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gdroke

Brake Lights On Toad

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If using a toad brake system that mechanically moves the brake pedal in the toad, why do you need additional brake lights, and/or a feed from the motorhome?

Does that "seemingly small" amount of electricity usage run the toad battery down, or is there some other reason you don't rely on the brake light system already in the toad and triggered by pedal movement?

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Check your toad, on some the brake lights will not work unless you leave the key in the on position, which you don't want to do.

An easy two minute verification.

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I have independent running, brake & turn lights added inside my rear lights, but also when I activate my aux brakes the vehicles brake lights come on. In my case (a Jeep Grand Cheroke) my key is turned off and removed the brake lights still function on the tow. In the newer tow vehicles it is recommended that you don't tap into the brake light circuit because of the computer systems. By putting another bulb in the rear light housing and wiring it directly to the coach lighting circuit in the wiring harness you avoid computer problems

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gdroke, If you don't have your toad wired you will not have running lights and turn signals.

However you are correct all braking systems apply pressure to the brake pedal and yes your brake lights will activate.

I have learned that the candles I put on the back of my toad always seem to go out the minute I move. :lol: :lol:

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My experience with my mountain brake system is that it doesn't always activate the brake pedal if at a slow speed so the lights would not activate. Better to wire the lights and be safe.

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Check your toad, but I suspect that the brake lights will not work unless you leave the key in the on position, which you don't want to do.

Every car that I have tested with the ignition key off and the key removed, the brake lights still work when the brake pedal is pushed.

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Dwight, I feel your pain, however when Brett said that he suspected that most newer vehicles brake light will not work with the key off, I tested mine. I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado and with the key off, what to my suprise, my brake lights would not, not work. After I thought about it, my old school mind remembered how many times I went and had to jump Start a customers car because the brake light switch was stuck and ran the battery down.

Just my thoughts and I'm sticking to them (as long as it pertains to 2008 Chevrolet Silverados). :rolleyes:

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Herman, I specifically stated cars because pickups may have different federal rules to met. If I were towing with a diesel equipped with a engine or exhaust brake I would want ALL brake lights activated when using the Jake or exhaust brake.

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I wired the new bulb into the housing for my Grand Cherokee, and that all works fine, As I see it, the only way to get the toad brake lights to stop working is to pull the fuse.

I'd rather not do that, if I don't have to. It just seems like that would be an easy thing for me to forget when I unhook, and then I would be driving without brake lights and not know it.

if I leave the fuse in, It will eventually run the toad battery down, but I have no frame of reference for how long I could tow before that would occur. I don't know if it a matter of hours or days or weeks.

Anybody have any idea about the load on the battery doing this? Is a day of towing a negligible draw that is easily charged back up driving to the store at night, or is it a significant draw that jeopardizes the ability to start the car when I unhook? I understand a day of interstate driving and a day of city driving would be two different loads on the battery due to differences in brake usage, but I was hoping to get a general idea of how long anybody else feels like they can tow before drawing the toad battery down too far.

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I cannot tell you what the load is for your brake lights; but with the ignition in accessory position, the load without the lights being on is 1.75-1.80 amps on my Chevy Equinox. I am sure you could look on line to find the current draw for your specific bulbs. But beside the brakes, some coaches have different turn signal lights and at night running lights. These would not work unless you power from the coach. Using diodes seems to have worked best on 4 towed autos I have had. You might check on Roadmaster's web site to review the different wiring methods for the various combinations of coaches and towed autos. They have all the wiring diagrams in full color that you can down load and review, PDF format.

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The brake lights are only on when braking, so it would take a long time to discharge a battery. The other option you might consider is adding a 12 volt wire from the coach to the battery.

Should your coach have a 12 volt circuit at the trailer / toad socket, add a wire running between them.

Connect a diode in the line to prevent a back feed issue. A 6 amp at 50 volt diode should do the job.

The diode end with the band goes to the battery. use a 8 or 10 gauge wire, Red colored wire should be used and will keep the battery fully charged.

When the battery gets to a point due to age that its hard to start the Toad, the circuit described will not carry enough current to charge a battery with a bad cell !

R.M.

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