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jbrunson

Lug Nut Torque

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1 hour ago, jbhotaling said:

On my new to me coach the inside rear dual was out of air. Took the MH slooowly to the local Michelin truck tire place a few miles away. While he took the lug nuts off he felt that they weren't as tight as they should be. After checking the tire and finding the valve stem extender at fault I had him install all new ones and check all wheels for correct torque. I have never seen an impact gun that big and the mechanic explained to me that the extension he put on it prevented going above the 475 ft lb. 

I love doing things myself but you just gotta know when to let the pros do it.

Could you post the Make, Model and Year of your coach and the rear axle maximum load numbers or the stud size and thread count used on your coach.

Rich.

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On 10/20/2016 at 4:21 PM, campcop said:

If I got the wheel and tire off, I don't think I could move it!!!

The older I get the less I can lift. Childhood days I could snatch 120 lbs from the floor straight up with one hand.  Hard to bend over and pick up shoes now.

Besides, I can just picture myself in removing the tire. As the last hole clears the last thread over backward I would go and have to wait for a good Samaritan to stop and assist me in getting the tire off my chest.

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Joe, I have always done a retorque on every thing from boat and utility trailers to coach.  200+/-  and around 600 miles on coach, everything else, 100 and 300.  have no problem changing tires, except coach. :P

Carl

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OK so I have the torque multiplier and the 1/2" torque wrench, Brett, did the link to the multiplier work?  I need to remove front wheel to do other work.

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On 10/21/2016 at 3:53 PM, ClayL said:

I checked with a number of tire shops and except for one, none had any way to torque the lug nuts properly. One had a 500 ft pound torque wrench in a very dusty box on a shelf about 8 feet off the floor. They had it but didn't use it.

I bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier and a 250 ft pound torque wrench. 158 input put 475 on the lug nuts.

I thought it would be cheaper than a SnapOn 500 ft pound torque wrench ($350 back when I checked) but by the time I bought a 33 mm 1 inch drive socket ($35) and a ten inch long 1 inch extension ($75) and a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter (for the input) plus an 14 inch steel tube to go from the torque multiplier reaction bar to the ground  plus the cost of the multiplier and the torque wrench, I think the torque wrench cost would have been less expensive than the multiplier set up.

I used it once when I bought new tires or rather the tire shop used it.

Sold the motor home and still have the multiplier set up. Guess I ought to put it on Craig's list.

Where did you get the multiplier, what brand ?

Bill

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11 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

Where did you get the multiplier, what brand ?

Bill

Good question! I have a scar on my forehead from "cost effective tooling" could also explain a few other things....:lol:be careful-- always give yourself an out in case of tool failure. 

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On 10/21/2016 at 7:02 AM, jleamont said:

A mounted spare will fit in one compartment once I organize it now I have more space with the propane tank gone.

How did you get rid of propane, what are you useing for heat, reefer, cooking?

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20 minutes ago, rlbarkleyii said:

How did you get rid of propane, what are you useing for heat, reefer, cooking?

Induction cooktop for cooking . Aquahot (diesel and electric) for heat and hot water 

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When I bought this coach (they are still doing it) it had a 60gal propane tank for a 3 burner stove, everything else was residential electric.  Got rid of propane and put in a Sears 3 burner electric stove...Aqua Hot for heat and water.  Same as Joe's.  

Carl

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I found it odd but all we had on propane was the Norcold refrigerator and the cooktop with a giant tank. Now that both are gone I lightened up the coach and gained some storage space.

An added bonus, I can drive through tunnels now on the highway legally. I was carrying enough propane before to be considered a HAZMAT and had to detour.

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A good tire shop will have a torque wrench and a not good one will not ask before you let them touch your unit.

Too tight or to loose is unsafe.

I have my own 3/4 drive wrench and a local truck shop with a wall mounted tester that I check it on.

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On 10/19/2016 at 4:47 PM, wolfe10 said:

 

There is another method I use with a pipe extension and good quality 1/2" torque wrench.  If you have one, let me know and I can get you details.

Hi Wolfe:

I for one would like to know the other method! 

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1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:


See my post above with link: Posted yesterday at 07:26 AM

 

My problem is I spent over 40 years where it had to be torqued to an exact number. While Your setup will work for that  one application I am looking at something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03715B-2-Inch-Multiplier-1100-Feet-Pound/dp/B0017K5ARU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1477324310&sr=8-4&keywords=torque+wrench+multiplier

Bill

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Just got back from the local welder..... got this cheater bar/ extender/ monster torque wrench extension welded together ... a piece of round 9/16" Bethlehem steel 52 inches long is quite a manly appurtenance! This thing could seriously hurt someone...thank God for electric hacksaws.... judging from the looks during discussions at local truck shops, I really got my doubts about how many 22.5" rims are actually torqued....pictures to come...

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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:

Hard to beat a good old cheater pipe.

But hard to calibrate for applying specific torque.  Can be done, but not a precise.

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jbrunson.

My wheels have never come off yet...49 years!  Only ones I changed out was 16" and a couple of 19.5's...all the rest, since 1980's was done by a shop!  Even Truck Mobil, use an Impact.

Being precise is something that we tend to go overboard with, just my thought. 

Carl

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