Diesel Pusher Air Filter Change

[chrisastream]

I just purchased a new air filter for my Land Yacht 390XL diesel pushermotorhome. This is a Freightliner chassis product. I was told that I could install the filter myself. Has anyone experienced this?

To avoid the risk of the part not being available in Myrtle Beach, where my rig is stored, I bought it at a Freightliner near me in Virginia. Now, either I go to South Carolina to get my rig and install it myself or take it to someone in the area that knows how.

Do you know of anyone in the area of Longs, S.C., or Myrtle Beach that can install this for me?

[Guest Wayne77590]

Welcome to the fourm.

There is a Camping World there in Myrtle Beach. Give them a call. If they don't do it they most likely can tell you who would.

Camping World

3632 Hwy. 501

Myrtle Beach, SC 29579

(800) 845-3571

(843) 236-3511

[chrisastream]

Welcome to the fourm.

There is a Camping World there in Myrtle Beach. Give them a call. If they don't do it they most likely can tell you who would.

Camping World

3632 Hwy. 501

Myrtle Beach, SC 29579

(800) 845-3571

(843) 236-3511

Thank you so much, Wayne. I had called them and they said they didn't do that type work and that they didn't have the filter anyway. They don't keep them in stock. Now that I have the filter, I will call and find out if they are willing. I appreciate your reply. chrisastream

[PIPEWRENCHGRIP]

My previous Motorhome had a Freightliner Chasis. I changed my own, but it was a bit of a hassle. I had to crawl under and over to get to it. Next time I had it done at a truck shop.

Bill

[bobby.osteen@augserv.com]

I plan on doing mine probably this coming week for the first time.....I'll reply with the results........wish me luck !!

[Cruzer]

It's not all that hard. You do have to crawl around a bit to get to it though. Most of the current crop of air filters are sealed canister units. You simply loosen up the two worm drive hose clamps, release the retaining clamps, and drop the old filter out. I find that the spring loaded retaining clamps can be stiff to move so when they finally snap over center they can nail your finger so gloves is a good idea. Once the hose clamps are loose, stick a screwdriver in the hose to unstick it from the metal tubing. Then drop the unit out.

To reinstall it helps to spray a bit of silicone inside the hoses and they'll slip over the tubing much easier. Once you have it installed it's a good idea to reset the filter restriction indicator and run the engine. Be sure to rev it up to full RPM for a while to maximize airflow through the filter. Then shut it down and go back to check the vacuum reading on the air filter restriction indicator. Air filters are designed to be replaced when the restriction in them exceeds 15" of vacuum. But, every system will have a given restriction with a new filter installed. This will vary from coach to coach. You need to add 15" to that baseline. In my case my baseline is 6" of vacuum with a new filter. So, when my indicator reaches 21" (15 + 6 = 21) it's time to change the filter. Most manufactureres also recommend changing the filter every two years regardless of it's condition. That's because the paper filter element gets weal after a while. Running humid air through the filter hastens thiis while dry air lengthens the life of the filter so manufacturers just average it out at a 2 year recommendation. If the paper element fails you'll suck dirt into the engine that will get very expensive so being cheap at this time is not a good idea.

[wolfe10]

It's not all that hard. You do have to crawl around a bit to get to it though. Most of the current crop of air filters are sealed canister units. You simply loosen up the two worm drive hose clamps, release the retaining clamps, and drop the old filter out. I find that the spring loaded retaining clamps can be stiff to move so when they finally snap over center they can nail your finger so gloves is a good idea. Once the hose clamps are loose, stick a screwdriver in the hose to unstick it from the metal tubing. Then drop the unit out.

To reinstall it helps to spray a bit of silicone inside the hoses and they'll slip over the tubing much easier. Once you have it installed it's a good idea to reset the filter restriction indicator and run the engine. Be sure to rev it up to full RPM for a while to maximize airflow through the filter. Then shut it down and go back to check the vacuum reading on the air filter restriction indicator. Air filters are designed to be replaced when the restriction in them exceeds 15" of vacuum. But, every system will have a given restriction with a new filter installed. This will vary from coach to coach. You need to add 15" to that baseline. In my case my baseline is 6" of vacuum with a new filter. So, when my indicator reaches 21" (15 + 6 = 21) it's time to change the filter. Most manufactureres also recommend changing the filter every two years regardless of it's condition. That's because the paper filter element gets weal after a while. Running humid air through the filter hastens this while dry air lengthens the life of the filter so manufacturers just average it out at a 2 year recommendation. If the paper element fails you'll suck dirt into the engine that will get very expensive so being cheap at this time is not a good idea.

Mark,

A good write-up.

I would differ on a couple of points. It is unlikely that you can rev the engine in neutral and see maximum air filter restriction. Max air flow is at high RPM (which you could do in neutral) but also with the turbo fully spooled up for long enough to draw maximum vacuum in the pre-turbo intake. In neutral, the turbo will START to spool up, but the engine will reach max RPM well before max boost is sustained long enough to give an accurate reading.

BETTER, is to drive it (including one zero to 60 at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and THEN record new air filter restriction reading. As you point out, having a baseline reading is a REALLY GOOD IDEA.

And remember, the air filter minder reads TOTAL system restriction-- could be the opening in the side of the coach is too small, hose from there to air filter has too many bends in it and is corrugated, the air filter itself is too small and hose from filter to turbo restrictive. So, with more restrictive systems one will not be able to experience a 15" WC increase in restriction from baseline without exceeding the engine manufacturer's max specification.

Reality-- if you replace your air filter every 3 years, unless you live in a really dusty environment/drive dirt roads, you SHOULD be OK. And absolutely, moisture and time break down air filter elements-- they are made of paper. So replacing based on time IS highly recommended.

And if your system does show restriction with a new filter, don't hesitate to improve it! Many chassis are shipped to coach makers with a long corrugated hose to go from filter to side of coach. In many cases the coach builder mounts the air intake on the side of the coach such that hose is WAY longer than it needs to be and cutting a foot or more from the hose gives better air flow. Costs nothing, but gives more air. And you can not get too much air to a diesel.

Brett Wolfe

[allanp]

I've got an older Coachmen Destiny and changed its air filter within 1/2 hour. It's easily accessible under the master bed and once cleaned (rag wipe and vacumed) it's easy to remove using only a screw driver. The filter was expensive because I wanted it RIGHT NOW but search the Internet for better prices. Any shop will charge 1 hour minimum at close to $100/hr - DIY - GO FOR IT!