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dbrown048

Headliner dropping down

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1 hour ago, manholt said:

You said that you had bubbles in other area, that didn't show in these pictures.  I would have everything looked at, sounds like you have more than one small leak...There are several choices depending on where you live or currently are.  I would not attempt this myself, so I would either take my coach to RV Repair, Houston, Texas or the Manufacturer!

I'm

 

24 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

d,

As you said "IF" you decide to do it yourself then that would be good time to check several things. First look at the back of the panel and see if there are any signs of water. If so then go further and see if you can see any signs of a leak. If there is no signs on the back side of the panel then you are good to go.

Another thought. If you have the panel down and get the fabric from Winnebago, why not take it to an auto upholstery and have them glue the new fabric on. They are experienced in headliners and know how to do it without wrinkles.

Let us know how you make out.

Herman

I'm in Lewisville, TX about due west of Plano.  Plan on heading south to Waco, Austin, San Antonio, etc.  Visiting Texas for about 2 months or so.  We're from South Carolina - and trying to recover from Clemson's loss to LSU

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1 hour ago, dbrown048 said:

 Pull headliner down & discard

That's a thought!

Perhaps pull it down, cut along the cabinet edge and replace the ceiling in that area with something custom that is more manageable? I saw a coach that someone installed antique looking metal tiles (they weren't metal, it was a recycled composite product) along with window treatments that had a dated look from that era and it looked great. I am sure there are many options available if you think outside of the box and you are a DIY'R. 

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Sorry, but I'm a "Go LSU Tigre" fan! Spent a year there 1969.  I will admit, Clemson is the gold standard to beat...has been for a long time!

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9 minutes ago, manholt said:

Sorry, but I'm a "Go LSU Tigre" fan! Spent a year there 1969.  I will admit, Clemson is the gold standard to beat...has been for a long time!

You guys gave us a good “whuppin’”.  Glad there wasn’t any controversy- except maybe Mr Beckham.

 

Called Dave and discussed my problem.  Got a “guesstimate “ price. Now discuss it with the wife, and go from there.

 Thanks again for your help.

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On 1/15/2020 at 8:35 PM, richard5933 said:

I've had success repairing a similarly-troubled headliner in a car before using 3M spray adhesive. It's basically contact cement in a spray can - apply to both surfaces, let it dry till the shine is gone, and then put things back together. You only get one shot though, cause once this stuff sticks it will want to stay stuck.

Best to remove the panel and do the repair elsewhere - that spray will get all over everything if you do it in place. And, it will have fumes till it cures a few hours. (No fumes after that.)

They make a few different flavors of 3M spray adhesive - you want the one that is meant to be permanent. I've used the stuff to hold foam sound insulation against the back of a generator cabinet before, and it is great for holding vinyl and fabric to most materials.

HEY RICHARD,

How'd you handle the fumes?  Some where I saw you're supposed to scrape off the foam from the panel and then wipe it down with Acetone - which of course is highly flammable.  Then you spray both the new covering and the panel with 2 coats of adhesive - which contains another highly flammable solvent.  How'd you prevent building up an explosive condition in the car?  If I do it, I'll have both ceiling fans running and several windows open to pull air thru the coach, but I still get concerned about the high build up of flammable gases.

 

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9 hours ago, dbrown048 said:

HEY RICHARD,

How'd you handle the fumes?  ...

 

LOTS of ventilation (all windows open, etc.) and use a good mask which filters out organic vapors. This is not a project to do in the winter, unless you live somewhere warm enough to work with the windows open.

With proper ventilation and a mask, these products are fine to work with. If you get suited up, you should not be able to smell the fumes through your mask. If you do, then you need to work on the mask fitment. Lots of good reading on this online. Don't cheap out on the mask - you want one with filter canisters which are specifically rated for use with organic vapors. A paper or fabric dust make will not suffice here.

If you're working above your head, some type of disposable head covering is a good idea. An old t-shirt can be used for this - just put your face in the neck opening and then tie the shirt behind your neck.

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