wildcatervin Report post Posted October 5, 2017 Have a 2009 Damon Astoria 38 ft. When I turn the AC or Heater on it blows the fuse. If I turn the fan on vent it works great. Had it in the shop and they could not find the problem. It is not the fan fuse that blows but another one-- don't know where it goes Anyone have this problem or can help? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 Can you get an electrical schematic from Damon-- should make it easy to determine what the fuse is for and trace it for a short or defective part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 6, 2017 wildcatervin, This is a link to the owners manual and it has some of the basic wiring information for your coach. https://www.thormotorcoach.com/media/6093/2009_astoria___owners_manual.pdf Pages 105 and 106 cover some of the wiring(basic drawings). On page 106 the wiring BCC system(Battery Control System) Circuit J4-1 pictures a spare circuit!!! This is sized big enough to power the AC system - That is power for Heat and Cooling. There is often a large electric fan mounted on the outside evaporator that is power anytime the cooling system is active! A shorted motor or short in this system wiring would blow the fuse when the blower is running in the manner you described ! When I turn the AC or Heater on it blows the fuse. If I turn the fan on vent it works great. The Cooling fan is not required in the Vent Mode !!! Good luck Rich ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted October 7, 2017 I have the manual and looked up circuitJ4-1 it says 25Amp and states open and also reserved. Let me try and explain this: I vacuumed all of the system out and the AC and Heater comes on, of course no cool air. Then I had some freon134 put in and the fuse blew again. Could some thing be plugged or the comp be bad. Don't have any real RV AC shops around here that will help. Had it into the shop and they say they need a shop manual to check the wire schematic. $180.00 later I took it home. Sorry for the long talk but was hopping for the best.Thanks to the 2 people that answered. Any other suggestions? Also the fan on the AC radiator does run. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted October 7, 2017 Wildcat, How did the service people add Freon? I thought the unit were sealed, with no charging ports. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 7, 2017 Herman, I believe he is talking about his dash HVAC, not roof A/C. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted October 7, 2017 Now that I can understand. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 7, 2017 That's what I figured, since I just went thru the same issue...need to change out compressor. Thankfully Linda's brother had one and it now works fine! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted October 8, 2017 Sorry about the confusion. Yes it is the coach AC. Manholt, you say you had the same problem. Did the fuse blow in the heat and cool mode? If I charge it with 134 it will blow a fuse. If I pump it dry it will not blow the fuse ,and everything works, of course it does not blow cold air. Do you think it is the compressor? Thanks everyone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted October 8, 2017 If you remove the Freon, then the compressor will not come on because the low pressure sensor will not allow it to come on. When the system is charged then that sensor does allow the compressor to engage. An overcharged system should not blow a fuse since the compressor is run by the engine. This only leaves the clutch assembly, and the wiring to that assembly. I would unplug the wiring at the compressor and turn the system on just like I expected the system to work. If the fuse still blows, expect the wiring has a direct short. If it does not blow, plug the compressor back and expect it to blow again. I would not expect that only the clutch assembly can be replaced, but that is probably what would be wrong with the unit. Also a simpler test is to unplug the compressor and check the ohms across the two leads into the compressor, if your meter reads near 0, then that will be the culprit, also check the leads in the other direction for the same situation, this will be checking for short in the wiring harness. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted October 8, 2017 Thanks, it makes sense. So, to operate properly, this the unit must have freon in the correct amount? Thanks for the advice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 9, 2017 One other reason it might blow the fuse in heat and cool is many units automatically use the ac compressor to dry the air for the defrosters. I think your next step is to do the troubleshooting kaypsmith recommended. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks all,a lot of good info here.Have a appt with the rv dealer 12 oct to work on it.Hope they are better than my last ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 9, 2017 Unless they are family, they should bee! Luck to you and please let us know about the fix...so it might help others. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted October 19, 2017 So the RV has been taken to the RV shop. Called and they stated they were going to replace the compressor and the drier. I think it was the AC clutch, but knowing the shop, it took the easy way out. At least the dryer is being replaced. As it looks it will be in the shop a while. Anyone that is having the same problem,check the clutch first,most likely it is shorted out. Thanks for all the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted November 6, 2017 Follow up on the RV,still in the shop as the shop and my extended warrenty cannot get together.Warrenty says it will not pay for the drier to be replaced,because it is not a required part and not needed.I say it should be replaced anytime the compressor is replaced.What are your thoughts on this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abyrd Report post Posted November 6, 2017 I would insist that the drier be changed. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 6, 2017 1 hour ago, wildcatervin said: Follow up on the RV,still in the shop as the shop and my extended warrenty cannot get together.Warrenty says it will not pay for the drier to be replaced,because it is not a required part and not needed.I say it should be replaced anytime the compressor is replaced.What are your thoughts on this? Things get a little Dicey here. You need to know if the clutch failed(that is what it sounds like). If the compressor failed then the entire system should be flushed and the drier replaced to make sure the are no metal fragments in the charge system . If the clutch failed, it is outside the closed system and no material should be in the cooling loop. This is why the insurance carrier is bulking. The total labor time is probably about the same though and there should be no contamination inside the cooling loop. SO, ask what the labor rate difference is to replace the compressor and just the( clutch with the R /R time to reinstall the OEM compressor. They need to know how much oil is in the compressor before replacing the clutch, before they start the repair ! The clutch can be replaced as a component and with proper and clean R / R of the compressor to replace the clutch and then running a vacuum test and recharge should be covered, There is no way to R / R the clutch assembly without removing the compressor from the coach. NOT many service centers have the techs or tools to R /R the clutch and it is much simpler to just replace the entire assembly. That is what the shop is considering. Replacing the Compressor only in this scenario does not relay require replacing the Dryer. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 6, 2017 I would replace the drier even if I had to pay for the drier out of pocket, since they will be opening the system to replace the compressor. Darn insurance companies have a habit of excluding some items. Death insurance is the only one that I have not had a problem with yet. Need a pitchfork on this emotion, LOL. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted November 7, 2017 OK all, will pick up the RV today. Will try to post what was done to it. Know the insurance did not pay for a lot of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 7, 2017 1 hour ago, wildcatervin said: OK all,will pick up the RV today,will try to post what was done to it.Know the insurance did not pay for a lot of it. Great they got it fixed. Unfortunately this is another example why many of us self insure. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildcatervin Report post Posted November 13, 2017 Well like everybody thought, warranty people said it did not need the drier, but I had it replaced anyway. With my 200 deductible they got by with a little over 400 and mine was closer to 800. Wouldn't pay for the supplies and the bolts that broke off. Steel into aluminum doesn't work so good. Its over and just another reason that the warranty companies have a bad name. Those that have good luck with them, OK, but for me I would not recommend them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 14, 2017 Well glad you got it fixed. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
