are some details, perhaps someone else has a motorhome like this one and shed some light on this for me:. Single rear tires, LT 225/75R-16 E GVW is 8,510 on the door is pounds. Fully loaded I weighed it at 7,800 pounds. I installed 4 new Michelin LTX M/S 2 tires.. I loved them as they gave my rig a wonderful ride, however the tires introduced a bad road wander making it almost impossible for me to navigate freeway speeds and the normal winds in my area. The worn tires I'd removed were Open County, I did not much like them but I waited until they worn out before replacing them with the Michelins. I had my vehicle inspected believing it needed alignment and was told that the problem was the tires, the owner of the shop believed that the tire sidewalls were causing the rear tires to bulge and therefore causing the front end to sway back and forth. I'd previously installed rear wheel spacers and both a front and rear stabilizer / steering damper and had replaced the ball joints. I called Henderson's Line Up in Oregon for advice and they recommended I replace the M/S 2's with XPS Ribs. I did this and it was somewhat improved but not enough. I wound up seeking service at several other shops and eventually installing a new steering gearbox, a new front steering damper and a new steering gearbox stabilizer. during this time it was found there was also a brake pull which was corrected with a complete front end brake service. After careful study and several mechanics it was determined that the steering will now continue to improve (I hope), It's been aligned several times and the front end has had several detailed inspections. It seems the new steering gearbox will require driving time, to help it settle in along with the other new parts. My dilema is now the tires, I've found I intensely dislike the rough and jarring ride from the XPS Ribs. The Ribs have negated my satisfaction with the bilsteins. I am in the process now of lowering the tire pressure, it helps a little but the best explanation was offered by an RV tire shop in Fullerton who explained that the Ribs are better intended for a heavier vehicle, like a plumbers truck and not intended to give a nice ride to a little motorhome like mine. His suggestion, the LTX M/S 2!!!!! After checking with many shops, I can find no consensus on a good (better) tire for my Freedom Wide but I remain eager to swap the Ribs for something else so I can enjoy all the recent work and upgrades to my motorhome. . My current shop is researching what tires would be best fit, they have suggested the Michelin M/S tire but I am worried with all the differing suggestions and would very much like feedback on this problem. My RV is an older one but other than this last issue it's ready for fun. I will add that I might tough out the rough tires but I travel with dogs and they react very badly to the rough ride. Thank you. Jamie

Michelin dealer suggesting I change from XRV to XZE. Anyone have any experience with this?

2005 Fleetwood Excursion with Cat C7 turbo Should I replace 11 year old Goodyear tires even though only 40k miles, they've been covered and stored with coach on levelers but not off the ground. Great tread, no cracks but dot code is 3704. Everything I read and word from others is replace no later than ten years old regardless of visual inspection results. What do you think about replacing front tires this year and replace rears in future years? I'm thinking of biting the bullet and replace them Amal at once. I plan to put 11k miles on the tires in 2016. If I do replace them what do you think about going with a larger diameter tire for better mileage at a lower sustained engine rpm? Current tires are Goodyear G670 RV, 275/70R22.5, load range H. Tread 5 plies steel cord, sidewall 1 ply steel cord. Its been suggested to go with a 305 tire. I have a Cat C7 turbo. At 60-65 mph I'm running at ~2100 rpm getting 7.5 to 8.5mpg. Mpg should improve if I can do 60-65mph @1800 rpm. What gotchas should I consider? Any recommendations for tires to consider? A relative owns a large number of semi tractors and trailers. He recommends Michllan, he is not a fan of Goodyear tires. I will appreciate any input on any or all my questions. This is my first year with this beast and looking forward to having a great time.

Has anyone replaced their RV tires, with Firestone? I need of new tires now. Michelins are not available.

While doing some research yesterday on brakes and drums to install on our coach we purchased last year at a dealer I discovered that the dealer installed tires that are too light of a weight rating on our coach prior to us purchasing it and the wrong size. The coach calls for a 295/80R22.5 in all positions with a H rating on the steer axle, (14600lbs steer axle, 23000 drive axle) The dealer installed 295/75R22.5 with a G rating (Firestone FS591 rated at 6175lbs each), when you do the math I am 2250lbs short on the steer axle (by rating, actually overloaded by 1200lbs). So I did the next thing....I had it weighed. fully loaded steer axle is 13550 Drive is 20800 lbs while I can run the G rated on the drive axle I need to do something about the steer tires.This all started when I became suspicious that the wrong brakes were installed by the previous owner since the coach does a poor attempt at stopping then the brakes are applied. After speaking to Monaco, Bendix and Webb companies I am going to install Transit bus brakes with vented louvered drums, and replace the steer tires with the Michelin XZA2. Do you think I should install the correct tire size on the steer or match the drives the current tires are 1" lower and .4" narrower that what is the correct size for the coach. Michelin does not feel it will be noticeable while driving. Once it is time to change the drive tires out I will put the correct size back on. Anyone have any experience with the Louvered severe duty brake drums?

