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richard5933

Shutterstat Fluid

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Here's a question that I'm hoping someone can help with...

My coach has radiator shutters. They work and do their job. The problem is with feeding them. There is an airline filter/oiler upstream from the air cylinder which closes the louvers, and it's supposed to be filled with about an ounce of Shutterstat Fluid. Kysor made all the components as well as the Shutterstat Fluid, but of course they are long gone and the fluid is nowhere to be found.

So now the question...

Anyone have a clue what the modern equivalent to Shutterstat Fluid is? My guess from reading what I could find about it online is that it's a pretty lightweight oil, similar to a penetrating oil but with good lubrication qualities.

Thoughts?

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I agree with Bill, air tool oil contains no additives to dry-out or ruin seals. I estimate it is near 5W oil, I'd have to go read my can to be sure. I  used a few drops to get my air cylinder that moves my step cover working again. That was 3 years ago, still works fine.

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Thanks for the suggestions.

From what I've seen, air tool oil is typically 10w. It seems to be the suggestion I'm getting most commonly for this application, although it's slightly thicker than the Shutterstat fluid. I've seen one military technical bulletin which called for either Shutterstat fluid or a mixture of dry cleaning solvent and 10w oil. Seemed like that might be really thin, but I've never actually seen Shutterstat fluid so I have no point of reference.

One thing I was considering was something like Sea Foam Deep Creep. Their tech suggested that it was safe for rubber compounds as leather seals, so it might work.

I do find it odd that there is no cross reference for things like this.

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10 hours ago, wildebill308 said:

I would stick to the air tool oil because it has additives to keep it from gumming up and leaving deposits also it is safe for rubber seals.

Bill

My only concern is if the air tool oil is thin enough. The airline oiler has two compartments - the one on the left contains a few felt pads with a wick winding through them, and the one on the right has the filter screen and water trap. The wick goes from the left compartment into the right one, and as air flows over the wick oil is picked up. Not sure if air tool oil has a low enough viscosity to make it through the felt pads, into the wick, and then into the air flow. My guess is that Shutterstat fluid was super thin so that it could be used in this way. Otherwise, I'm there with you.

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2 hours ago, markstella said:

How about Marvel Mystery Oil?

Despite its name it isn't a lubricating oil.

Bill

3 hours ago, richard5933 said:

My only concern is if the air tool oil is thin enough. The airline oiler has two compartments - the one on the left contains a few felt pads with a wick winding through them, and the one on the right has the filter screen and water trap. The wick goes from the left compartment into the right one, and as air flows over the wick oil is picked up. Not sure if air tool oil has a low enough viscosity to make it through the felt pads, into the wick, and then into the air flow. My guess is that Shutterstat fluid was super thin so that it could be used in this way. Otherwise, I'm there with you.

What you describe covers most in line oilers. They are not oil injectors but add just a small, just a hint of oil to the system. So how long has it been since you have had oil in the airline oiler? If I was doing it I would add a couple drops maybe 4 to the line the "wick" empties into. This will make shure the system is lubed while the new oil is working through the system. 

Can you get the system to cykle open/shut using the air? That would help distribute the new oil through the system. I don't know enough about the system.^_^

Bill

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59 minutes ago, wildebill308 said:

...Can you get the system to cycle open/shut using the air? That would help distribute the new oil through the system. I don't know enough about the system.^_^

Bill

Easy to do this. I connected the shop compressor to the coach to test the shutter system out, and all is functional and works as intended. There is a slight air leak at the gasket sealing the lid of the oiler, and I've got a rebuild kit on the way. It contains a new gasket, new felt pads, a new wick, and a new filter screen. The only thing missing is the Shutterstat fluid.

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motor oil will wick so I'm confident air tool oil will also. When I was a boy I watched my uncle insert a short length of hemp rope into a bucket of  black motor oil on a stool, the other end was just above an empty pail on the floor. a few days later the oil in the floor bucket was clean oil and the rope was almost black to the lower end.That was probably about 1950. He then put the clear motor oil back into his tractor.

Best of my knowledge the thinnest oil available is kerosene.  Neatsfoot oil is thicker than air tool oil, I used neatsfoot on my saddles it is not meant to be a lubricant but a preservative.

