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Just when  I thought everything was fixed on the coach, something else breaks.  DW comes to me and asked why isn't the bedroom slide working?  I go inside the coach, press the button, the motor runs but no go.  I removed the mattress and a few panels underneath and see the gearbox turning but nothing else.  Of course since the slide is in there is no way for me to reach the motor gearbox assembly cause I'm too fat to get under.  I took pictures to try to identified the slide  motor and shaft assemblies.  

This is looking from the top with the mattress board uo and a few panels removed.  I have to get the motor and gear assembly to the opening at this end of the trace to work on it.  Of course it's at the other end of the track. 

slide_top.thumb.jpg.46f59ec360c9effb5dd582770be0c94b.jpg 

 

This is a 18 to 1 motor it runs and turns the gearcase.  

slide_motor.thumb.jpg.411481a1ff197e0274c39455f9ef21b5.jpg

 

This is the gearcase and the removable nut and hairpin.  That nut turns but nothing happens beyond it so me turning that nut will not put the slide in or out.  

slide_gearcase.thumb.jpg.41141407b1df5f9fbac44135ecb3bab7.jpg

 

This is the shaft to the other side of the gear that's not turning.  This shaft goes through the track, gear and another 90 degree gearbox.  I'm thinking I need to removed the hairpin and nut from gearbox and install on this shaft to crank out the slide.  Did I say I'm too fat to get under there.   slide_shaft.thumb.jpg.3c2aa18e3744f601ac926627094eb108.jpg

 

I need to get the slide out to work on it and DW and I too weak to push it.   

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16 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

Ray, that's what grandkids are good for.:)

They not visiting until summer, too long to wait.  I'll find a way to stretch my arm.  😨

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Ray, From your description it sounds like there is a problem in the planetary gear section of the gear box. 

Most common problem is the bushing that keeps the center shaft centered in the gearbox. It wears an oblong hole in the casting. Fixable with the proper equipment.

Getting the slide out opened takes a little extra manpower and removing as much of the load without dissembling everything helps.

Rich. 

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2 hours ago, DickandLois said:

Ray, From your description it sounds like there is a problem in the planetary gear section of the gear box. 

Most common problem is the bushing that keeps the center shaft centered in the gearbox. It wears an oblong hole in the casting. Fixable with the proper equipment.

Getting the slide out opened takes a little extra manpower and removing as much of the load without dissembling everything helps.

Rich. 

Rich, The gearbox is turning but there appears to be a couple of couplings that could came loose.  1st the gearbox to 90 degree transfer box, 2nd the transfer box to the gear driveshaft.  I will find out tonight if I can reach anything.  We have the slide unloaded  as much as we can and can't push it out.   

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A neighbor stopped by and we were able to shove it out most of the way.  We had one of us each on the night stands and upper wall on both side.  Whew!

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I got the motor and shaft assembly out and apart.  I found the pin on the long gear shaft broken in the 90 degree gearbox.    I have to take that gearbox apart to install a new pin.  below is more pictures.

Once the slide is out the motors and gearboxes assembly is in view.

Slide_assembly.thumb.jpg.03cedf390b6aaabe4cce6f90da22c848.jpg

 

The gearboxes are out and separated 

slide_apart.thumb.jpg.4e18e46221029946753a5d9adbce2dcd.jpg

 

This is the 90 degree gearcase

slide_90_box.thumb.jpg.e06af2467d73b7814d44dab29def5b2a.jpg

 

This is the long shaft that drives the gear on the track.

slide_long_shaft.thumb.jpg.ff90e084d0dbff6130b7be2862cd508f.jpg

 

This is the broken pin in the long shaft and why it don't turn

slide_drive_pin.thumb.jpg.0bbe8d2b88ffc9ff3655a57ce977f8a7.jpg

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2 hours ago, jleamont said:

Well at least its a cheap fix, you could use a break! 

I have to take the 90 degree transfer gearbox apart to install a new pin probably in a gear.  I wonder what oil or grease I use in it.  I also wonder if it has a gasket.

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Puff, I feel your pain!

Shortly after we bought our HR the bedroom slide wouldn't close properly, I thought it was a clutch adjustment, turned out the bed frame was broken causing the rollers to hop off of the stainless steel plates they ride on which made the slide close crooked. I still have no idea how the frame broke, but I got a first hand experience with the track system and motor. I remember thinking how happy I was that it was still operational to open for access. I was impressed at how robust the drive unit was, looked like everything was made from Billet Aluminum, not what I had expected to see. 

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8 hours ago, huffypuff said:

I have to take the 90 degree transfer gearbox apart to install a new pin probably in a gear.  I wonder what oil or grease I use in it.  I also wonder if it has a gasket.

