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RayIN

rear brake overheated-Is it a covered item?

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I had just pulled into a CG when the TPMS overtemperature alarm(160°) sounded for the LR inner tire, the rest of the MH tires read < 130°. I'm guessing it is the brake canister, anyway, I don't know if it is covered by FMCA roadside assistance. Any advice or direct knowledge? The only mobile mechanic service here wants a $250 minimum service call +????

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Or exhaust leak on inner tire  or just a little low on pressure 

brake would smoke or pull if dragging 

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33 minutes ago, bm02tj said:

Or exhaust leak on inner tire  or just a little low on pressure 

brake would smoke or pull if dragging 

Not applicable bm02tj. The TPMS displayed within 5 psi the same tire pressure as the other 3 dual tires. The diesel exhaust is on the starboard side of the MH. As I said, it just happened as I pulled into the CG, not enough time to smoke the brake shoes, the inner dual tire did not feel hotter than the outer tire.

What do you know about the ERS coverage?

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1 hour ago, RayIN said:

Not applicable bm02tj. The TPMS displayed within 5 psi the same tire pressure as the other 3 dual tires. The diesel exhaust is on the starboard side of the MH. As I said, it just happened as I pulled into the CG, not enough time to smoke the brake shoes, the inner dual tire did not feel hotter than the outer tire.

What do you know about the ERS coverage?

Not likely covered, road service covers. lockouts, fuel delivery, jump start(battery?), tire air up and tire replacement(Tire ?) .

I have seen them working on the area of the brakes of heavy duty trucks. 

Think it would be worth a call and see if the service you have will release the brake in question. having the parts on the service truck questionable. 

Rich.

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Ryan do you have an infrared temp gauge? If so I would check the tire temperature ture to make sure it's not your TPMS that is giving a false reading.

Herman  

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I didn't think of using it Herman, within 15 minutes temperature had dropped to the same as the other rears. I considered a failing battery but the air pressure was reading correctly, still should change it JIC.  Didn't think of doing another air brake test either, I'm used to doing one each travel morning. Tomorrow I'll take a look underneath to see if the canister is leaking air or the air line;  the air gauges showed steady pressure.  Got any views on if the ERS will help?

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1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

Not likely covered, road service covers. lockouts, fuel delivery, jump start(battery?), tire air up and tire replacement(Tire ?) .

I have seen them working on the area of the brakes of heavy duty trucks. 

Think it would be worth a call and see if the service you have will release the brake in question. having the parts on the service truck questionable. 

Rich.

1

I was hoping someone knows all about FMCA ERS coverage. I'll call them tomorrow since it is not an emergency .

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I think the only services you will receive from the ERS provider is towing to a qualified service center and they may possibly cover the trip charges for roadside mechanical service.  You would be responsible for any roadside labor and parts if required.

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Can’t help if it’s covered.

After the air brake test (depending on results) park on a slight incline and release the parking brake, does it roll?

If it’s bypassing internally you should hear air rushing through the parking brake switch.

Depending on the manufacturer you might not observe an audible air leak. Haldex brake chambers are the one common manufacturer that will make you scratch your head when the internal diaphragm fails. 

Trying to get an answer without crawling under to see if they are released or not. That’s the last resort!

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OK, thanks guys. I'll call FMCA ERS tomorrow and talk to their tech services. So far my action plan is; perform another air brake test, replace that sensor battery-JIC, crawl under enough to put eyes on the  brake canister and measure travel distance compared to starboard side,  take a short test drive, call FMCA ERS tech service with that information and ask questions.

This( thank you Rich) is from the FMCA ERS plan:"Mobile Mechanic Dispatch Service. In the event of a mechanical breakdown, SafeRide RV Motor Club will assist in arranging the dispatch of a mobile mechanic to the customer’s location, if the customer is more than 50 miles from the nearest repair facility. The customer is responsible for all charges related to on-site repairs, including travel fees, parts and labor."

I'm not surprised or upset with this, at 19 yrs old things happen for many reasons.