Edited by rayin

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4 hours ago, huffypuff said:

3-IN-1 

Assuming you mean 3-in-1oil, it comes in various formulation. The most common one out there contains an ingredient which can be problematic. Not sure what the specific ingredient is, but when I used to restore antique sewing machines you could always tell if a previous owner used 3-in-1 oil as it turned to a varnish-like substance and effectively glues parts together when they sit for too long.

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Air tool oil is what I'm hearing a lot for this. Most air tool oil I'm seeing is 10w mineral oil. I guess it would work.

Take a look at note #2 on this PDF. It's from an old military technical bulletin and talks about using either Shutterstat fluid OR a mixture of 1 part 10w oil and 4 parts dry cleaning fluid. I've heard that Shutterstat fluid had some penetrating oil qualities, so for me part of this is trying to learn what it was and why it was. Since this document calls for thinning out the 10w oil that much with dry cleaning fluid, I'm trying to learn why.

Shutterstat.jpg

Edited by richard5933

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4 hours ago, richard5933 said:

Assuming you mean 3-in-1oil, it comes in various formulation. The most common one out there contains an ingredient which can be problematic. Not sure what the specific ingredient is, but when I used to restore antique sewing machines you could always tell if a previous owner used 3-in-1 oil as it turned to a varnish-like substance and effectively glues parts together when they sit for too long.

3-IN-1 does 3 things, cleans, lubricates, and protects in 1 product as per its name.  

 

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Ford Focus and Ram truck use a Kysor radiator shutter. Don't know more though, probably electric today.

Edited by rayin

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Sewing machine oil or Shredder lube oil?

shutterstat oil, PAG 100 by Kysor-Kysor. 219785 is the part number, located in Cadillac, MI.

 

Edited by manholt

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3 hours ago, manholt said:

Sewing machine oil or Shredder lube oil?

shutterstat oil, PAG 100 by Kysor-Kysor. 219785 is the part number, located in Cadillac, MI.

 

Good suggestions. Best I can find on the PAG oil is that it's about 30w in viscosity. Probably too thick for this purpose.

Would love to find some documentation on what Shutterstat Fluid actually was - both viscosity and the makeup of it. Sounds like there was some type of solvent added to help it flow through the wick and to get picked up by the air flow.

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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:

Good suggestions. Best I can find on the PAG oil is that it's about 30w in viscosity. Probably too thick for this purpose.

Would love to find some documentation on what Shutterstat Fluid actually was - both viscosity and the makeup of it. Sounds like there was some type of solvent added to help it flow through the wick and to get picked up by the air flow.

If you have any fresh leftover you could send it to a lab for analysis. Wouldn’t be the most cost effective option. The real issue becomes, how do you duplicate it without a lab? Just mixing other products in the composition might be close enough but could that cause issues? 
In my experience older technology like this are pretty robust, if you locate something similar you’ll probably be ok.

OR

Have the components resealed to modern o-rings which would be more likely to handle what you put in it. Just ask the shop what those seals can tolerate.

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wtbuck12, your about 18 miles from us...if your going to the New Iberia, Fete fair?  We are in space 23 until next Sunday!

Sorry Herman, off subject. :)

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3 hours ago, jleamont said:

If you have any fresh leftover you could send it to a lab for analysis. Wouldn’t be the most cost effective option. The real issue becomes, how do you duplicate it without a lab? Just mixing other products in the composition might be close enough but could that cause issues? 
In my experience older technology like this are pretty robust, if you locate something similar you’ll probably be ok.

OR

Have the components resealed to modern o-rings which would be more likely to handle what you put in it. Just ask the shop what those seals can tolerate.

If I could find some of the fluid, even just a little, I could run some tests on my own.

The concerns I have are:

  • Proper viscosity
  • Ability to wick through the oiler and be picked up by the air flow
  • Compatibility with rubber & leather components.

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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:

If I could find some of the fluid, even just a little, I could run some tests on my own.

The concerns I have are:

  • Proper viscosity
  • Ability to wick through the oiler and be picked up by the air flow
  • Compatibility with rubber & leather components.

Seriously? I sent you a link above with some for sale.

Bill

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