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2016 Ford Edge

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Has anyone used a cut off switch so you don't have to take the negative battery cable off a 2016 Ford Edge?

Any concerns with doing it this way?

Anyone have any kind of concerns towing all wheels down with the 2016 Ford Edge?

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I have a 2016 Edge and had my Ford dealer install a Blue Sea 500Amp cutoff switch on the negative terminal.  On Page 234 of my Owners Manual, in the Towing Section, Step 4 for Keyless entry has you disconnecting the battery.   Be very careful how you do this as there are three ground points off the negative battery cable.  The one on the fender well stud, for jump starting, one on the engine, and one goes to the electronics.  All in a single piece bundled wiring harness.  This is not for the faint hearted to trace, I worked with my local Ford dealer for several hours figuring this one out!

Now for the "gotcha"...  If you disconnect the battery you obviously kill the factory power outlets you need for your brake system and in my case tail lights.  To power the Blue Ox Patriot system and the TowMate 32" Wireless Brake and Tail lights we use I ran 12VDC from the coach 7 pin connector in to the Edge.  I then connected that to two power outlets I installed under the dash that allow the Patriot and TowMate to plug in to them.   

My Edge has all LED lights in the rear.  I wasn't willing to modify them as I know from a previous Ford just how expensive those LED light modules are...  So that is why I went with the TowMate wifi system.  The gotcha here is the whole rear of my Edge is either glass or plastic on the horizontal flat areas.  I used an old hitch with a piece of 2X2 inch tube welded to it to mount my lights.  

The way my Edge is wired now the only mod to the factory wiring is the Blue Sea cutoff.  Everything else is wired on easily removable two wire pre-made cables made to be used with a Deltran Battery Tender.  If you want more details and the Part Numbers let me know...

One other "gotcha":  I highly advise you to have a couple regular keys made for the drivers door as the "key" in the fob is next to useless.

FWIW:  I could not get an official answer from Ford on why you need to disconnect the battery.  Prior to 2016 it wasn't in the Owners Manual.  What I was unofficially told is too many folks were killing their Edge's battery due to the toad's auxiliary braking system.  If you leave the battery connected every time your toad brake system depresses the brake pedal it "wakes up" the vehicles electronics as it thinks you are getting ready to start the car by putting your foot on the brake.  And the system stays active for several minutes each time.  The cumulative effect is to kill the battery...  Since I was modifying a brand new Edge I followed Ford's guidelines to the letter.  I don't want any potential warranty claim issues.  That is also why I had my Ford dealer modify the wiring harness instead of a third party.  I freely admit this was overkill on my part...

BTW the Edge tows great!

Regards,

Wayne

 

 

 

 

GTS_and_Edge_Rest_Stop.jpg

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Could you simply install a charge line from the coach to the toad to keep the battery charged all the time?  that is what I did to my F150 after running the battery down one night when I left the auxiliary brake connected.

Lenp

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9 hours ago, lenp said:

Could you simply install a charge line from the coach to the toad to keep the battery charged all the time?  that is what I did to my F150 after running the battery down one night when I left the auxiliary brake connected.

Lenp

Yes, that would be my preferred solution...  But when I asked about it everyone at Ford followed the Owners Manual "guidance".  Since our Edge had less than 500 miles on it when all this was done I followed their directive.  For the $200 for the battery disconnect installation it wasn't worth worrying about any warranty questions caused by not following Ford's directions.

Another way to handle this is to put in a disconnect, as Ford recommends, and then use an aftermarket fused connection directly to the Edge battery to power the toad brake and lights.  Then you wouldn't even need a charge line.  Just remember to run your engine every evening to recharge the battery.

 

 

 

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I have a 2013 Lincoln MKX and it is the same as the Edge in many aspects.  After 4 hours on the road the battery would be dead.  My fix for that until I can get a charge line installed is that every couple hours we stop for stretch and other niceties.  I start the car and let it run for 5 minutes, then off we go again.  Works well for us.

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11 minutes ago, Wayne77590 said:

I have a 2013 Lincoln MKX and it is the same as the Edge in many aspects.  After 4 hours on the road the battery would be dead.  My fix for that until I can get a charge line installed is that every couple hours we stop for stretch and other niceties.  I start the car and let it run for 5 minutes, then off we go again.  Works well for us.

