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Wvanhemert

Cat power loss in safari class a

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Hello new member, we have a class a with a cat Allison diesel pusher combo

I have read most of the forum cat power loss messages and they seem close just not exactly the same as what is happening to us

Over all the engine and tranny run really well, however this year while we were heading on a camping trip at the 3 hr mark at hwy speeds, we got a check engine light and noticed she was a bit warm above the 190 mark, took foot out of it, the light went out but then following that we had intermittent power issues like it is limp mode, the turbo doesn't produce boost like normal 

Found rad was filthy so cleaned it we thought really well and took another trip and again at about the 3 hr mark same loss of power and it wasn't near as warm, parked at campsite, didn't notice big heat issues, then drove back again at the 3 hr mark started again, drove 30 more minutes home, and noticed rad area was really hot, so waited for it to cool down a bit and cleaned it really well this time 

The interesting thing is when it loses power if we stop turn it off wait a few minutes and restart motor it runs great again for and a varying amount of time, rinse and repeat

 

Any ideas where to start? 

New filters all around start of this season, oil change this season, rad level ok, tranny level ok, tranny and motor serviced 10k ago, at cat dealer by previous owner, have documents 

110k miles

Edited by Wvanhemert

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Sounds like the turbo waste gate is sticking open or possibly the turbo itself is going bad. Maybe a leak in one of the turbo lines. There have been people in other forums  with issues with turbo hoses popping off and losing power

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Size and age off your CAT?  10+k or once a year for service is norm, whatever comes first.  What did they replace at service besides oil in engine?

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Thanks both for feedback, first I have reached out to several cat specific shops near me and they all are quoting me over a month before they can get me in so having a look for myself first,

sstgermain because it works fine for 3 hours of hwy driving then fails and if we shutdown for a day and restart it goes another 3 hours with no problems, I can't see it being a leaking hose but I did a thorough look and all clamps, hoses are tight and I can not see any visible leak locations, I will check again however

Turbo is possible I guess however why when we turn off and restart right away it works just fine for sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes longer, a mechanical failure doesn't make sense to me under those circumstances 

Waste gate is again possible I will check that it isn't sticking 

After some more reading I'm leaning towards a sensor like atmospheric or turbo boost, but appreciate. More feed back

As to the service two years ago, they checked hoses, general overview, adjusted, checked valves, changed oil and all filters, fixed an oil leak on valve cover,  changed belts, that is everything I see

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1 hour ago, Wvanhemert said:

Adding motor is a 96 and is a 3126 - 300hp

Wounding if you Cleaned the CAC when you cleaned The radiator? Also, is the radiator and CAC rear  mounted.

Have you checked the exhaust manifold for any cracks or bad head to Exhaust gaskets ? 

When was the engine Thermostat changed last?

How many miles on the Coach?

Have you checked the Turbo actuator for any damage ?

Rich.

 

Edited by dickandlois

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How is your oil pressure when this happens as you will have a Heui system 

and depends on good oil 

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1 hour ago, dickandlois said:

Wounding if you Cleaned the CAC when you cleaned The radiator? Also, is the radiator and CAC rear  mounted.

Have you checked the exhaust manifold for any cracks or bad head to Exhaust gaskets ? 

When was the engine Thermostat changed last?

How many miles on the Coach?

Have you checked the Turbo actuator for any damage ?

Rich.

 

Didn't clean the Cac will check it today

Head and exhaust look good viewed while running 

Turbo actuator do you mean wastgate, visibly looks good will inspect it for movement today

Radiator is rear mounted, not sure on Cac, will update 

110k miles

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1 hour ago, bm02tj said:

That sounds to high  what is your hot idle pressure at 

At cold start it runs about 75 to 80 lbs, at warm operating tenps fast idle it is about 65 to 70 lbs, and running down the road it runs about 75 to 80 lbs, has for the 10k we have owned it and had an oil analysis done this spring and nothing was out of sorts 

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2 hours ago, Wvanhemert said:

Didn't clean the Cac will check it today

Head and exhaust look good viewed while running 

Turbo actuator do you mean wastgate, visibly looks good will inspect it for movement today

Radiator is rear mounted, not sure on Cac, will update 

110k miles

Cac is sandwiched with radiator just did flashlight test could see through entire rad now

The wastgate seems to operate with no sticking at all

I'm beginning to wonder if it was purely  heat related but I don't know till I can get it on a scanner 

Is there software I can buy that will aloow me to review the data, used lota of different stuff on Cummins and duramax engines? 

