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Transmission coolers for Allison 3000

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Has anyone had an additional transmission cooler added to an Allison 3000   Class A ISL 8.9 400 hp / 1200 torque  Freightliner 2005  if so what and where did you get it ? 

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7 hours ago, sunlover19 said:

Has anyone had an additional transmission cooler added to an Allison 3000   Class A ISL 8.9 400 hp / 1200 torque  Freightliner 2005  if so what and where did you get it ? 

This would be a new one for me, I have never heard of anyone needing additional cooling on an Allison. Is there an issues with overheating you are trying to correct? 

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Joe, It is a new one to me also. If he has a heat issue with the Allison, wondering if it has something to do with the crossover pipe or hoses. The cooling system splits in the area.

Think you have the info I sent you a while back . Aftermarket is kind of in you back yard, if it turns out to be  NLA.  That part of the system is 15 years old.

Rich.

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10 hours ago, sunlover19 said:

Has anyone had an additional transmission cooler added to an Allison 3000   Class A ISL 8.9 400 hp / 1200 torque  Freightliner 2005  if so what and where did you get it ? 

Is your transmission overheating? 

Bill

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I do believe that they undersized the radiator in these rigs, another friend has the same type but a 2006 model with twice the miles mine has on it. They are both side radiators also, it's fine till you start climbing, yes the outside temperatures are in the 90s too which doesn't help, l had gasser motorhomes pass me on the Baker grade heading to Las Vegas l do keep the rpms at 2000 to help, only towing a small car with us. That's why l thought if a trans cooler would help pull some heat out because of the undersized radiator. Thanks for all your help and suggestions 

 

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3 hours ago, sunlover19 said:

I do believe that they undersized the radiator in these rigs, another friend has the same type but a 2006 model with twice the miles mine has on it. They are both side radiators also, it's fine till you start climbing, yes the outside temperatures are in the 90s too which doesn't help, l had gasser motorhomes pass me on the Baker grade heading to Las Vegas l do keep the rpms at 2000 to help, only towing a small car with us. That's why l thought if a trans cooler would help pull some heat out because of the undersized radiator. Thanks for all your help and suggestions 

 

Apparently you are under a false impression. The radiator does not cool transmission oil, the coils in the bottom of a standard radiator are there to heat the AT oil quicker for better transmission performance. Yes, it can provide a minimal oil cooling, but only when the transmission is severely overheated, over 230°F. Normal diesel engine operating temperature is between 180° and 210°

Example: I had my AT oil N filters changed per schedule last year, the next trip I noticed the AT temperature was 10-20° less, pulling the same towed, driving the same interstates.

The AT oil has it's own oil cooler/radiator for  cooling hot oil. If your AT is overheating, there are several possibilities. The primary reason is lack of proper maintenance/changing AT oil  and filters per the mfgrs. maintenance schedule.

Edited by RayIN

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Side radiator should do just fine and likely very little debri between the AC and radiator. What about a poorly functioning thermostat or regulator? Maybe the water pump is faulty, as in worn blades. Another means to pull heat from the system would be a water mistor that is directed into the air stream at the radiator. Several folks have done this with great results. We did that to help cooling on air cooled Porshes while racing. It does not require much water at all. Another potential remedy is to add a water wetter to the coolant. Pay attention to quantity since more is not better. Lastly maybe it is not hot after all. If the coach has anologue guages they are notorious for being inaccurate! Suggest you look in to a Silverleaf product to track the system ECM data. It can be done for around 300 dollars and a small laptop.

Ray, I do not think he is saying the trans is over heating. I believe he is just saying it is a place to enter the system to aid in pulling the percieved overheat from the radiator.  It would be much easier to tap these lines than any of the radiator 2+inch hoses. 

My trans temps mirror pretty close the coolant unless under a good load climbing and then trans temp does increase.

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All good points for me to check into more when we get back home. The coach only has 36,000 miles, l had the coolant changed recently, when we bought the rig 3 years ago l discovered it had a bad ECM module which was replaced and flashed by Cummins it wouldn't tell the hydraulic pump fan to speed up or slow down so it ran on slow speed, I will have to get under the rig and do some searching. 

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I don't know any of the history on this rig since we bought it so l I'm not sure of its service history, l assume it being a 2005 it would use standard transmission oil but maybe it's that transyn type not sure but the Cummins dealer said it would take 2 trans oil changes if  he goes with the transyn type is that a correct assumption ?  Seems that if it had proper service on it the oil would be ok but it's a 15 year old rig so maybe not so just change it when we get back 

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3 hours ago, sunlover19 said:

l discovered it had a bad ECM module which was replaced and flashed by Cummins it wouldn't tell the hydraulic pump fan to speed up or slow down so it ran on slow speed, 

So does it run at the proper speed now? 