2005 Coachmen 380D, diesel pusher, looking to replace the tires before next season. Currently running 275 80R 22.5's on 10-lug steel wheels with the fake wheelcovers. When I change the tires, I was considering replacing 4 of the wheels (front and outside rears) with forged aluminum wheels to save a little weight & upgrade the rig. Then a wild thought popped into my head...how about the 14" wide-base wheels & tires to replace the rear duals? I'm sure many of you have seen tractor-trailers on the road with the single wide rear wheels in place of the duals...I'm wondering if they would (a) work in an RV application and ( not look stupid. This coach does NOT have a tag axle, so we're talking factory configuration of 2 front wheels and 4 rear. Thoughts? Thanks Matt

A fellow Beaver Patriot Thunder owner in the DFW metro area has sustained damage as the result of an installation done by TCi of Fort Worth. The shop dragged his Accu-Shield covered wheels across concrete permanently damaging them. Further, he found a flat several days after installation, possibly that tire is ruined as well. Owners who are considering using TCi for tire replacement might consider waiting until the company resolves problems associated with RV tire installation. Both aesthetics and safety are at stake.

I purchased two new Michelin tires (XRV 255/80R22.5) using the FMCA National Account. The process is very easy to set up. I had the tires installed at Shrader Tire and Oil in Lima Ohio. The installation took less than one hour. These guys were waiting on me to arrive and wasted no time in getting the job done. I would recommend the program and Shrader without hesitation. Ben Paysen is the Fleet Manager at Shrader and was great to work with.

It time to change my tires, all six. The FMCA Michelin deal looks good. I've talked to other MH owners, Thor and Freight Liner, and tire dealers. It is close to decision time. I'm thinking of moving from my GY G670 255/70R225 to Michelin 275/70R225. (Some of the newer models using the same chassis use the 275/70's) I have made the measurement of wheel well, minimum dual spacing (spacing is 13"). Now the questions: 1) How do I adjust the Rev/mile? I've looked at the Operators manual for Freight Liner, and don't see an adjustment on the menu setup. (I thought I did at one time.) Is it a user setup or must I take it to Freight Liner or Cummins? 2) A friend told me that if I make the change to the 275 that my GCVR should increase from 5000 lbs (now) to 10000 lbs as with the later models of my 2008 Damon Astoria. Does anyone know it this is true. Freight Liner said check with Thor and Thor said check with Freight Liner. Thanks in advance for any help. Steve

<p>On this and other RV forums, I see mention of tire temperature and the use of IR "guns" to keep track of tire temperature.</p> <p> </p> <p>Using hand held "guns" on conductive metal objects such as wheels, hubs, brakes and engine components is OK but using them to learn what the critical temperature is, on tires, just a waste of time. The main reason this is not a good idea is that rubber is really a good insulator so the hot zone of tires which is buried internal to the structure as the heat is generated internal to cords and at the high strain (movement) locations between the steel at the belt edges. IR guns can only measure the surface temperature of the tire so you are not getting accurate reading of the critical location.</p> <p> </p> <p>The other problem with using the guns is repeatability. Locating the precise point of measurement if you are going to do a comparison of the same tire at two different times is critical. Even the angle you hold the gun can affect the reading.</p> <p> </p> <p>There is also the problem of why heat is bad for tires. A tire does not fail because of the average temperature of the tire but because of the hottest temperature at a specific location internal to the tire structure.</p> <p> </p> <p>Here is a sample graphic from Finite Element computer model showing the hottest area in red and coolest in blue.</p> <p> </p> <p><img alt="o5rr6t.jpg" src="http://i42.tinypic.com/o5rr6t.jpg" /></p> <p> </p> <p>If you look near the shoulder (just to the left of the red zone) you see very high changes in temperature with minor changes in location of temperature measurement. Since this is a computer simulation it is basic in that it does not introduce the variations in rubber thickness ( insulation) due to sidewall decoration or tread pattern. These variations simply add to the difficulty in getting accurate measurement in real tires.</p> <p> </p> <p>When I used laboratory quality IR thermograph equipment costing tens of thousands I was able to measure significant temperature differences over distances as small as 0.10" this is smaller than to normal target area offered by the Harbor Freight IR gun. This means that unless you measure at the identical location on a tire at +/- 0.05" location you will not get repeatable temperatures.</p> <p> </p> <p>The other variable is time and distance traveled since you were driving at your controlled speed. Based on my real life experience I would suggest that you need to drop from your constant highway speed of 60mph to 0 within 20 seconds and then take the tire temperature at the same time from stop (say 20 seconds +/- 5) or the temperature reading would not be providing you the information you would need to make a valid A-B comparison for load or inflation adjustment.</p> <p>When I was working Indy Car tire tests we would shoot for collecting the 12 tread temperatures using a needle probe always in the same sequence at 3 to 5 second intervals (less than 60 seconds total with 45 seconds the goal for all 12 measurements starting from the second the car stopped moving.)</p> <p> </p> <p>You might as well just use your hand to judge if the tire is hot or really hot.</p> <p> </p> <p>I have two posts on my blog on the topic of IR guns</p> <p><a href="http://www.rvtiresafety.com/2012/05/what-do-you-think-about-temperature.html">This one</a> has additional temperature pictures.</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://www.rvtiresafety.com/2012/05/what-do-you-think-of-ir-guns-part-2.html">This post</a> has data showing a direct comparison between internal TPMS, IR gun and a professional racing pyrometer as used by a major tire company race tire engineer.</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://www.rvtiresafety.com/2011/05/tire-temperature-pressure-hot-topic.html">This post </a>covers "Gas Law" and the mathimatical relationship between temperature and pressure and has a picture of my race car.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><strong>Bottom Line</strong></p> <p>Does this mean you can't use your HF $29 IR gun? Not at all. Just keep in mind that we are talking about trying to improve the safety of your travels. I am not sure if it a good practice to use a "toy" when making safety related decisions.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p>

