boguslaw Report post Posted March 31, 2013 I have a pair of these roof mounted units, like most, and the front can deliver a 30 deg temp drop while drawing 11 amps, the rear can only drop the air temp by 10 deg and will only draw 5.2A. I took it to a place and they said I need a new compressor and if so, change out the whole unit. I'm guessing they are right but just wanted a second opinion. It seems odd that it works, partially, but needs a new compressor. Is there a loading valve that isn't operating correctly(it may be integral to the compressor and the prognosis is the same). I had the cover off and it looks brand new so I hate to replace it but if that's the answer.... It's a RV Products model 9024, the low profile with the external fan. Someone please tell me if I should toss this unit for another or if there is a possibility to saving it. Jim Boguslaw Country Coach Tribute 2007 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted March 31, 2013 It maybe low on freon. Did you check the voltage while it was running? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
erniee Report post Posted March 31, 2013 We were looking at the amp draw on a unit just installed on my coach. At full cold- draws the 11 amps, even with the heater. At fan mode- just below 5- your thermostat doesn't seem to be wanting your compressor to engage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted March 31, 2013 We were looking at the amp draw on a unit just installed on my coach. At full cold- draws the 11 amps, even with the heater. At fan mode- just below 5- your thermostat doesn't seem to be wanting your compressor to engage. I would think the compressor is running because there is a temp difference of 10 degrees. If the compressor was not energized the air would be about the same going in as coming out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cwschnepf Report post Posted April 16, 2013 There are alot of factors that affect the temperature drop across a cooling coil. Humidity is the big one. Air fllow is critical and the sheet metal needs to be installed correct and use a sealant tape between the sheet metal joints. Being the refrigerant system has welded connectins I would not expect you to be low on refrigerant. Most coils are designed for a ten or twenty degree drop. The air coming off the condernsor should be twenty degrees above the ambient temperature. That is how old timers use to charge a system. Today charging requires a thermometer and pressure gage. Then you set it up by super heat. I would recommend a second repair shop. Some residential servicemen will service it for you. R.S.E.S. certifications are a good way to sort out serviice men. (Refrigeration Servce Engineers Society) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary1945 Report post Posted April 17, 2013 What is the ballpark cost of replacing a roof unit? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boguslaw Report post Posted May 11, 2013 As a followup, I took it to Premier MotorCoach in Tucson who said it needed a compressor, therefore the whole unit should be replaced as it is not cost effective to replace a compressor. I bought one on line from PPL Motorhomes in Houston for $812 plus $175 shipping and installed it myself in a few hours. I don't know what a motorhome service place would charge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
