Fridge Not Cold Enough

[waynemcisaac]

Our propane/elec fridge on a Bounder  will not go lower than 50. A normal fridge is 40. I have tried it on electric and propane and still won’t go lower. 

Any suggestions?

ps the freezer is just OK but ice cream is softer? Meat is frozen though.

[Lenp]

Sounds like the cooling unit is giving up.  Do you see any yellow/green powder residue in the rear (outside) of the frig?  If so, cooling unit is in need of replacement.

Or just replace the frig with a residential unit.

Lenp

[super8mm]

you might want to try this

 

 

[rsbilledwards]

One of the common problems is the lack of air circulation or the accmulation of heat, additional fans usually 2 will frequently help. Remove the cover up on the roof and see if there are any obstructions to the air flow. These issues are common. Call cooling unit warehouse or visit website coolingunitwarhouse,com...a great guy and very helpful located in Tenn.

[dickandlois]

10 hours ago, waynemcisaac said:

Our propane elec fridge on a Bounder  will not go lower than 50. A normal fridge is 40. I have tried it on electric and propane and still won’t go lower. 

Any suggestions

ps the freezer is just ok but ice cream is softer? Meat is frozen though thank god

The fridge in our Bounder cools very well. The thermocouple connected to the fins does need to be properly located. The fact that it is trying to cool means there is no real issue with the cooling loop, other then the possibility of a restricted orifice. The LP / electric heat exchangers do not cool as fast as a compressor unit, so recovery time is slow. 

Make sure the door seals are clean, the refrigerator box door matting surfaces are clean.

What year is your bounder?

Is the refrigerator mounted on a slid-out? 

Rich.

[waynemcisaac]

No powder anywhere

we have a 2012 bounder, no slide out, doors look clean, lots of air flow,  it's showing 50 this morning after being closed all night

if it needs extra fans then it needs replaced, what replacement fits that space?

[blakeloke]

waynemcisaac,

Not sure if the temperature issue is a new problem or an ongoing issue.  I had an absorption refrigerator/freezer on one of my pull behind campers many years ago.  Could never get the unit to cool right until I added an internal circulating fan. 

Similar to this:  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Fridge-Airator/14504360?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227010204611&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=40839147392&wl4=pla-78652165592&wl5=9027724&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=14504360&wl13=&veh=sem

That seemed to help some.

We recently replaced our absorption unit in our coach to a residential unit.  Same thing was happening in that beer wasn't cold enough and ice cream wasn't really frozen.  I think our unit was just tired and old (~10 years or so).  Plus there are inherent safety issues with the unit we had.  Search on this Forum using "Norcold" for details.  

Blake

[manholt]

waynem.

Norcold (nocold) has become famous over the last 20 years...  Do like Blake suggests, if you like COLD Blue Bell & Beer, not together!

[tbutler]

6 hours ago, waynemcisaac said:

No powder anywhere

we have a 2012 bounder, no slide out, doors look clean, lots of air flow,  it's showing 50 this morning after being closed all night

if it needs extra fans then it needs replaced, what replacement fits that space?

You haven't indicated the model so what fits is a question I can't answer.  We did our replacement for our Norcold 1200 in 2011.  The link will take you to my post with information and pictures.  There are numerous other discussions on this topic.  As said above, a search for Norcold or for Residential Refrigerator will get you to some of the other posts.

There are a variety of models that will replace that unit, most will require some adjustment in the cabinetry.  You will get a larger refrigerator if you fill the space successfully as the rear part of the Norcold is devoted to the cooling equipment and the empty space needed to operate it safely.

[waynemcisaac]

18 hours ago, Super8mm said:

you might want to try this

 

 

I don’t have on in my fridge 

[huffypuff]

Here we go about Norcold again.  The Norcold in my coach works fine going on 12 years old.  I have an aftermarket safety device installed, not the problem black box.  

[manholt]

Ray, your operating on borrowed time...some do work with no problems, most do not and the recall is still ongoing, since 2004!  Geez!

[rayin]

Everyone is shooting in the dark until waynemcissac posts the make/model of his frig.

[waynemcisaac]

all fixed, on our double door fridge, the left door has a hinged extra strip that is magnet closed and on ours for some reason it wasn't completely closing. Not sure how to fix that but until we get to someone who does, we can manually close it. 

Thank you all for your assistance

[waynemcisaac]

2012 bounder 

Dometic RM 1350

[huffypuff]

It's the heating elements in the Norcold that cause the cracks in the tubing as it get to hot and cause a crack in the tubing by overheating.  I don't use the  heating elements only propane and have a aftermarket controller not the recall box.  I don't think a residential fridge would last longer going down the road.  

 

[huffypuff]

9 hours ago, waynemcisaac said:

2012 bounder 

Dometic RM 1350

Thanks for informing us.  

[elkhartjim]

Wayne, the flapper is not a magnetic operated piece, its mechanically operated. There are guiding devices top and bottom, mounted on the box, with slots for pins on the flapper to slide in to. Check for alignment or if the pins have been damaged.

 

[five]

These Norcold/Dometic refer problems are all over the internet, on all the forums.  Here's a no charge piece of advice....get rid of those POS and get a residential refer.  Here's how it works....exactly like the one at home!

[huffypuff]

5 hours ago, FIVE said:

These Norcold/Dometic refer problems are all over the internet, on all the forums.  Here's a no charge piece of advice....get rid of those POS and get a residential refer.  Here's how it works....exactly like the one at home!

If something goes wrong with the residential refer the manufacture will say it not designed for an RV so no liability.  That is if it breaks down or catch on fire you will be out of luck with recourse.  At least I have a safety device on my fridge.  Residential mean just that, it not designed to bounce down the road.  Here is a search for certified rv refrigerators.

https://www.google.com/search?q=certified+rv+refrigerators&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj_yJ35zPnXAhXMy4MKHet6CWYQvwUIJigA&biw=1280&bih=956

 

 

[hermanmullins]

Ray, you may be correct however lots of folks said the same thing about flat panel TVs. Besides almost all of the coach makers have gone to Residential Units in their coaches.

We love the one I installed and it hasn't skipped a beat once.

Herman 

[elkhartjim]

Wayne, I hope you found a fix for your problem before the thread turned into the do's and don'ts of having a residential refrigerator. 

[five]

13 hours ago, Hermanmullins said:

Ray, you may be correct however lots of folks said the same thing about flat panel TVs. Besides almost all of the coach makers have gone to Residential Units in their coaches.

We love the one I installed and it hasn't skipped a beat once.

Herman 

Same here...virtually no mention of broken residential refers on any forums I'm on..or flat screen TVs for that matter.

[wildebill308]

Jim, I think  he found the problem. 

If I need to replace my residential refrigerator 5 times in the next 10 years it will still be cheaper than replacing with a new Domectic or Norcold once.

Bill

[hermanmullins]

Has any one heard the rumor the both Norcold and Domectic are bring out Residential 110 volt units??????????? That would fit the current openings.

If so then you may hear of a residential catching on fire.  I am sorry that isn't fair.

Herman