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SuperNewb

Help! It Sounds Like Chinese - Thor Daybreak 34bd - Newby

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I am as lost as a "redneck dropped in the middle of China". I can tell you story why I bought an RV - but maybe later. I bought my RV -class A, gas v-10 Ford, (2) AC's and bunks for my son. One for him and the other for for all his gaming stuff.

I was told what to push, when to pull, where to connect and I made a check list to do just that. NOW,,,,,,,, I felt like i was getting the hang of it when I started noticing things.

If I wanted to be cool - before dropping anchor I had to kill the AC's, then the Gennie, Then connect Shore power, then I could turn the cool back on ( OR the reverse IF we were Leaving) I think an Auto changer switch for SEAMLESS power switching and to keep the cool going - IS THIS Right? I'm asking is this right here to all the pros!!!!!

Second - I have Dometic RV refer. I wanted to get a residential refer in there but is that a big deal? I am handy with tools but never done this. I'v seen other folks try this online and they talk about air vent, ice maker lines, securing it so stays in place, dedicated inverters, What do I Do???????????

DO I buy new batteries or more batteries?

DO I buy a pure sine wave inverter-- just for the refrigerator or if I'm buying should it be for the whole coach?

I'll say I love my RV but its not a high dollar one where alot of the "bells and whistles" are already on there. It sounds like a lot of questions but if I know the first step I could then move on to the next step.

Right now i have 110v outlets that don't run with out gennie or shore power, A refer I don't care for but 50f coke is better than 85f coke. I don't have enough batteries I know but I can get more but want to get off to a good start.

My dream world is to be able to run off grid efficiently as possible and have enough batteries to do it; have solar panels on board; have enough batteries and inverters to run a residential frig and the 110v outlets

BY the way does anyone where to get a sofa bed mattress with or without air coils so i don't have to feel the bars?

I See all you guys and Ladies with so much knowledge I know you can help with some "Experienced pro advice". If not then thanks anyway. Happy Trails

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Do you have the Owners Manual for you Coach ?

You posted the model as a Daybreak 34DB.

Need some more information about the coach to get a starting point on how it is equipped. So if you could post the Model Year of the coach that would help.

Rich.

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SuperNewb,

First welcome to the Forum and to Rving. Also thank you for being a good Dad and providing life long memories for your son.

You might start by googling Thor Daybreak. There may be a site where other owners have some of your same question and what answers they received.

Most all of us have learned about our coaches from the University of Hard Knots. However here on the Forum we all will share our experiences. You have a lot of question, so might I suggest that you start with one question at a time. A post asking about the inverter, another about the bed and so forth. Specific questions will get you answers where bulk questions might get over looked.

Good Luck,

Herman

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Supernewb,

Welcome to the forum, and like Herman said.

One at a time will get you more answers. But here are some thoughts on a residential fridge, begin with the measurements of openings getting the fridge into your coach. Then start the shopping process, I have a 20 ft. res fridge in my coach, but the process was not too easy, as I stated, I had to know how to install it. My fridge is 32 inches wide, 69 high, and 30 thick, those measurements cant possibly go through a standard RV door, but my windows are large enough to allow. I then shopped for the lowest total draw of electrical current, this can be found on the inside of a new refer., mine is a Samsung which was certified at 3.9 amps max., and will run on a modified sine wave inverter, which can be bought for a fraction of the cost of a pure sine wave inverter. Pure is better for some appliances, but not necessary for all, ie., you might want to think modified for some items, and pure for others. They can be supplied from batteries that are shared from both inverters. I will never go back to the RV style absorption refer again.

Happy trails, Kay

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If I wanted to be cool - before dropping anchor I had to kill the AC's, then the Gennie, Then connect Shore power, then I could turn the cool back on ( OR the reverse IF we were Leaving) I think an Auto changer switch for SEAMLESS power switching and to keep the cool going - IS THIS Right? I'm asking is this right here to all the pros!!!!!

Seamless? No. While an automatic transfer switch is designed to automatically switch over between shore and generator power, it is not designed to do it while under a heavy load, like air conditioning. If under load when switching, the contacts can arc, resulting in burned contacts that don't make a connection, or welded contacts that won't break a connection.

The auto transfer switch does make life easier. But the process is going to be pretty much what you describe: you will still want to turn off the A/C and other heavy loads before starting or stopping the generator and plugging or unplugging shore power.

If you don't have a transfer switch now, I'm guessing you have an outlet that is powered by the generator, and you plug your shore cord into that? Getting an automatic transfer switch will save you the effort of having to do that part.

BY the way does anyone where to get a sofa bed mattress with or without air coils so i don't have to feel the bars?

I just bought this one: AirDream SofaBed Mattress

It replaces a virtually identical and rather comfortable mattress that came with the sofa bed, and finally after seven years was replaced because the air portion started leaking significantly (resisting my patch attempts) and the springs were starting to sag. Hopefully this one will perform as well as the old one (haven't slept on it yet.)

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