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Found 6 results

  1. gemert

    Air Brake Systems

    Not the typical post or question I know but...After 3.5 years of ownership of my Beaver I am ready to start learning some of the chassis systems. I am not a mechanic. I used to do all my own work on my cars, to include rebuilding a few engines, back in the 70s and 80s so I know I am capable of it. I just stopped when I had enough money to pay someone else regularly. Is there anywhere on line to learn these systems? I've decided to learn the brakes first because I have an air leak that I can hear. Probably something simple when I can get underneath to look. But I would like to learn the systems. I have found the typical diesel mechanic schools on line but no self help type sites. Any ideas? Thanks!!
  2. I would like to know if any one can offer some personal information regarding RoadMasters, BrakeMaster Model 9160, vs. the product that M & G Engineering makes which installs under the hood. I like the idea that M &G's product fits directly to the master cylinder and that the braking action is not affected by the lack of a brake booster (vacuum). It seems that it would take less effort to apply the brakes, and not have to go thru a non operating vacuum booster, as RoadMasters product does. Also, nothing has to be removed/installed each time you head out. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Ron.
  3. Still trying to educate myself here.... last couple I looked at had "Air over hydraulic brakes" I have researched all of the theory... now to the practical. How practical is this? Are parts easy to get? Would it be easier in the long run to just get a coach with air brakes?
  4. Help!! Just paid $3500 for rotors and pads and now they are telling me that the calipers are bad. They are saying it will take 3 months to rebuild them. Apparently Class Action law suit on Bendix brake system and no one is making parts available. If anyone can give me direction on what my next step is I would appreciate it. Thanks, Don Feel free to e-mail me at don@aaarestoration.org
  5. I have a 2007 Fleetwood Providence. I am visiting my sister in Rhode Island and parked I her driveway. I have water and cable o sewer hookup. I have to empty the black tank every 7 to 9 days. On one trip to the dealer to dump the tank, the secondary air gauge started going from zero to operating pressure and back and the warning buzzer starts. I paid for a mobile RV repairman and he could not find anything wrong. So I went to empty the black tank and it started going up and down after driving about 10 miles and was intermittent all the way back but still cannot here an air leak. Any suggestions?
  6. I have a 2010 Winnebago Tour 40CD built on a Freightliner chassis with drum brakes all around. I purchased the unit as new, from a Seattle area dealer, in October 2010, when it had 3,500 miles on it. The coach now has 11,000 miles on it. For some time now I have been concerned with the noisy service brake operation, which I can best describe as follows. When starting out cold, during the first few applications the brakes emit a low pitched, loud squealing sound (almost like those pesky dump trucks). This clears up after driving a mile or so, and / or after the brakes have been applied a few times (that being of little comfort to my neighbors, when I first roll out of our downhill driveway). While the brakes are still relatively cool, they emit a soft, high-pitched sound, which occurs closer to stopping speed. This condition worsens as the brakes are subjected to fairly heavy usage at low speeds, such as was the case during a recent stop-and-go drive in heavy traffic, along the Pacific Coast Highway in the Los Angeles area. In summary, very seldom do the brakes bring the coach to a stop in complete silence. It is important to point out that I used to make my living driving passenger highway coaches, as well as tractor-trailers, and that I am accustomed to using the engine brake at all times, and whenever possible, plan my stops so as to only apply the service brakes at low speeds, mostly when the engine brake deactivates due to low speed. Earlier on, I called Freightliner about this condition and was advised that because the coach is “new” the brakes need to be burnished. They would not authorize my local dealer to pull the wheels and inspect the brakes. In my opinion, at 3,500 miles, when I bought the coach, the brakes were no longer “new”, at least not for the purpose of burnishing them. I would appreciate your thoughts, comments and suggestions on if and how the situation can possibly be remedied.
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