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bburns8

GFCI Outlet No Power

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On 8/19/2018 at 3:53 PM, rossboyer said:

The Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed.

Under the bed there is a gray small box.  I took the cover off but it has just has wires in the box and the screws I see are just holding the box down.  The wires are taped.

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21 hours ago, kaypsmith said:

Driving should not be an issue since it is AC voltage related.

Thanks.  Is it ok to use the other outlets that are working?

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2 hours ago, bburns8 said:

Thanks.  Is it ok to use the other outlets that are working

Yes, the ones that are working have no effect on the ones not working, that is the reason for circuit breakers/fuses to isolate potential problems. Sure hope that a tech has very little trouble isolating and repairing your problem.

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4 hours ago, bburns8 said:

Under the bed there is a gray small box.  I took the cover off but it has just has wires in the box and the screws I see are just holding the box down.  The wires are taped.

When I said under the bed, I didn’t mean to raise the mattress. Where is the panel that has all your circuit breakers? That where we need to know if power is getting out of the 30 amp breaker to feed your inverter. 

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1 hour ago, rossboyer said:

When I said under the bed, I didn’t mean to raise the mattress. Where is the panel that has all your circuit breakers? That where we need to know if power is getting out of the 30 amp breaker to feed your inverter. 

lol... I'm stressed and not knowledgeable with electrical.  The panel with all the circuit breakers is located under the fridge.

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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:

Yes, the ones that are working have no effect on the ones not working, that is the reason for circuit breakers/fuses to isolate potential problems. Sure hope that a tech has very little trouble isolating and repairing your problem.

Thanks, trying to find a place that can look at it or mobile unit to come to me.  Everyone is booked out.  I have a few more calls tomorrow to make.

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32 minutes ago, bburns8 said:

lol... I'm stressed and not knowledgeable with electrical.  The panel with all the circuit breakers is located under the fridge.

I would find a person that familiar with testing electrical circuits to help you and explain as they do the testing. In that way you can learn to do it yourself another time. 

When something doesn’t work, it frustrating to all of us. 

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Update:  House batteries are now dead.  I started the coach ran the generator and the batteries are not charging.  No repair shop can see my MH till end of Oct/Nov.  The mobile RV repair are also booked out for a month or longer and a few don't work on the electrical.  There is a RV repair shop 5 hours away that can get me in next Thursday.

I'm assuming the charger portion of the inverter is not working due to whatever went out.  Any ideas why the house batteries are dead and won't charge? 

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1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

I'm assuming the charger portion of the inverter is not working due to whatever went out.  Any ideas why the house batteries are dead and won't charge? 

If, as you suspect the charger section of the inverter/charger is not working, that will sure lead to dead batteries.

To save the batteries from an early death, use a stand alone charger to keep the batteries charged and/or drive to allow the alternator to charge them.

In terms of diagnostics, if you have verified that 120 VAC is reaching the inverter/charger, that any internal fuse is OK and charger section is not working, your inverter/charger is due for replacement.

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There are parasitic loads that will discharge your batteries if the charger is not working. Items like smoke or CO detectors, LED indicators etc. These will discharge your batteries. Once the voltage gets low enough, the charger can cannot recharge. They would need to be replaced. Don’t do it until you get the charger issue fixed. 

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Don’t know where the OP is located, but if you call Xantrex and get a RMA number you can carry into the repair facility in Elkhart, Indiana. Otherwise, they want you to ship someplace in the state of Washington. 

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4 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

If, as you suspect the charger section of the inverter/charger is not working, that will sure lead to dead batteries.

To save the batteries from an early death, use a stand alone charger to keep the batteries charged and/or drive to allow the alternator to charge them.

In terms of diagnostics, if you have verified that 120 VAC is reaching the inverter/charger, that any internal fuse is OK and charger section is not working, your inverter/charger is due for replacement.

