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Boatman1955

Inherited an Alpha, see ya 40', 2004

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So I found out in Galveston!  Salt air and Vinyl Siding don't do well either, Hardy board & Trek is your friend.   

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20 hours ago, kaypsmith said:

I sometimes wonder if salt wont corrode fiberglass!:rolleyes: Well maybe not fiberglass but my brother owned homes right on the beach near PC Florida, and the salt air down there did a number on almost every kind of metal except high grade stainless, aluminum was one of the worst to sustain damage from the salt.

Salt won't hurt fiberglass from what I have seen but it can certainly accelerate fading of the gelcoat. And yes there are many types of stainless and aluminum, and both have certain types that are recommended for marine use.:)

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11 hours ago, manholt said:

So I found out in Galveston!  Salt air and Vinyl Siding don't do well either, Hardy board & Trek is your friend.   

:) Don't know what Hardy board is but it must be good stuff!

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26 minutes ago, elkhartjim said:

HardiPlank is a fiber cement material siding.  Great stuff for home building.

 

They also make Hardiboard for under tile for flooring and walls

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On 12/27/2018 at 4:27 PM, RayIN said:

Go HERE,  then click on his links-W/pictures showing exactly how he removed, repaired, replaced his Coleman-Mach basement air conditioner. He is the ultimate authority IMO for these basement units. He's helped many owners with their units, and has a long list of where and how to obtain replacement and upgraded parts.  The only thing different, as I said, is this unit has 2 120VAC compressors inside, where standard household units  have 1  large 240VAC compressor.

I have several links to parts from Bill's website,and even new OEM units are available, if you need my links. Duner's information should be all you need though.

FWIW, I have a basement unit, it keeps our MH(see sig) very comfortable in winter and summer, regardless of our location. (hope that doesn't jink me)

I downloaded all of this good stuff today, love it!!   Thanks!

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On 12/29/2018 at 8:35 PM, WILDEBILL308 said:

Do you have any pictures of the delaminated area on the Alpha? 

Bill

Ok Bill, here are the photos. The left side is much worse than the right. As someone who has done fiberglass work on boats and truck front ends I am thinking of repair instead of replace, at least on most of it. Even though there are numerous holes, the fiberglass still appears to be bonded to the wood, which of course is a wonderful thing. My repair would be to first grind the bad area, then lightly sandblast the area, which cleans and provides incredible porous  places for fiberglass resin to infiltrate and bond into. Then I would mix resin and fiberglass to make a paste and force it into the holes with a putty knife. That should work better than gorilla hair or equivalent imho, as an integral repair than just something like gorilla hair wiped on the surface.

I know she is FILTHY but this thing is new to me and I'm not going to wash in this freezing weather...☺️

 

 

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I had the same issue on a previous "new to me" 2001 Itasca Suncruiser. 

I came to realize the damage to the sidewalls was caused by water infiltration thru several sources. One was a crack in the skylight over the shower (which allowed water into the roof and then into the wall panels, another was thru leaky top window seals in the bedroom wall, another thru compromised mirror mount seals, another thru compromised awning arm mount seals. 

Once I had all the leaks fixed, I then sanded the damaged wall areas,  used fiberglass auto body filler to fill all holes, sanded as needed, and finally repainted (sprayed) all repaired areas blending the paint to match. 

Came out really nice, MH looked like new and we never had a repeat of the issue again. 

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37 minutes ago, IanBullock said:

I had the same issue on a previous "new to me" 2001 Itasca Suncruiser. 

I came to realize the damage to the sidewalls was caused by water infiltration thru several sources. One was a crack in the skylight over the shower (which allowed water into the roof and then into the wall panels, another was thru leaky top window seals in the bedroom wall, another thru compromised mirror mount seals, another thru compromised awning arm mount seals. 

Once I had all the leaks fixed, I then sanded the damaged wall areas,  used fiberglass auto body filler to fill all holes, sanded as needed, and finally repainted (sprayed) all repaired areas blending the paint to match. 

Came out really nice, MH looked like new and we never had a repeat of the issue again. 

Thanks, Makes perfect sense to me. I will be checking for leaks today!

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Boatman, after seeing the pictures my question is how is the interior? If it is in good shape I say follow Ian's thoughts. He seemed to have made a wise choise. If you have to also have to redo the interior I myself might reconsider how to proceed. 

Good luck and I hope all works out best for you. 

Herman 

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Holes look round and uniform in size, like a tool was used to allow water to drain? 

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58 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

Boatman, after seeing the pictures my question is how is the interior? If it is in good shape I say follow Ian's thoughts. He seemed to have made a wise choise. If you have to also have to redo the interior I myself might reconsider how to proceed. 

