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Our large slide rollers are leaving marks on the underside of the slide. The paint has worn off in spots. What is causing it and how can we fix it? Thanks! 2021 Winnebago Adventurer 35f.

Slide not getting enough power to retract

I have a 2007 keystone outback 23rs with a manual slide out. Meaning you go outside the trailer, attach two rails to the back of the trailer and then grab hold of handles and pull the the slideout out. This works just fine and the rest of the trailer is in good condition. Unfortunately the two rails were left behind on the last camping trip. We've gone back to the site, no luck. Keystone says they only supply replacement parts through their dealers, and even the the dealer they gave me the slideoutpict.pdfslideoutpict.pdfslideoutpict.pdfslideoutpict.pdfslideoutpict.pdfname of as a 'really good' dealer for supplying part says: "they are no longer making the rails, They don't make parts for trailers over 10 years old. Too bad, guess you'll just have to buy a new trailer"! Does any one have any ideas where I might find replacement rails? I can't use the trailer without them since the slide out covers up the dining area when closed and is currently covering access to the pump so I can't winterize the trailer. I've attached a picture that shows the slideout and the rails underneath to make it easier to know what I'm talking about.

I've been wrestling with a full-wall slideout topper since I bought this 2007 Beaver Patriot Thunder. As with most things, the problems trace back to incorrect maintenance. Early in its history, the long mast (these systems are engineered for much shorter lengths) cradle became loose, and the fabric-wrapped roller tube fell onto the top of the slideout. Someone replaced it with their own hardware, long boltsets which tore at the fabric and chewed holes in the aluminum extrusion (pn 1110089-30 Slide Lead Rail) in which the spline is retained. To compound their incompetence, they lined the cradle with duct tape, which broke down over the years and formed a sticky length of rope, impeding the roller action and shattering the mounting plates on either end. All that stress loosened the mounting brackets. In attempting to clean up their mess, I'm faced with grinding out the damaged backside of the second articulating rail. It is only a $60 item, but shipping for a single 30' length is a whopping $700. By comparison, an entire new topper system is $3,800 plus about $1,000 in shipping. The $1 million question for me: did the dealer from whom I bought the rig know this cascading maintenance failure was in play? If they did a decent inspection of the rig -- they had it long enough to install a Silverleaf system and day-night shades, front to back -- it would've been apparent. I noticed small tears in the topper fabric, some chipped paint on the outer portion of the rail. Of course, there was no way to see the massive damage inside until I cut the old fabric off, today. Recommended Action: Inspect topper fabric for tears, and observe extension and retraction for smooth operation. Lift the cover on longer toppers and check for security of the cradle mounting hardware, and check to see that nothing is binding during movement. Remove end covers and carefully inspect pn 1511100-00R Side Plate Assembly with Gudgeon Support to determine that the corners of the support adjacent countersunk holes have not cracked or broken (symptoms of binding). Following Girard procedures, remove tension from the topper, detach the topper fabric, and tighten the Allen screws that hold the entire assembly on the RV. I found 20% of mine either loose or missing. Time in service: 7 years Mileage: 30,000 miles Failure to accomplish these checks can lead to the assembly coming off the RV at highway speeds, which can cause injury or death to others. [My plan is to use aircraft building/repair techniques to rivet the cradle to the extrusion. Allen bolts will be dipped in thread locker, and then have torque seal applied after installation. The rail is unusable, I'll have Girard cut three ten-foot sections for shipping. This plan passes muster with my expert on all things Girard, Kevin Waite. He can be contacted at 541 953-6162 or by email at kvn.wt.7629@gmail.com.] Followup: Girard mentioned that the articulating extrusions are stacked, i.e. the fabric can be mounted to either. I used a bungee to hold them upright and closed the slide. To my absolute horror, the extrusion did not clear the mounting brackets, bending it backwards the same way your air conditioning unit did, that time you drove under the 12' overpass with a 12'2" rig Really. This is a manufacturing error by Beaver. The poor stupid technicians who rebuilt the cradle and saw the worn fabric simply didn't see that, upon closure, the fabric was sandwiched between crushed sections, and then mauled as the rig moved down the highway. Still, check your toppers. That tube for one weighs some fifty pounds and will leave a mark if it hits anyone, catapulted off your rig at seventy feet per second. Chances are, the strip didn't bind against the roller assembly when the bus rolled off the line. At 30 feet, a small amount of sag took place, and soon the parts started binding. Inept technicians failed to see what was happening, and inadvertantly made the situation worse. You humble correspondent is simply the boy with the shovel that follows their ugly parade...