Ray, A good grade of grease makes a super lubricant. No oil to leak out and a good surface contact will keep the grease inside the gearbox. Should there be a crack or gap at any points between the 2 sections a traced out gasket will work well to seal things up. Should ether half of the gearbox be creaked / one can use Argon Co-2  gas Mig and fix the damage (works well up to 1/8 in.thickness) if it is a good Aluminium casting. 

The broken pin looks like common rolled split pin. Should be able to remove with the correct size center pin. 

Also, a good time to check for any run out ware on the primary gear center pin /axle  or the  casting bore. 

Rich.

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Well I popper it open and you can see the gasket ripped in half.  I can fix that with rtv silicone.  I'm thinking of instead of using a roll pin, maybe it would be better to use a grade 8 bolt and a lock nut.  After I install the 1/4x1 1/2 inch bolt and lock washer I can cut off the excess threads.  After everything is cleaned up I will pack the gears with extreme pressure grease. 

slide_gearcase_open.thumb.jpg.80610121074e7f28365fb8b6e0d6ea03.jpg 

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Puff, if it were me id consider a Grade 5 or a shear bolt (like a snow blower drive bolt). Grade 8 could potentially be too strong and in the event of a binding you would want that to be the point of failure, not the gear box.

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4 hours ago, jleamont said:

Puff, if it were me id consider a Grade 5 or a shear bolt (like a snow blower drive bolt). Grade 8 could potentially be too strong and in the event of a binding you would want that to be the point of failure, not the gear box.

Yes that pin sure was a weak point and lots of work to replace.  To remove and installed it you have to thread that long shaft with gearbox attached through two bushing, installing a keyway for a another gear and locking it down with two set screws all laying upside down.  Then install two bolts through the frame into the gearbox.  Install the other gearbox is easy providing that the slide is all the way out and in view.  I guess my 66 years is catching up to me. 

I haven't been able to teach DW to be gentle on these slides or the proper procedures.  I have to give it a thought but looks like I will have to replace the whole thing next time because grade 8 is more robust.  They still break on the dining room slide as it slides on nylon blocks the length of the slides.  decision, decision  🤔

I need to add that the motor has the same drive pin acting as a coupling off the gearbox and may contain a clutch.  I think that will be next to break.  

Edited by huffypuff
show second thought

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2 hours ago, huffypuff said:

DW to be gentle on these slides or the proper procedures

Ahh, you have the same issue as me! Mine holds the button in until the clutch slips rather than letting off of it when you hear it bog down. 

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31 minutes ago, jleamont said:

Ahh, you have the same issue as me! Mine holds the button in until the clutch slips rather than letting off of it when you hear it bog down. 

Never mind the repair, I clean up the gear with the broken pin and that gear is worn out.   It appears to be made out of brass.  SMH  I was able to order the complete gearbox with shaft for $125 plus $15 shipping.  The complete unit with motor and both gearboxes is $250.  I will post pictures of the worn gear when I get a chance.  

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15 hours ago, jleamont said:

Puff, if it were me id consider a Grade 5 or a shear bolt (like a snow blower drive bolt). Grade 8 could potentially be too strong and in the event of a binding you would want that to be the point of failure, not the gear box.

Yup, you want the cheapest, easiest to replace part to be the first to break. Not much logic in installing a $3 bolt that will cause a $100 gearbox to fail instead.

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There is a reason why a shear pin is used instead of a grade 8 bolt. By using a bolt, you will be moving the weak point to the gear box or motor. I would rather replace the .50 cent pin than replacing the $250 gear box. Just a thought.

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Ray,

Do you think it's worth the effort to be proactive and perform maintenance on the gear boxes or to run until failure? Was the failure do to lack of lubricant or contamination on the lubricant?

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8 hours ago, huffypuff said:

I will post pictures of the worn gear when I get a chance.  

As promised, here is a picture of the worn out gear made of brass.  This will be sure to break again grade 8 bolt or not.  Didn't I say above the I got a new one coming?

slide_worn_gear.thumb.jpg.7d4bcd371cee24a5c043eddab6195da9.jpg

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17 minutes ago, f433921 said:

Ray,

Do you think it's worth the effort to be proactive and perform maintenance on the gear boxes or to run until failure? Was the failure do to lack of lubricant or contamination on the lubricant?

I believe if it was oil filled it may last longer.  No to repacking so often as to much trouble to R&R.   

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37 minutes ago, f442485 said:

There is a reason why a shear pin is used instead of a grade 8 bolt. By using a bolt, you will be moving the weak point to the gear box or motor. I would rather replace the .50 cent pin than replacing the $250 gear box. Just a thought.

I'm halfway there anyway.  🤣

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Ray, to R&R every 13 years?  Not bad...odds are, you'll have a different coach or no coach in 12! :ph34r:

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8 hours ago, manholt said:

Ray, to R&R every 13 years?  Not bad...odds are, you'll have a different coach or no coach in 12! :ph34r:

Everytime something breaks DW wants to sell and buy new.  I keep telling her it's cheaper to fix it.  Guess who going to win that argument.  

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