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fagnaml

Operate Residential Refrigerator While in Storage??

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On the iRV2.com forum, the owner of a 2018 Newmar Dutchstar posted that his residential refrigerator had failed cooling and was asking about how to remove the refrigerator.   Within that long string of comments, one forum member stated that "owners of residential refrigerators turn of the fridge while the coach is in storage for months which is not good.  Residential refrigerators are not designed for infrequent use". 

When putting my coach into storage for weeks, even months at a time, I turn off my residential refrigerator, trip the breaker (so lights in fridge are off) and open the doors to prevent mold from growing.  After reading the comment that "refrigerators are not design for infrequent use" I wonder if my practice of turning off my fridge while in storage.

What is the advice from the forum on shutting off / not shutting off a residential refrigerator while a coach sits in storage?     

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I would contact the manufacturer of the refrigerator 

for their recommendations. 

Edited by desertdeals69

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That is a new one on me. I have never heard that internet truism before. I would definitely use a good Surge Guard  that shuts off power for low voltage or hi voltage. 

When you think about it No refrigerator runs all day long. They run for a little while until they reach the right temperature inside, and then their built-in controllers turn them off. If it is Fairley cold and the compressor doesn't run for several hours is that infrequent use? I am wondering how it would be differed if you shut it off or the control board shuts it off.

I have heard some residential refrigerators don't like anything but "pure sinewave" converters. That along with low voltage can cause "incremental damage" that builds up to where it fails.

Ok I would ask that expert to show me some documented proof that turning your frig off will damage it.

Bill

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I"d like some documented proof also. We always throw the breaker for the refrigerator. Been doing that for years and we have never had a problem. (I'm knocking on wood right now.)

Everything else is left with whatever power it requires.

Edited by wayne77590

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When not using the MH for a while, I unplug the refer and leave the doors open.  It's a Whirlpool and has been fine.

Edited by five

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I gotta throw the BS flag on that call. We are now using a Frigidare brand (approx. 40 years old) in the basement of our house that had sat unplugged for close to 10 years.

Wonder how a new refrigerator still carries a warranty after it was run-tested at the factory, then was unused until it was purchased at retail??

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LOL.     In the  old days, all we had in coaches was 12V/120 and LP, that we had to throw the CB, turn off gas and disconnect at battery....We used to use a block of wood to hold door open.  Biggest problem was to make sure the fridge was level....in the 1960's, 70's and 80's!  Today, I agree with desertdeal69 and Rayin!

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Thanks for the responses!   Seems like general consensus now on FMCA and iRV2 is when in storage, turn the residential type refrigerator off (with breaker off) and open doors to prevent mildew from forming.   I did fail to say in my original post that I have the 21 cu.ft. Whirpool "french doors" refrigerator that thus far has been trouble free!

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On 3/3/2022 at 7:06 PM, fagnaml said:

Thanks for the responses!   Seems like general consensus now on FMCA and iRV2 is when in storage, turn the residential type refrigerator off (with breaker off) and open doors to prevent mildew from forming.   I did fail to say in my original post that I have the 21 cu.ft. Whirpool "french doors" refrigerator that thus far has been trouble free!

Ours has a temperature control knob, all the way down is labeled “off”. I just loosen the light bulb so it’s not on with the doors open. 
2022 is the 8th year with ours trouble free. I will NEVER have an RV with a gas refrigerator again. My DW doesn’t do the “roughing experience” and after one fire we couldn’t sleep with a gas refrigerator. 

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