Has anyone else had a problem where the big ¾ length driver side slideout track system had to be replaced with a beefier 3-track system? Current Status: My RV repair guy was afraid to tackle the repair of a huge slideout until he talked to Lippert (LCI). When he did, LCI interrupted him and said: “Let me guess … the slide is out of sync back to front and top to bottom – right?” After a few confirming questions, LCI said: “Winnebago installed the wrong system. There is no way that little two-track system can handle that huge slideout. My guy called Winnebago (who seemed to know that there is a problem with system that had been installed) and they told him that, since Camping World did not report the problem (see below) when the rig was under warranty, they are no longer responsible for its repair. I’m using bullets to shorten this history as much as possible Purchased a new Adventurer 37F in 2015 It has a huge driver’s side slideout that carries everything including the kitchen sink, closet, washer & dryer, 80% of all inside storage, 42” TV and lift system, table and a residential refrigerator. Noted right away that the front end was out of sync with the rear and there was a gap on the bottom that was greater than on the top Even if I could sometimes get the slideout to snug-up, it would move out again after driving a few miles Four months after purchase, took it in to CW for several warranty fixes including the slideout CW told me that it was “within spec” – saying in general that it was as good as it will get and they documented that in writing (evidently did not report this to Winnebago) The slideout moved in and out and we were having no problem with leaks … so we have been using it for almost three years (We are on the road 6-7 months of the year.) Recently, after bringing it in and was starting drive, I heard a loud pop. It was so loud that I stopped and inspected – saw nothing The next time I had the slide all the way out, I noticed that there was damage to the lower-front gear track in the form of damaged teeth near the outer end Took it in to my RV repair shop (not CW) and this is where this story above began We are going to fight this – but that’s a story for later

Our 1999 National Tradewinds started blowing the 20 amp fuse when we would hit the button. It will work one time but then blow it the next time. Sometimes when it's bringing in the slideout and sometimes when it's taking it out. Works fine when we change the fuse for one time. What to do?

Months ago, I first noticed that the corner trim in the bathroom had a little gap, at the bottom. This is the inside corner strip behind the toilet, forward outboard. After carefully inserting a brad or two to lock it down, it came back up. Then, came the discovery that the trim-to-wall gap varied with slide extension! To make a long story brief, the passenger-side slideout pushes the coach's wall slightly (about 1/16") outward upon reaching full extension! So, today's project is to align the slide. This is not as hard as it sounds, verifying slideout alignment is something any owner, regardless of sex, creed, age or mechanical abilities can do. The first step: go to http://www.powergearus.com/ and find the appropriate manual. Then, I extended the slideout to an arbitrary point (about three inches) and put a rule to the edge. Sure enough, the spacing was different between the front and back edges, but not in a way that made sense. THEN, I put the rule under the slideout and got a surprise. The forward rail led the aft rail on extension by a slight amount. 'Turns out, that is the space between the gear teeth below, on the drive shaft. Today, I'll slip off that gear, nudge the room in a tad to make it perfectly parallel with the coach side, and reinstall the gear. The results will be listed in an addendum below. I undid one of the two gears by releasing tension and sliding it aft, off the track. Then, KayCee gave short bursts in/out until the front and back were the exact same distance from the side of the coach. Then, the gear was slid back into place. While the results are vastly improved, I'll bring it inboard one notch in the morning, so the room is exactly parallel to the body, on retraction. At present, the bottom contacts the side slightly after the top, exerts assymetrical pressure on the wall. Voila! I removed a tilt-bin in the kitchen, and laid eyes on the area where the slideout presses to the wall, only to discover a large wiring bundle had migrated to be PINCHED between the two. Okay, this fails on two counts. First, repeatedly crushing 110VAC romex is baaad thing. Second, I'd say the same thing about distorting exterior walls. So, using the technique of measured consensus with the other slides, I rigged this one to track simultaneously and to be as vertical as possible in the retracted position. It is a little bothersome that the absolute margin for adjustment is reached shortly prior to a perfectly parallel pre-tightening seal gap is achieved; but, that might be due to factory error or structural shifting. The slide is within an eight of an inch of perfection, which is within tolerances.