If everyone would do that we wouldn't have manufactures wanting to disconnect the toad battery.  :) 

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Things change and apparently the Ford 6-Speed Automatic Transmission - 6F50/6F55 has to have the battery disconnected according to the Ford Edge 6-Speed Automatic Transmission - 6F50/6F55 manual.  My bad.  In 2013 the Edge and MKX both had the same requirements and the battery was not mentioned in the manual. 

In my case I don't know why I have to put the key-less ignition into the accessories mode when after 10 minutes everything shuts off. But, that is the way the manual states and that is the way I do it, by the manual.

Yep, to bad they don't standardize it.

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I just purchased a 2017 Ford Edge SEL. In reading this thread I noticed that Wayne states, "...Be very careful how you do this as there are three ground points off the negative battery cable.  The one on the fender well stud, for jump starting, one on the engine, and one goes to the electronics.  All in a single piece bundled wiring harness.  This is not for the faint hearted to trace, I worked with my local Ford dealer for several hours figuring this one out!...

A couple of questions:

1. Didn't the dealer just remove the negative wire bundle off the negative terminal and connect that to one side of the cutoff switch and the other side to the negative battery terminal? Or was it more involved that?

2. What effect on electronics  memory does this disconnection have, (i.e,., radio programming, etc.). Or do all of the electronics maintain their memory?

3. Any other gotchas?

BTW: I plan on installing an accessory 12vdc connector directly to the battery for my RVi Brake. Also a 12vdc line from the coach to the battery to keep it charged while towing. I will be using power from the coach to via the six pin connector for the tail lights. This is what I did on our 2013 Ford CMax that we traded in for the Edge.

If anyone else has recommendations/information regarding flat towing the Edge I would like to here those also. 

Larry Valdez

2016 Tiffin Allegro 37AP

2017 Ford Edge SEL

Edited by Larry0801
Added name and RV info

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Larry,

1. On our Edge there were multiple ground wires that run to the negative battery terminal.  It wasn't just a quick remove and replace to install the disconnect with a single cable.

2.  Surprisingly we did not have any serious memory loss.  The Trip computer normally reset but the radio and GPS were usually fine. 

3.  Other "gotchas"?  Well I'm not sure if it was directly related to towing but we had serious transmission issues with the Edge.  It developed an issue where it would "clunk", loud and hard,  if you were decelerating and then accelerated again.  This was most noticeable when coasting up to a Red light then accelerating again, on the Green, without coming to a full stop.   Our dealership did software reflashes, module replacements, and fluid changes trying to address the issue.  All of the fixes lasted about a thousand miles or so then our "clunk" returned.  Since it was running up on the 3/36 warranty we traded it in...

We ran a 12VDC feed from the coach to the Edge to supply the power for the braking system and towing lights.  That was a easy way to power everything.  If you are going to do the battery disconnect I wouldn't bother with a charge line.

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Happy 2018! I am very glad I found this forum.

I just did a deal on a 2017 Edge 3.5 AWD (today) and would take possession later this week. The intent is to replace the Mercury Mariner AWD Hybrid we have towed for over 45K miles with no issues. 

While I did my research to confirm the ability of the Edge 3.5 to be towed, I totally underestimated the additional complications of having to disconnect the battery each time.  

The last two posts covered many of my questions. Before I decide if I am canceling the deal I want to confirm a few things.

1. Can you avoid the battery disconnect with charging line. If so what are the down sides... warranty?

2. Is it necessary to use a supplemental taillight system?

As Larry stated, any other help or recommendations are welcome and greatly appreciated.

Paul

2008 Tiffin Allegro Bay FRED 

 

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I have a 2017 Ford Edge  SEL  that I am starting to get all the necessary parts for flat towing  base plate bx2657 and just a week or so Blue Ox finally came out with a wiring kit for the tail lights bx88334   I am planning on disconnecting the battery and running a wire from the RV to the car battery as well.  I will also install a 12v plug in the car that will be connected to the car battery at all times.  If you try to run your brake form the rv battery and your hitch fails the brake away switch may not work due to the loss of power.

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Ok, here’s what I found out and did to my 2017 Edge SEL.:

1) Contacted Ford, they stated disconnect the negative terminal from battery per OM. Don’t worry about other factory installed grounds (they are tied to the negative wire bundle). In otherwords you disconnect the negative terminal you have removed power to the car. 

