Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
max24j

2008 Diesel Sprinter- No Start-Just Clicks

Recommended Posts

This is an ongoing problem since 2008 when I purchased this rig new. Of course Dodge (sprinter) could not find a problem -even though it happened in the lot when I went to leave the dealership. Mercedes (sprinter) said there is no problem and they had it for half a day. I told them that other people are having the same problem with a click only at start up. I told them to look it up and they of course said they had no knowledge of any problems in the world about this. IMAGINE THAT.

It could start first time or I have had to go thru the start up procedures anywhere from 4-25 times-- very unreliable rig. There are 10 thousand miles on it. Brand new battery w/ 1000 cca, wired in additional hd solenoid to increase voltage/amps to solenoid on starter.

Any suggestions before I get stranded or in a serious blocking condition.

Thanks for any reply max archer f245582

I bought this Winnebago for it's reliability and Mercedes quality. Not quite up to standards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When the starter just clicks without cranking it is usually a bad starter. If access to the starter is ok, trying banging on it when it does it again and if it comes to life you found the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Max24 j,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum!

Could you disconnect the negative ground cable at the battery and then after about 20 seconds reconnect it and see if it starts? Post if it starts or not. If it does, try it a few times, if it keeps starting; post that information

.

This is just a test to confirm a thought regarding a possible problem.

Should it work and then not start again try the same thing again.

Thinking there is a possible grounding issue. The real trick is to find what module or point between the engine and the battery ground terminal is causing the issue.

Ray's and DD's thoughts a veiled.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

X2 on huffypuff solution. High spot on starter? Carry a hammer with you and try the old "whackadoo" on the starter the next time it acts up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planocat, I would agree, but this has been an ongoing issue from the day this coach was new and appears to be an issue with a number of this style Chassis.

Have found some information posted, by some owners that have not had any starting issues.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If this has been an ongoing problem since day one, I hope that you have kept records as to how many complaints have been documented to the dealer, and Mercedes Benz. I don't have any idea what state you are in, and or, what state it was bought in. I would certainly check the lemon laws of that state, and would pursue from that angle if possible. In Alabama it is four complaints in a one year timeframe, but all states have their own guidelines. With only 10,000 miles, i'm sure that it is outside manufacture timeframe, but a call to Mercedes hotline every time it happens, should get some attention.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kay, Thanks for your personal message. Think you should post the information link for all sprinter owners.

Owners would have no clue to the way this system is wired and mechanics are not well schooled in a starter circuit this complicated.

I can only say, This is Nuts-World gone Crazy !!!!

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the process of elimination if the starter clicks it getting power to the solenoid so banging on is worth a try. New don't always mean good. I had a older Nissan in my shop where the starter would only clicks intermittently. New starter came back after a while. Had new batteries installed by customers. I redid all connection and that didn't solve problem. New ground and positive cable didn't fix it. I banged on the starter with no result. Finally replace starter again and no more problem since. You may never know until replacing the starter. My google search shows many Sprinters with no start problems but not starter clicks with no cranking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray, The question is that there appears to be hundreds of them with the same problem and changing the Starters, solenoids and other mechanical parts is not solving there problem.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The OP need to find out if the clicking is from the starter itself or if the clicking is another relay. Work from the starter back to ignition switch. You will need a wiring diagram for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray, I understand, but the thing that stands out to me is there appears to be more then just one trouble spot; just because of the degree of complication built into the circuit.

Max, was the clicking sound at the starter or was it under the drivers seat?

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many things come into play as mentioned above, and I agree with Ray, determine is the clicking from the starter or another relay. The link that Rich posted is very informative, and may or may not the same issue. As Rich mentioned, the circuit is very complicated, I have also had issues when I was a diesel mechanic, "forty years ago", that was nothing short of a battery just too small for the job, to finding a misaligned, or warped flywheel. The latter actually causing slightly bent shaft on the starter, but most newer starters, especially on Chrysler products are gear driven, which the Sprinter was a Dodge design and while Mercedes owned Chrylser, took that design on and renamed it Mercedes. All are tidbits, and may or may not be revelant to the OP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just solved another electrical problem that had others stumped by simple following a wiring diagram yesterday. 2004 Ford F-150 pickup HVAC blower motor not working. There were several relays and computers and modules and switches to test. I checked for ground to the blower motor and good. That proves the switch, the resistor as well as the body ground was good. Check for positive power to the blower motor and there was none. Check fuses then relays and found fuses good but relay not working. Found relay was lacking a ground and grounded that terminal and blower motor came on. Look at wire diagram again and found orange wire supplied ground to relay when mode switch is on any selection except off. Replace that module in dash today and problem is solved.

How is this relevant? This would be the same way to check problems with starter as I did with the above Nissan. I knew the interlock system wasn't the problem as I got power to the s (start) terminal. That mean that the two relays and it's connection were good. So I can focus on the starter and or connection at the starter. Took two starters to cure it and I hate when that happens but it does. This one was so intermittent that it would start 20 times before it failed. Both starters, go figure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray, I understand, but the thing that stands out to me is there appears to be more then just one trouble spot; just because of the degree of complication built into the circuit.

Max, was the clicking sound at the starter or was it under the drivers seat?

Rich.

The click is at the solenoid on starter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK if the solenoid clicks you now know that the s terminal is getting power and you have some ground. If you can put a test light on the output of the solenoid you should see the test light lit dim possible bad started. If the test light is bright possible bad ground. First go over all connection at starter to be sure even if it's been done before. The process of elimination is key here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Max, that eliminates a lot of connections and Ray gave you some good information.

Grounds are key, but you might want to check the positive connections also. Remember to remove the ground connection on the chassis battery(s).

There are a few tricks I use, using long jumper cables.

Not knowing your skills around cars and RV's I do not want you to get hurt.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...