FWIW here are a couple links to air brake systems I'm studying. It has helped me better grasp what may have happened.

flxibleowners.org/article-the-brake-system/

https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Bepco_Air_Brake_Trbl_Chart.pdf

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Is the only symptom higher temp on one side? If so, have you thought about a hub/bearing issue? A failing hub/bearing can create high temp issues. Not sure if you have oil or grease in your rear bearings, but if they are oil then checking oil level might be a good idea.

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14 hours ago, jleamont said:

Rayin, any update on your problem?

Apparently the sensor battery change had some effect, after the new battery was installed the ambient temperature reads the same(was 20° higher) as the rest of the tires. Air brake test met the standards. differential oil level is OK @ 1" below fill hole. The air plumbing appears OK by looking at it from the opposite side with my bright flashlight, taking a test run tomorrow, if the temperature of that left inner dual begins to rise above the right inner dual again I will be within 20 miles of a truck stop where they have a service shop.°

I would not crawl underneath without blocking or two 12T jack stands anyway, life' too short as it is without thumbing my nose at fate.

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While driving that sensor read ~15° higher than the other rears today. I confirmed it with a heat gun when I stopped for a rest break. I'll be home tomorrow,  just about 135 mi drive. I will call Carmichael's Truck repair tomorrow as soon as they open at 8AM and make an appt. to have him check everything possible that may be the cause.

Thanks for the support and helpful information guys!

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On 6/7/2019 at 5:16 PM, RayIN said:

Apparently the sensor battery change had some effect, after the new battery was installed the ambient temperature reads the same(was 20° higher) as the rest of the tires. Air brake test met the standards. differential oil level is OK @ 1" below fill hole. The air plumbing appears OK by looking at it from the opposite side with my bright flashlight, taking a test run tomorrow, if the temperature of that left inner dual begins to rise above the right inner dual again I will be within 20 miles of a truck stop where they have a service shop.°

I would not crawl underneath without blocking or two 12T jack stands anyway, life' too short as it is without thumbing my nose at fate.

Diff oil should be up to hole not 1 in below 

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5 hours ago, bm02tj said:

Diff oil should be up to hole not 1 in below 

I asked my SIL, who is general manager of truck fleet maintenance for a nationwide carrier. He said  the fill hole is of course maximum fill, 1" below is minimum level. Rule of thumb is, if you can touch the oil with your index finger while it's bent at the first joint into the fill hole, the oil level is OK.I suppose he knows what he says, he's held that position for 16 years so far. I'm not going to add oil; replace it instead.

BTW, the last leg of our trip the temperature sent by that tire sensor read the same as the other 3 rears, confirmed by heat gun. That eliminates anything mechanical as the cause of the previous higher temperature readings. I will not know anything further until I get the MH up on my ramps, or over my friends pit, this week to safely get underneath and do a thorough inspection.

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1 inch below will starve a wheel bearing and cause heat and failure.

Your bent finger touching the oil will be 3/8 to 1/2 low.

Just for chuckles I looked in my Freightliner book. It  says level with the threads.

googled Rockwell diff and same  thing.

Add oil before you drive it may save you cash if it is not to late.

 

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I agree with the above post.Oil level at threads.It doesn't take much lower to be below the axle tubes.Also,the inner dual wraps around the drum itself,so maybe the heat from that brake drum could cause the inner wheel to be a tick hotter,? I don't know.One brake shoe could possibly be working harder than the other side?

 

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If the differential oil level was the cause of the overheating, wouldn't you see it on both  inter wheels , not just one side?

Jim

 

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6 hours ago, F433921 said:

If the differential oil level was the cause of the overheating, wouldn't you see it on both  inter wheels , not just one side?

Jim

 

Possibly road slope had something to do with exaggerating the problem on the uphill side?

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3 hours ago, manholt said:

I would be taking a good, hard look at the bearings, about now! :rolleyes:

The fact that the last leg of the trip was driven with normal temperatures  observed on all 4 tires by tire sensors and confirmed by heat gun, I doubt the bearing is generating the heat. It's a lot more likely that a brake shoe was dragging.

Plus it's much easier to check the brake than the bearing, if nothing if found on brake then proceed to check bearing.

Jim

 

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