2) Had Blue Ox BX2657 baseplate and the new Blue Ox wiring harness (BX88334) for lights installed. Wiring harness gets ground through car (connected at rear of car near lights per installer) and coach wiring via 6 pin connector (it’s ground is tied to the car near the connector. Also car is technically grounded to coach via the tow bar assembly. +12vdc for tail lights is provided from coach via 6 pin connector not the +12vdc from car battery. New wiring harness works perfectly with LEDs.

3) Had a negative battery terminal disconnect installed between battery ground wire and terminal post. It’s one of those screw knob type. The only issue is that the negative terminal is kind of far back under the hood and it’s al little tight to get my hand on it. I may install an on/off switch type later. That will require getting an extention negative battery wire to mount the switch in a more accessible location.

4) Installed dedicated 12vdc plug to run power from car battery to RVi Brake. Called RViBrake and asked about battery drain and if I needed a charge line to battery from coach. I informed the tech that I needed that on my 2013 Ford CMax. The tech said no need to run charge line. The battery is of sufficent size to not drain dead while towing (RVi Brake uses minimal voltage draw on battery). CMax required charge line because the starter battery was very small, as in most hybrids, it is only used to start the car then hybrid batteries take over. RVi Brake has a charger, it has only one line in (+12 vdc from coach) and 2 lines out (+/-12 vdc to battery posts). The reason for only one line in it that it takes ground from the car (as noted earlier) ground is also tied to the coach. (It assumes the car ground is still connected to the battery). In this instance you would be required to disconnect positive terminal from the battery instead of the negative terminal. 

Now here’s where it gets “gotcha”: Ford says disconnect the negative terminal ( in OM). Technically you are removing power from the car by removing the positive terminal instead. Both methods will work according to Ford and RVi Brake, but it is not per the OM (warranty issue?). Also, it has been stated to me that removing the negative terminal versus the positive terminal is safer for people (no accidental shorting yourself to ground). 

For now I plan to run with my negative battery terminal disconnected per OM. If battery drain becomes an issue then I will explore installing a battery disconnect on the positive side of battery and leaving the negative side connected.

Edited to add: Hooked up car to RV, setup car per OM, drove around block a few times to set up RVi Brake sensivity, ALL AOK. No memory loss of electronics in car. Did have to push Sirius XM button on radio, because it defaulted to FM. Did not lose any channel memory.

I hope this information helps.

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I am currently towing a 2016 Edge. Rather than disconnect the negative cable, I installed a disconnect relay on the positive battery cable. There is a very short positive cable that goes from the battery to the power distribution box. I simply ran one side of that to the relay and a cable from the relay to the distribution box. Simple solution. There is a button inside the vehicle that toggles the relay. I installed it in the console to avoid accidental pushing. I ran a charge line from the standard battery terminal on the 6 pin trailer connector on the car. This runs to the battery side of the disconnect relay with a 15 amp auto reset breaker to protect things. My motor Home has a relay that disconnects the charge line when the ignition is off, so the toad can’t run down the coach battery. I also power my Air Force one brake system from the battery/charge connection. That way in the event of a disconnect, it is still powered by the vehicle battery. I also used a plug and play wiring kit to enable use of the existing tail lights. You have to pull the left taillight to gain access to the connectors but that is not extremely difficult. All of this was purchased from etrailer.  Be careful to specify the proper model of your vehicle as the tail lights kits are different on the platinum I have than on the SEL and sport. I ordered the wrong one the first time and had to change it. I have been on the road with this setup for 3 months now and it works like a charm. I simply go through the Ford procedure for towing, then after I shut off the ignition, I hit the battery disconnect button. 

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  I tow a 2014 Edge and the manual does not mention disconnecting the negative cable. My question is should I disconnect the negative cable? I have a charge line from the coach to the towed car but the battery still goes dead by the second day of towing.

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5 hours ago, jredman1 said:

  I tow a 2014 Edge and the manual does not mention disconnecting the negative cable. My question is should I disconnect the negative cable? I have a charge line from the coach to the towed car but the battery still goes dead by the second day of towing.

Welcome to the forum. I question if your charge line is working. I don't have a charge line but I start the toad when we stop for lunch and at night after we stop. Usually we are driving the toad somewhere and that keeps the battery up.

Bill

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We have a 13 Edge. battery does not go dead unless it is not put into the Accessory position.

We do not have to unhook the battery. We have keyless entry too.

First you run it though the gears and into neutral after hooking up to the coach.

While in Neutral, depress the start button (without your foot on brake) until the doohickey on the dash reads accessory position, ...but before you do that ,with the ac on, close the vent to the outside or to recirculate. Tun off ac. Turn light position to off.

