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Absorption vs. Residential refrigerator

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40 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

But I have seen lock adaptors that work well keeping the doors closed on turns.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/91_fridgefixer.php

This is what I use on mine, was easy to install and works great. The inverter style fridge that I referred to maxes out at 3.2 amps, that includes power while in defrost cycle. after start up and when the fridge has reached it's maximum cold, about four hours, will go down to least AC cycles which is about 1/2 amps and rarely increases to more than 1.2 amps. The above numbers have been verified by a volt/amp reporting meter. I am also running a mini-split air conditioner (inverter style) in my coach, have used it for two summers now, it is very low amperage consumption, when I go out in the early am it is pulling .35 amps (35/100) of an amp rarely ever see it using more than 3.5 amps.

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You are correct.  The unit we have is the RF-18. Which is the 17.5 cu ft Counter-Depth French Door Refrigerator with Ice Maker. They still have this model in their line but Lowe's for example doesn't stock it but can order it with just a few days delivery.

Herman 

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On 8/30/2021 at 6:42 PM, rayin said:

I was replying to f433951's comment about amp-draw; I have a 1999 Norcold that still works great.

Mine is a RF 18, the name plant AMPS is 1.1 A.

 

 

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4 hours ago, f433921 said:

Mine is a RF 18, the name plant AMPS is 1.1 A.

Sounds pretty efficient, but remember that is for 120vac. When you supply juice to it via the inverter it's pulling 11 amps from the 12vdc battery bank. If you have adequate batteries you're okay. Otherwise plan on generator use for extended dry camping.

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We replaced our 8cuft gas/electric refrigerator with a 10cuft Everchill. The Everchill is a 12 volt resident style refrigerator. The problem we ran into is with continuous operation. The temperature of the top shelf would be 27 degrees and the crisper was 52 degrees. After 3 replacements and a manufacturer service technician inspection. They flew him from Indiana to Arizona to do the inspection. I asked for a refund. With the continuous operation at about 4 to 6 weeks. The coil inside would freeze up. This was the 2nd generation models. We went to Best Buy purchased a 10cuft Insignia 120 volt refrigerator. Runs 24/7 for the last year and a half with no issues. We boondock 6 to 8 months out of the year. We have 2000 watts of solar on the roof and 6 - 100 amp hour lithium batteries. We have a video of our solar system on YouTube channel name I Go Where I'm Towed. We will be publishing a video on the Insignia refrigerator soon. 

Edited by classarver

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10 hours ago, classarver said:

We replaced our 8cuft gas/electric refrigerator with a 10cuft Everchill. The Everchill is a 12 volt resident style refrigerator. The problem we ran into is with continuous operation. The temperature of the top shelf would be 27 degrees and the crisper was 52 degrees. After 3 replacements and a manufacturer service technician inspection. They flew him from Indiana to Arizona to do the inspection. I asked for a refund. With the continuous operation at about 4 to 6 weeks. The coil inside would freeze up. This was the 2nd generation models. We went to Best Buy purchased a 10cuft Insignia 120 volt refrigerator. Runs 24/7 for the last year and a half with no issues. We boondock 6 to 8 months out of the year. We have 2000 watts of solar on the roof and 6 - 100 amp hour lithium batteries. We have a video of our solar system on YouTube channel name I Go Where I'm Towed. We will be publishing a video on the Insignia refrigerator soon. 

I have been using a Insignia 10 cu ft bottom freezer for 2 1/2 years with no problem.  Box 38-42 degrees and the freezer -6 to 2 degrees.  6 lithium 100 amp and 800 watt solar on the roof.  Just installed a dc-dc 60 amp charger so the lithiums will get fully charged off the engine alternator.

 

 

 

 

 

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