Need help.  Started the coach back up to get ready to drive it.  Turned the generator on and inventer went completely out.  Engine is running but cannot work the slideouts.  Checked the chassis batteries (chassis batteries is 11.9 volts) and the voltage is going down (reversing) with the engine running.  House batteries are 8.43 volts (2 batteries together in series)

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Sounds like you are describing multiple issues-- with the batteries being at the center of the issues.  With house battery voltage where it is, the inverter/charger is programmed to NOT charge them.

Again, get a stand alone charger and let it bring them up enough that the inverter/charger might take over.

If no shore power, you can run the stand alone charger on the generator.

Then when both banks are at least 12.0, start the engine and see what the alternator does.  I find it hard to believe that BOTH inverter/charger and alternator went out at the same time.

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29 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

Sounds like you are describing multiple issues-- with the batteries being at the center of the issues.  With house battery voltage where it is, the inverter/charger is programmed to NOT charge them.

Again, get a stand alone charger and let it bring them up enough that the inverter/charger might take over.

If no shore power, you can run the stand alone charger on the generator.

Then when both banks are at least 12.0, start the engine and see what the alternator does.  I find it hard to believe that BOTH inverter/charger and alternator went out at the same time.

The generator will not turn on at all.  It  was running that it died.

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29 minutes ago, bburns8 said:

The generator will not turn on at all.  It  was running that it died.

Even if the inverter is completely out.  There are no lights on the inverter when plugged into shore power.

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Everything that is happening can be caused by deeply discharged batteries.  Remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC-- not 8.43 volts.  The inverter/charger is designed to NOT work when batteries very deeply discharged.  And, depending on what generator you have, things like the generator fuel pump run on 12 VDC.

PLEASE, get the batteries up to 12 VDC and then try everything.

Yes, you can stay on shore power and use it to run a STAND ALONE BATTERY CHARGER!

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31 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

Everything that is happening can be caused by deeply discharged batteries.  Remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC-- not 8.43 volts.  The inverter/charger is designed to NOT work when batteries very deeply discharged.  And, depending on what generator you have, things like the generator fuel pump run on 12 VDC.

PLEASE, get the batteries up to 12 VDC and then try everything.

Yes, you can stay on shore power and use it to run a STAND ALONE BATTERY CHARGER!

Ok will post update later.

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5 hours ago, rossboyer said:

There are parasitic loads that will discharge your batteries if the charger is not working. Items like smoke or CO detectors, LED indicators etc. These will discharge your batteries. Once the voltage gets low enough, the charger can cannot recharge. They would need to be replaced. Don’t do it until you get the charger issue fixed. 

Ross you have the same MH.  Where is the manual override to get the slide out in the bedroom?  The slide is in and cannot get it out.  I know where the one is in the living room.

Looked in the manual...it states to look in the slideout systems Operations Manual in the owner's Information Package, but I did receive that manual when I got the MH.  It is not in the MH folder packet that came with the MH.

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I cannot get to Manual right now, but as I remember it is under the bed. Not much to it. Just takes a ratchet and socket. The hard part is to remove  mattress. There are several screws to remove the wood plywood platform. Set it aside. You should be able to get to the works. 

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2 hours ago, rossboyer said:

I cannot get to Manual right now, but as I remember it is under the bed. Not much to it. Just takes a ratchet and socket. The hard part is to remove  mattress. There are several screws to remove the wood plywood platform. Set it aside. You should be able to get to the works. 

Thanks, the slide out finally went out.

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I had to replace the little switch that controls the bedroom slide. I might have had one in my spare electronics stock. But I think Lowe’s had them also. Found it in the fan and lighting section. 

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18 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Everything that is happening can be caused by deeply discharged batteries.  Remember, the refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC-- not 8.43 volts.  The inverter/charger is designed to NOT work when batteries very deeply discharged.  And, depending on what generator you have, things like the generator fuel pump run on 12 VDC.

PLEASE, get the batteries up to 12 VDC and then try everything.

Yes, you can stay on shore power and use it to run a STAND ALONE BATTERY CHARGER!

Can I place another stand alone battery charger on the other 2 house batteries or on the chassis batteries?

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