We have a 2008 Newmar Dutchstar #4304 - tag. Currently has Michelin XRV305/70R 22.5 tires. Looking to buy 8 new Michelins. Been told MIchelin is not producing the XRV 305/70R tires. Tire shop suggested using Michelin XZA2 295/80R 22.5. Has anyone made the switch from 305/70R to 295/80R that has the same 2008 DSDP #4304? Thanks in advance, David

I'm currently processing claims paperwork for Carlisle tires, having joined the ranks of owners who've suffered blowouts running on Carlisles (they came with my 2011 Roadmaster 2000-1 dolly). We had two blowouts in six months, perfectly-maintained new Carlisle tires that were kept indoors. Along with contacting the dolly and tire manufacturers, I've filed a complaint against Carlisle with the NHTSA. Evidence suggests it is an unsafe tire, my experience affirms that conclusion. A friend is doing research for tire replacement on their trailer, sent me the following excellent link that explains DOT codes and lists American-made tires. http://www.americanmadetires.com/where-tires-are-made.html Our independent searching has come to the same conclusion: Goodyear Marathon. But, there is a fly in the ointment: at present, there are still failure-prone Marathons that were made in China out there, being sold. They are currently being made domestically, reportedly with higher reliability; but, it's hard to find the American ones. In the interim, I had to settle for Karrier Loadstar, which owners report enjoys good operating safety and reliability, even though... you guessed, it's made in China.

TCi in Fort Worth was designated by the FMCA as my Michelin dealer, I'm glad they were. Superb service! The technician who installed my new front tires gave me the option of installing new valve stems, I asked for his input. "The rubber O-ring is the thing, we can't determine its condition without taking the stem apart; and, if we do that, we can't put it back together," he replied. The cost? Ten bucks. Of course, let's yank 'em off and install new ones, I said. It made sense; I mean, why seal old ones away for another five years? Well, the condition of the seven year old stem, once taken out, was not good. The chrome plating was coming off, the O-ring dried and brittle. "You won't believe the number of blowouts that start when that valve core yields," he says. Oh? It gave me chills to think I was on the verge of keeping the thing in place for a third set of tires... So, word to the wise: spend the $10 and have peace of mind.

OK...I know this sounds like a stupid "newbie" question. But...oh well. I want to make sure that my tire inflation is good. Everything I read says determine the cold pressure and then get air but don't drive over a mile before you get it. I recently drove cross country and I have yet to find any place within a mile of campgrounds where we are staying where I can get air at the needed pressure. Is there a relatively easy answer for this? Can I buy some sort of compressor to carry on board that will generate that much pressure? I guess I should say that I have a gas powered 2009 Damon Challenger. 36 ft.

Attention Owners Using Carlisle Tires on Dollies and Trailers I have just reported the second catastrophic failure in less than 3,000 miles of a Chinese-made Carlisle "Radial Trail" ST215/75R14 to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. This latest incident occurred on a driver-side dolly tire inflated to DOT sidewall pressure operating on Interstate highway pavement at 57 mph. In both cases, the tire has appeared to wear normally, has accumulated less than 3,000 miles of service, maintained an operating temperature of under 130F during its brief life cycle. In both cases, the failure was violent enough to cause damage to the dolly structure. An initial glimpse at entries in various forums shows that dozens of owners have had this same kind of experience with low-mileage Carlisle tires. The record has clearly shown that Carlisle tires currently installed on Roadmaster and other dollies represent a hazard. Check your equipment. Followup information, 22 May 2012 Nancy from Roadmaster asserted that I'm the first to experience such a failure using their dollies. She referred me to Carlisle for warranty coverage. Just a few hours after establishing email contact with Carlisle, a customer svc rep contacted me. The rep has scheduled a UPS pickup of the second tire carcass for tomorrow morning, and is starting the claims process for me. A claims representative is to be in contact with me, next. After reading dozens of owner opinions, I opted for the Karrier Loadmaster tire at Northern Equipment. Their low price is counterbalanced by the fact their stock is 4 years old. Since my dolly is indoor-stored, I put the tires on, despite their age. In the photo: failed tire in background, with surviving Carlisle and new Karrier Loadstar.