Edited by Wvanhemert

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You can get a Blue Fire adapter to plug into your OBD connector and run an app on a cell phone or tablet to tell you what is going on. I had an issue with my Cummins ISL and it told me what was wrong. My crankcase pressure was high due to my crankcase preacher filter needing to be replaced. You can purchase the adapter on amazon.

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10 minutes ago, sstgermain said:

You can get a Blue Fire adapter to plug into your OBD connector and run an app on a cell phone or tablet to tell you what is going on. I had an issue with my Cummins ISL and it told me what was wrong. My crankcase pressure was high due to my crankcase preacher filter needing to be replaced. You can purchase the adapter on amazon.

Thanks but I think I need something different I don't have an odb connector I have a six wire CAT connector for diagnostics but I will look it up online and see if it will work 

 

I have to apologize for my earlier comment looks iike it might work 

Edited by Wvanhemert

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No apology needed

 

I was just referring to OBD generically. https://www.amazon.com/BlueFire-Bluetooth-Adapter-Motorhomes-Supports/dp/B01CS1HUXI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2OHU814ENNDHO&dchild=1&keywords=bluefire+for+motorhomes&qid=1629147650&sprefix=bluefire%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1

 

 

Get the 6 pin to 9 pin adapter cable to go with it.

Edited by sstgermain

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1 hour ago, sstgermain said:

They actually don't make that adapter anymore I have an email into them about it

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18 hours ago, Wvanhemert said:

Didn't clean the Cac will check it today

Head and exhaust look good viewed while running 

Turbo actuator do you mean wastgate, visibly looks good will inspect it for movement today

Radiator is rear mounted, not sure on Cac, will update 

110k miles

Need to ask another question.

Have you checked the Engine fan clutch assembly, is working properly. They do go bad over time and with the mileage, it could be an issue ,with it not engaging when it gets hot. 

Think checking the CAC would be a good step as it is mounted between the fan and the radiator and it could be plugged up with junk  and that can cause issues with the engines high temperature issue.

Note! The CAC should be cleaned each year along with the radiator. It is a lot easier to clean them more often the the cost of replacing them. The best way is to have the shop steam clean as doing the job wrong can damage the fines on the stack. 

Rich.

Welcome to the  Diesel RV owners Club!

Edited by dickandlois

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Spray commercial grade Simple Green on and let sit 15 minutes, then rinse with water from garden house...use a soft bristle brush on blades.

Welcome to the DROC. 

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1 hour ago, manholt said:

Spray commercial grade Simple Green on and let sit 15 minutes, then rinse with water from garden house...use a soft bristle brush on blades.

Welcome to the DROC. 

Commercial Grade simple green has been my goto for years, I don't think I realized how quickly these radiators get dirty, I use to clean my vehicles once a year, but this pusher gets dirty every trip out as we tend to drive a lot of gravel roads

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1 hour ago, dickandlois said:

Need to ask another question.

Have you checked the Engine fan clutch assembly, is working properly. They do go bad over time and with the mileage, it could be an issue ,with it not engaging when it gets hot. 

Think checking the CAC would be a good step as it is mounted between the fan and the radiator and it could be plugged up with junk  and that can cause issues with the engines high temperature issue.

Note! The CAC should be cleaned each year along with the radiator. It is a lot easier to clean them more often the the cost of replacing them. The best way is to have the shop steam clean as doing the job wrong can damage the fines on the stack. 

Rich.

Welcome to the  Diesel RV owners Club!

Yes it seems to be tight, and when it was getting hot we popped the engine cover while driving, carefully and it seemed to be pushing air, I think the radiator just wasn't clean enough now I hope it is.

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Since you have a DP....not a FRED (front engine diesel), stay away from dirt roads of any kind.  Carry and change air filters often!!!  I have a good friend, who has a 150,000 acre Ranch, South of Marfa, Texas....he has to change filter each time he enters or leaves garage, 15 miles from garage to paved road.

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You live and camp in Alaska?  We had that problem a lot in Labrador, Newfoundland, Canada, in Summer of 2019!! :P

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