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The entry door on my 2004 30' Holiday Rambler Admiral is sprung requiring it to be slammed hard from the inside or pushed hard from the outside at the latch assembly to close, engage the second level latch and lock. The top and bottom of the door strike the frame before the center does and there appears to be about a 1/4-3/8" gap in the center of the latch side edge between the door and the frame where the latch engages the door lock post. I have already adjusted the post out as far as possible which didn't help much. Sighting up the lock side edge of the door from below clearly shows the bow in the door. My thinking is to place a couple 2x4" blocks about six inches long between the door and the frame at the top and bottom of the door. Then connect a turnbuckle and chain between the door lock post and the closed latch assembly. I can then slowly shorten the turnbuckle to straighten the door. I considered just using the two blocks and pushing on the outside center of the door, but I am concerned about uneven pressure and going too far. Seems like the turnbuckle will allow a more gradual approach checking alignment after shortening the turnbuckle just a bit.

Have any of you solved this problem, and how have you approached it?

The coach is new to me and has always had the problem since I acquired it. 

Thanks, 

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Doug,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

Your approach sounds like a sound one.  Likely you will have to "over bend" as it will try to spring back a little to its current shape.  So, may take a couple of times to get it right.

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I have a similar problem with the side entry door on my Safari. It closes fine and latches but there is a gap at the top. I used a string line to see how much the door was bent and found it was perfectly straight. Turns out the door jamb is bowed in the center which won't allow the door to seal at the top or bottom. You should be able to straighten the door with method you described just make sure its the door.

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Do do you propose to prevent breaking the door glass? When an auto door is sprung you may lower the window to prevent breakage when returning it to normal, this is more complicated. Removing the window is safest IMO.

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I straightened or rather bent my door this afternoon and it now conforms to the door jamb and seals top to bottom. I used a square screw driver handle at the center and I had the DW push at the bottom while I pushed at the top. A couple of tweeks later and its all good now!

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