Good luck and I hope all works out best for you. 

Herman 

The interior is basically good except that it is filthy which I am working on at the moment, but there is some water stains on the ceiling in the bedroom only, and maybe a foot forward of the sliding door for the aft cabin. I just ran my idea past a very good glass man and friend and he says yes, but he recommended epoxy instead of polyester resin if I were going to keep the coach. Yes I am. Even if I were going to sell it I have never been one to skimp on anything.

56 minutes ago, manholt said:

Holes look round and uniform in size, like a tool was used to allow water to drain? 

They are all natural!

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Thanks for posting the pictures. That is interesting. Buy any chance are there fastener/screw heads in the places where the material (Gelcoat/fiberglass) has popped out? That is better looking than it could be. This looks like a surface problem not a big structural problem. 

Bill

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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

Thanks for posting the pictures. That is interesting. Buy any chance are there fastener/screw heads in the places where the material (Gelcoat/fiberglass) has popped out? That is better looking than it could be. This looks like a surface problem not a big structural problem. 

Bill

No screw heads Bill, but I was just on the roof (yes it stopped raining long enough) and I found 4 little holes where it looks like something punched through the material. Maybe like some suggested, water getting behind the outside walls could be contributing to the problem. I have a friend who has built fiberglass boats and other fiberglass items and he is going to stop by to look at the issue. I am seeing the same thing as you as far as a surface problem and not a structural. Other than that, the roof material looks good as far as no cracks etc.. I am just wondering if I should paint the roof or apply a special coating to protect it?

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8 hours ago, manholt said:

Holes look round and uniform in size, like a tool was used to allow water to drain? 

The holes are caused by droplets of water in the walls expanding while they freeze causing the exterior surface to pop out.  That's why they all look to be about the same size and are round. 

Very common issue in older MH's found in northern states and provinces. 

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Thank you Ian!  Since I don't have much cold and no where near your weather, it had me baffled..:blink:

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1 hour ago, IanBullock said:

The holes are caused by droplets of water in the walls expanding while they freeze causing the exterior surface to pop out.  That's why they all look to be about the same size and are round. 

Very common issue in okde MH's found in northern states and provinces. 

Yes, I agree. I found a few roof leaks today and that might be contributing to the moisture on the walls.

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Boatman, good luck with your repairs. Unless you have access to a heated garage, best you can do right now is try to seal up any leaks and wait until spring to repair.  Keep in mind that there could be many other sources of water intrusion other than the roof.  Best to check all roof seams, especially where the roof meets the walls or end caps,  and seals around any wall  mounted items directly above the damaged area such as windows, mirrors, marker lights, awning supports, exhaust fans, etc.  

Carl, happy to share.  This type of damage was at first a huge mystery to me too.  Took me quite a while to figure it out myself.

 

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19 hours ago, Boatman1955 said:

I found 4 little holes where it looks like something punched through the material.

I would seal them with Dicore sealant. Look at the top of the windows and any penetrations on the roof. The seam at the front and back caps or basically any where you have a screw or penetration of the roof. 

https://dicorproducts.com/

When you start to repair,it will be important to make shure the areas are dry inside.

Bill

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On 1/6/2019 at 9:17 AM, IanBullock said:

Boatman, good luck with your repairs. Unless you have access to a heated garage, best you can do right now is try to seal up any leaks and wait until spring to repair.  Keep in mind that there could be many other sources of water intrusion other than the roof.  Best to check all roof seams, especially where the roof meets the walls or end caps,  and seals around any wall  mounted items directly above the damaged area such as windows, mirrors, marker lights, awning supports, exhaust fans, etc.  

Carl, happy to share.  This type of damage was at first a huge mystery to me too.  Took me quite a while to figure it out myself.

 

A heated garage would be ideal and would ensure that everything would be dry before repairs but I might have to settle for a carport and some warm weather.  Thanks

On 1/6/2019 at 10:42 AM, WILDEBILL308 said:

I would seal them with Dicore sealant. Look at the top of the windows and any penetrations on the roof. The seam at the front and back caps or basically any where you have a screw or penetration of the roof. 

https://dicorproducts.com/

When you start to repair,it will be important to make shure the areas are dry inside.

Bill

Thanks Bill!

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There is that thought, how long have the 4 little holes been there & under what kind of weather condition?  That leads to the question of what does the roof underneath look like?  dry root, wet, mold etc. come to mind...don't close the barn after the horse! 

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10 hours ago, Boatman1955 said:

I might have to settle for a carport and some warm weather.

Yes drying it is going to be important step in doing the repairs. 

Bill

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