Now exit the car and lock the doors and have wife, in the coach, use the turn signals, then brake signals ,and turn on lights and then off, to make sure all are working.

We have  charge wire, from the coach, that feeds power to tail lights and turn signals, and emergency flashers.

Every eight hours you are supposed to stop, and start the engine, and run it though the gears ,  few times for 5 minutes, with your foot on the brake, and then put it in neutral, turn off the engine, and push the start button until accessory position shows up on the doohickey screen on the dash.

Do not make the mistake, of putting the selector in park. It makes nice expensive long streaks when you take off, in the coach and binds up everything. Makes an expensive sound when you restart  the engine and shift back to neutral as the drive ,train unbinds. Fortunately nothing hurt but some flat spots on new tires.

We let CW(not cheap) set up our Edge or transfere it from the old one. They used stock Roadmaster harness with one way diodes in the light housings at the rear for brakes and flashers and wired to grill  four round plug in(which is the dickens to plug in on 70 year old knees). Be sure once the tow bar is extended that you use bungies to tie up in our case air brake hose and wiring harness, from coach to car so it won't drag.

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Thanks, useful information but I am still a little confused. When my toad is in accessory mode the entertainment system screen stays on ( all electronics are functional even through the radio and ac are in off position) I assume this is the cause of the battery drain. Is this the same with you? Otherwise I guess it has to be the charge cable not working.

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4 hours ago, jredman1 said:

Thanks, useful information but I am still a little confused. When my toad is in accessory mode the entertainment system screen stays on ( all electronics are functional even through the radio and ac are in off position) I assume this is the cause of the battery drain. Is this the same with you? Otherwise I guess it has to be the charge cable not working.

I forgot to add turn off the radio. It will operate in the accessory position. Sorry about that.

I don't remember right at the moment if dash lights still illuminate with everything off. Shut the door after opening and lock the door and see if they are  still on. 

If it says accessory mode, radio and  inside lights and such will operate unless turned off.

No need for disconnecting battery cable. I remember a couple years ago Ford Manual was wrong on a model Fiesta I think and another one maybe the same saying it was towable but was not.

I don't know if they have changed things since we bought ours or not but by the post above on the 16 Lincoln seems the same.

Call Ford Customer Service for peace of mind.

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I've been told that the Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX are very similar in engine and electronics. This works on my 2013 and may work on the 2016.  On the display panel there is a "gear" icon. Pressing that will give different options and on mine one is Display. I can push the option there to turn the display off.  As for Radio and AC I turn them off before turning the display off.

I then set my transmission in neutral according to my manual.

The last thing I do is to put the "Bunny Ears" on the center of the steering wheel.  The Bunny Ears is a white rag tied to the top center of the steering wheel.  Looking in my rear view camera inside the MH I can see my Bunny Ears easily to let me know what the steering wheel is doing. 

Hey, works for me.

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On 4/6/2018 at 3:53 AM, manholt said:

Wayne.  "Bunny Ears"? :blink: What's the steering wheel, "Bunny Face" ?  :P:rolleyes: 

Nah! But I put an old picture of you on the seat and the Bunny Ears look down on it, except when I'm sitting on it.:o

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If anyone is using an invisibrake on a 2016 or 2017 Ford edge would you mind sharing how the bracket is connected onto the brake pedal.

I just had mine installed and the bracket is sticking up between the brake pedal and the gas pedal, making one to lift their foot to clear it.

Something is wrong.  Any pictures would sure be appreciated.

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11 minutes ago, BOBANDJANIE said:

If anyone is using an invisibrake on a 2016 or 2017 Ford edge would you mind sharing how the bracket is connected onto the brake pedal.

I just had mine installed and the bracket is sticking up between the brake pedal and the gas pedal, making one to lift their foot to clear it.

Something is wrong.  Any pictures would sure be appreciated.

Bobandjanie,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

You might post a picture of how yours is installed.  Would give us a better idea of the problem.

Thanks.

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Anyone out there towing a 2015 Ford Edge four wheels down.  I am looking at buying a 2015 Ford Edge. The towing guides I have looked at, have not said anything about disconnecting the negative battery cable. (Even Fords 2015 RV & Trailer Towing Guide) I looked at the 2015 Edges owners manual on line and it states the negative battery cable needs to be removed. 

Any feed back would be appreciated.

 

Judy

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