Bill

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Even after it was replaced it still did but it took it a lot longer to heat up but l heard that they didn't put a large enough radiator in these, whether that is true or not who knows from that rumor. I appreciate everyone's tips for me to check out.

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11 hours ago, RSBILLEDWARDS said:

Side radiator should do just fine and likely very little debri between the AC and radiator. What about a poorly functioning thermostat or regulator? Maybe the water pump is faulty, as in worn blades. Another means to pull heat from the system would be a water mistor that is directed into the air stream at the radiator. Several folks have done this with great results. We did that to help cooling on air cooled Porshes while racing. It does not require much water at all. Another potential remedy is to add a water wetter to the coolant. Pay attention to quantity since more is not better. Lastly maybe it is not hot after all. If the coach has anologue guages they are notorious for being inaccurate! Suggest you look in to a Silverleaf product to track the system ECM data. It can be done for around 300 dollars and a small laptop.

Ray, I do not think he is saying the trans is over heating. I believe he is just saying it is a place to enter the system to aid in pulling the percieved overheat from the radiator.  It would be much easier to tap these lines than any of the radiator 2+inch hoses. 

My trans temps mirror pretty close the coolant unless under a good load climbing and then trans temp does increase.

Re-read his original post, I take it to say the transmission is overheating because he wants to install another transmission cooler. On a Spartan chassis the transmission cooler lines are not connected to the coolant radiator. Gas engine chassis do  have the tranny lines ran to the coolant radiator first. I don't know about rear radiator chassis. I just re-re-re-read his initial post, he has a 2005 Freightliner chassis, so it must be a rear radiator setup.

Edited by RayIN

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Rayin,  As you said to me "re-read"  he says it is a side radiator. I do not know how to say it so won't but on my coach the transmission fluid appears to be cooled by radiator coolant, NOT at the radiator but its own cooler in line with the rest of the coolant system. Now maybe Joe will settle this one for me. I am guessin the temp is taken other than at the radiator. I don't have the coach here to go examine the system. Please reread my post as to why I think he wants to use the transmission fluid as a point for extracting heat from the whole system. A careful reading should explain the reason. 

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9 hours ago, sunlover19 said:

Even after it was replaced it still did but it took it a lot longer to heat up but l heard that they didn't put a large enough radiator in these, whether that is true or not who knows from that rumor. I appreciate everyone's tips for me to check out.

When it starts to get hot do you downshift to reduce load and increase coolant flow. Any setup will run hot if you are "lugging" the engine. To bad you don't have a EGT gage it is a very helpful tool to tell you what is going on. On my last coach with a 5.9 and rear radiator the transmission temps were the last thing to raise when under load. 

Bill 

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The model is a Mandalay model E 2005 l would think the dealer used the correct mixture of coolant almost 9 gallons it holds. I do keep the rpms at 2000 to keep it flowing while downshifting while climbing 

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I would try and shine a light through the radiator stack. My guess it’s partially blocked with crud. My side radiator was and it cleaned up after a few doses of cleaner and washing. 

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Here is the product recommended on many posts;

https://www.google.com/amp/s/simplegreen.com/products/extreme-motorsports-cleaner-degreaser/
 

I put it into a lawn pump sprayer and was able to get the nozzle between the radiator and Innercooler. Soak it down and rinse with a garden hose. As mentioned no pressure washer.

might take a few times to clear it all but will be worth your time. 

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Thanks, l will have to pick up a bottle or two.  Friend of mine who has the same motorhome put a spray mister on his but I'm not interested in doing that, l thought about putting an electric fan on the condenser side and blow air through the stack in addition to the hydraulic fan on the other side. 

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16 minutes ago, sunlover19 said:

Thanks, l will have to pick up a bottle or two.  Friend of mine who has the same motorhome put a spray mister on his but I'm not interested in doing that, l thought about putting an electric fan on the condenser side and blow air through the stack in addition to the hydraulic fan on the other side. 

My 1999 Spartan MM GT chassis came with two electric fans on the outside of the radiator 'sandwich", then the standard hydraulic fan is on the inside pulling inward. The two electric fans appear to be 12" diameter, all you would need is the controller and two fans from a salvage yard.

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